Bhagirathi I, West Ridge. Two separate New Zealand expeditions climbed in the Gangotri region. Geoff Gabites, Mark Gabites, Dave Stephenson and I reached the summit of Bhagirathi I (6856 meters, 22,493 feet) alpine-style via the west ridge on Sept...

AVALANCHEWashington, Mount Rainier, Ingraham GlacierOn October 24, climbers Aaron Koester and Matt Little contemplated a summit ascent from their high camp at Cadaver Gap, but due to a late start the pair instead decided to train and explore and t...

Tsaranoro, various climbs and new routes. Dave Kenyon and I arrived at Camp Catta on September 19. Our first three days were spent repeating the excellent existing routes, Alien II (350m 6b), Croix du Sud (300m 6b+), and Pectorine (250m 6b/A0) on ...

Makalu’s West Pillar. Kitty Calhoun Grissom’s article on this first female ascent of Makalu appears earlier in this volume.Makalu. The Japanese Research Center of High Mountains organized a lightweight expedition composed of leader Dr. Makoto Hara...

Hand of Fatima, first complete link-up (in a day). From mid November to mid December, I had the extreme pleasure of being part of a North Face–sponsored expedition during which we explored the surreal sub-Saharan dream-world of Mali as we ventured...

Condoriri and Huayna Potosí, Cordillera Real. Our expedition, Dr. Rudolf Fürst and his wife Dorothee, my wife Else and I, drove on July 4 to Tuni Lake and continued up the Condoriri valley to camp at Khauan Khota (lake) at 14,600 feet. Next day we...

100th Anniversary of the Planinska zveza Slovenije. The American Alpine Club congratulates the Planinska zveza Slovenije (the Slovene Alpine Club) on the 100th Anniversary of its founding. Slovene mountaineering has a long history. The first ascen...

FALL INTO CREVASSE—SNOW BRIDGE COLLAPSEWashington, Mount RainierOn August 27, 1989, around 0830, Park Ranger Nina Burnell (26) and her climbing partner Mark Ross (28) were descending the Disappointment Cleaver Route from the summit of Mount Rainie...

Annapurna IV Attempts. Two French expeditions were unable to reach the summit of Annapurna IV (7525 meters, 24,688 feet). A group of twelve led by Hervé Thivièrge reached 6600 meters on October 13. Ten climbers under the leadership of Bernard Clém...

PARTY SEPARATED ON SUMMIT – WHITEOUTWashington, Mount RainierOn May 4th, two climbers left Paradise at 9:00 p.m. with the intention of doing a single-push summit climb and skiing back down the mountain via Fuhrers Thumb. In the afternoon, the park...

Mount Thor, Southwest Face and Ridge. On August 2, Claude Berubé, François-Guy Thivièrge and I climbed the southwest face of Thor to the saddle of the summit ridge and up the summit ridge to the top (5.9, A2, 40 pitches). The rock was very solid w...

FALL ON ICE, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, CLIMBING UNROPEDWashington, North Cascades, Glacier PeakOn June 30, 1991, elated veteran mountaineer Steve Studley (27) stood above the clouds at the 10,568-foot summit of Glacier Peak in the North Cascades Moun...

Ak-Su, Pamir-Alay. From June 28 to July 21, fifteen Yugoslavs from various parts of the country led by Lazar Popara of Vojvodina climbed in the Ak-Su area of the Turkestan Range, one of the most difficult climbing regions in the USSR. Wild and har...

A Swiss expedition was active in the Himalayas this summer (1939). A small party consisting of André Roch and Ernst Huber with the guides Fritz Steuri and David Zogg made several noteworthy climbs in Garhwal and surveyed the mountains around the K...

Whitesides, Three Routes in a Day. On the 800-foot cliffband Whitesides, Jim Corbett and David Young climbed three routes on the formation in a single day. The pair climbed Traditions (5.11c/d), Perversions (5.11R), and the Original Route (5.11a) ...

FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED, WEATHER— PROBABLYCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Sentinel RockOn May 29, 1993, the body of Derek Hersey (36) was found on the second class ledges at the start of the Chouinard/Herbert route, at the bottom of ...

The Teton National Park Museum at Jenny Lake has recently obtained a number of original paintings of Thomas Moran, whose pictures helped to make the Yellowstone known to the nation when it was but little more than a name.

Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face. Our expedition was made up of Dr. Mariano Arrazola, Eduardo Martínez de Pisón, Jorge Palacios, Angel Sánchez, Pedro Manuel Nicolás and me as leader. We climbed the Diamir Face. We established Base Camp and Camps I, II an...

FALLING ROCK—British Columbia, Bugaboo Range, West Buttress of South Howser Tower. Thom Nephew (26) was prospecting the ridge approach to the West buttress of South Howser Tower at about 1330 hours on August 16, 1975, for an intended climb. He tou...

Langtang Lining. An expedition of four Spanish Catalans climbed Lang- tang Lirung (7234, 23,734 feet) by the southwest face. On October 7, the leader Carles González de Agustín, Manuel Miranda and Eduardo Sanchez got to the summit.Elizabeth Hawley