Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Condoriri and Huayna Potosí, Cordillera Real

Ananea. We arrived on August 7 from Juliaca at Putina by truck and proceeded the next day on foot to Base Camp above Rinconada at Laguna de los Muertos at 16,850 feet. On the ninth all 13 of us climbed easy Punta Rinconada (17,225 feet). After an ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Europe, France, Aiguille des Pélerins, North Face

Aiguille des Pèlerins, North Face. On April 21 and 22, Briton Andy Parkin and I climbed a new route on the north face of the Aiguille des Pèlerins (3318 meters, 10,887 feet). We climbed directly to the Col des Pèlerins and began about halfway betw...


Accident Reports ANAM
Weather, Fatigue, Failure to Follow Route, Fall or Slip on Rock, Washington, Mixup Peak

WEATHER, FATIGUE, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, FALL OR SLIP ON ROCKWashington, Mixup PeakOn August 18, 1989, Tim Backman (30) and David Newton (36) ascended Mixup Peak in North Cascades National Park. They began the climb in fog from Gun Sight Notch. ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna II Attempt

Annapurna II Attempt. An American group of six led by Steven Brimmer attempted to climb the north face of Annapurna II (7937 meters, 26,041 feet). On October 10, they reached a high point of 7200 meters.Elizabeth Hawley


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall into Crevasse, Washington, Mount Rainier, Enroute to Wilson Headwall

FALL INTO CREVASSEWashington, Mount Rainier, enroute to Wilson HeadwallOn the morning of May 4th, three climbers left Camp Muir, following a gentle downhill traverse to reach the base of the Wilson Headwall. About ten minutes out from the camp, th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Arctic, Nunavut, "Sukaq Nasaq," "Mount Ise" and Attempts on Thor and Menhir

“Sukaq Nasaq,” “Mount Ise” and Attempts on Thor and Menhir. On July 22 and 23, Martin Krauer, Ansgar Haider, Dieter Stopper, Sabine Walter, Michael Roth and I climbed a peak behind Nanna Peak in the first side valley of the Fork Beard Glacier (5.l...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock, No Hard Hat, Washington, Whitehorse Mountain

FALLING ROCK, NO HARD HATWashington, Whitehorse MountainThis is to report a climbing accident that occurred on Whitehorse Mountain on June 9, 1991.1 was the climb leader. Tony Baird was the injured climber. Other climbers were Andy Doppel and Stev...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, USSR, Pik Lenina and Pik Kommunizma Attempts

Pik Lenina and Pik Kommunizma Attempts. In July, David Bregenzer, Richard Goodell, Tim Lemmuchi, Alan Ropp, Fred Ziel and I went to the Soviet Union, hoping to climb the Razdelny route of Pik Lenina and the Borodin route of Pik Kommunizma. After o...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Guatemala, Tajumulco and Picaya

We climbed two volcanoes, Tajumulco (13,810 ft.) and Picaya (9000 ft.), the latter semi-active, both easy climbs. One rides a mule to within a few hundred feet of the top of each and walks the rest of the way. Tajumulco is the highest mountain in ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, New York, Adirondack Mountains, Various Ice Ascents

Adirondack Mountains, Various Ice Ascents. Two hard mixed climbs were established at Poke- O-Moonshine in the Adirondack Mountains. Jeff Lowe put up Gorillas in the Mist (M6+). On Jeff’s suggestion, Alex Lowe visited the area with Randy Rackliff. ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock, No Hard Hat, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan

FALLING ROCK, NO HARD HAT California, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn April 11, 1993, around 1100, Mike Fischesser (40ish) and Joe Lackey were ascending fixed ropes to reach their gear on Sickle Ledge (top of pitch #4) on the Nose route of El Cap. W...


Notes AAJ
The Teton Range

The Teton Range. Our member, F. M. Fryxell, whose interest in this range is well known, has made a relief model of the range and the neighboring Jackson Hole, which was on exhibition this past summer at the Century of Progress Exposition in Chicago.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face

Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face. Our expedition was composed of Antonio Trabado, Ramón Portilla, Pedro Miguel Sánchez, Pedro San Ramón, José Manuel Cardero, Juan María Calderón and me. We got to Base Camp on June 17 after a four-day approach. Already fo...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall in River—British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Blaeberry River

FALL IN RIVER—British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Blaeberry River. Mountain climbers frequently have to cross rivers, and occasionally drown in them as a result. We are reminded of this by the following accident which was serious and could have bee...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Langshisha Ri, West-Northwest Face Asia, Nepal

I made a solo, alpine-style, first ascent of the west-northwest face of Langshisha Ri (6427 meters, 21,086 feet) and the first traverse of the peak. I was accompanied to Base Camp by Dr. Matjaž Vrtovec, Chindi Phurba Sherpa and liaison officer Kes...

| Published 1994 | Author Vanja Furlan


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Cerro Pyramid, Southwest Face

Cerro Pyramid, Southwest Face. It was reported that Slovenian Dusan Debelek and Spanish climber Aritza Monastero climbed an 800-meter route on the south west face of Cerro Pyramid (5885 m) on July 13. The route, called Facig Uno, follows the an ic...


Club Activities AAJ
Mountaineering Club of Alaska

FRANCIS L. CAREY1903-1990Frank Carey died on September 13, 1990 in Sharon, Connecticut after a short illness. He was bom in Seneca, South Carolina and graduated from Clemson College in 1925 with a degree in electrical engineering. He retired from ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Rampart Peak

Rampart Peak (Peak 9). Two ascents of this peak were reported, the earlier being a snow and ice climb from the N.E., and the second an ascent of the precipitous E. face by Charles Grant, William Farrell and David Ragle. The latter climb led direct...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, North Cascades, Pasayten Wilderness, General Sherman, East Face

General Sherman, East Face. On May 31, Billie Butterfield, Dave LeBlanc, Juan Esteban Lira, Natala Goodman and I climbed an outrigger summit of Sherman Peak at the south edge of the Pasayten Wilderness. General Sherman (7,640') lies due east of Sh...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Aconcagua, North Face Variation

Aconcagua, North Face Variation. On January 22, 1982, from a high camp at 20,500 feet on a rock outcrop north of the Polish Glacier, Marty Hoey, George Dunn, Dick Bass, Frank Wells, Chuck Goldmark and I attempted a direct variation up the glacier....