Makalu, Indonesian Attempt. Our expedition attempted the normal northwest ridge. The climbers were Irawan Ari Muladi, Bambang Setio Reharjo, Tumbur H.P. Nainggolan, Iskandar, Dedi Agus Indra Setiawan, Rachmat Ruk mantara and I as leader. We left K...
Condoriri and Other Peaks, Cordillera Real. Our party consisted of Richard and Lisa Hechtel, Donald and Winifred Morton, Alan Waterman, Les Wilson and me. On July 3 we all climbed Chacaltaya (17,650 feet) and on July 6 we all climbed Khalla Cruz (...
Mount Kenya, Diamond Buttress, 1991. A probable new route on the 500-meter-high rocky south face of Batian, the highest summit of Mount Kenya, was climbed on December 19, 1991 by Bulgarians Ivan Maslarov and NikolaiPetkov. They ascended a 15-pitch...
Peaks in the Fanskiye Gory, Tajikistan. Three Bulgarians, Nikolai Velikov, Kiril Rusev and K. Krumov climbed in August and September in the Fanskiye Gory, where they climbed four summits: Alaudin (4200 meters, 13,780 feet), Zamok (5070 meters, 16,...
Philip Smith Mountains. A striking 6,400-plus foot massif rises prominently three miles to the north of Porcupine Lake out of the upland tundra fields. George Budenbender, Katy Elwyn and I were able to attain the summit from the south face by trav...
Southwestern Colorado was again the center of considerable climbing activity as well as the location of the first work of the San Juan Mountaineers Geological Survey. The Sneffels section was that covered by the survey (yet incomplete). An interes...
Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face. Hans Petter Aas, Ole Mentzoni, Morten Ros trup, Harold Braendshøi and I arrived at the Diamir Base Camp on July 10 after four days of dealing with 50 porters, heavy rucksacks and a hot, dry desert. After four more days, ...
HIT BY AVALANCHE—British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Fisher Peak. Chris Sadleir and Bob Bauman (23) and Mavis Bauman were approaching the summit of Fisher Peak on June 6, 1976, when a warm front engulfed the mountain and raised the air temperature ...
To the Very SummitSilvia Metzeltin Buscaini, Club Alpino ItalianoAS MOUNTAIN CLIMBING develops, more and more ethical questions arise nowadays in the mountaineering world. Having become a mass sport, climbing has shoved aside or changed earlier st...
Chopicaliqui, West Face; Yerupaja Sur, West Face; Yerupaja Grande, Ascent and Tragedy. It was reported that Germans Mario Witte and Falk Liebstein climbed two difficult routes in the Andes. First the team summited Chopicaliqui (6345 m). It took Li...
Everest: 50 Years on Top of the World, The Official History. George Band. New York: Barnes & Noble, 2003. (In association with the Mount Everest Foundation, the Royal Geographical Society, and the Alpine Club, London.) 256 pages. Hardcover. $1...
The Climbers—A History of Mountaineering. Chris Bonington. BBC Books and Hodder & Stoughton, London, 1992. 288 pages, 40 color photographs, 102 black-and-white photographs, maps and diagrams. £16.95.Chris Bonington is well acquainted with the ...
Athahra Saya Khola Himal (Mountain of 1,800 Rivers) is a bizarre name, one that evokes the feeling of a faraway place, a mythical wonderland of Buddhist culture, exotic. This is the name we gave to a previously unclimbed 6,767m summit on the Tibet...
FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONCalifornia, Yosemite, Lembert DomeI climbed a 5.9 variant of a 5.6 route. I went over the crux successfully, but ran out too far right on 5.6 slope. I place two nuts in...
Mt. Woodrow Wilson. A new ascent of this peak was made by Hans Kraus, Roger Wolcott and C. Harrison Snyder on 20 August 1946. The ascent was by way of the sheer S. face (central rib) from a camp on Upper Titcomb Lake. The climb was reported as a d...
Mount McKinley, Wickersham Wall, Canadian Route Variation. In late May Tim Gage, 17-year-old Markus Hutnak and I returned to attempt McKinley’s Wickersham Wall. We were successful in climbing a new variation of the Canadian route (A.A.J., 1964, pa...
Sometimes a scene remains indelibly imprinted on one’s mind. On April 5, 2002 I came across such a scene. I was in central China, cresting a 4,500-meter col (in a bus!) when a range of spiky mountains became visible. They were impressive enough fo...
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPEDAlaska, Mt. McKinleyThe four-member “Savoyards” Climbing expedition (a group from France) registered in the spring of 1980 to make a traverse of Mount McKinley—ascending the West Buttress route and descending the Muld...
Mt. Russell, North Ridge. On March 2-7, Colby Coombs, Caitlin Palmer, Meg Perdue and I flew to Mt. Russell in the Alaska Range. Colby, Meg and I made the sixth ascent of Mt. Russell, the fourth ascent of the North Ridge, and the second ascent in w...
Washington, summary of activity. [Note: In addition to mention in this summary, several of the bigger routes have individual reports, below—Ed.] The Cascades saw a fairly typical year of new route activity, with notable winter ascents, ski descent...