New Hampshire, Mt. Washington (1)—On February 21, a Harvard Mountaineering Club party was climbing in Huntington’s Ravine. The party consisted of W. L. Clarke (21), leader, Oakes Plimpton (22), Keith Kernez, Leif Patterson, and Boyd Everett.Weathe...
AVALANCHE, WARM WEATHERAlaska, Mount Hunter, Moonflower ButtressOn June 6, at 1700, Allan Kearney and Steve Mascioli (38) were climbing during a warm weather spell on the North Buttress Moonflower route of Mount Hunter. Allan was leading the 17th ...
WEATHER, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Jasper National Park, Mounts Charlton and UnwinOn July 15, two inexperienced climbers (both 25) climbed Mount Charlton in the company of two American climbers whom they met on the mountain. In la...
Antisana Sur, Northwest Face. One of the finest peaks in Ecuador, Antisana Sur (c. 5570 meters, 18,275 feet) was ascended for the third time, now by a new route, the northwest face. Climbers were J. Anhalzer, F. Cáceres, D. Moreno, R. Reinoso, N. ...
Westwater Canyon, Arch Tower, Dry Heaves. In June Bill Duncan and John Burnham made the first ascent of Arch Tower, naming their route Dry Heaves (400', 6 pitches, III 5.10 A1). To reach this remote spire, float the Colorado River from Loma to Mee...
Argonaut Peak, Cascades. The second major peak on the connecting ridge with Mount Smart to the east has been called Mount Argonaut (about 8500 feet). After a disappointing climb of the north face, not as good a climb as it looked, which I made on ...
Nanga Parbat, Kinschojfer Route, Attempt. In 1995, Arnold Zukuta, Chris Kettles and I undertook an expedition to Nanga Parbat to explore the possibility of skiing from the summit via the Diamir Face and the Kinschoffer route. Our intent was also t...
Mount Grainger. On July 14 Fred Beckey, Jim Nelson and I climbed a new route on Mount Grainger in the Chehalis Range, northwest of Harrison Hot Springs. After a beautiful approach from the southeast through a basin decorated with numerous waterfal...
Bear Tooth, White Russian. Taras Mytropan (Ukraine), Sergei Matusevich (Ukraine), and I climbed a direct line on the west face of the Bear Tooth. Starting from base camp on the Root Canal, we went straight toward the saddle between the Moose’s Too...
Haucaña, Hancopiti and Illampu, Cordillera Real, 1986. Six Polish climbers led by Waldemar Zmurko made eleven alpine-style ascents in June 1986, including three new routes in the Ancohuma group: Haucaña (6206 meters, 20,360 feet) via 45° to 50° we...
Rakaposhi, Southwest Spur Attempt. Our expedition consisted of Dr. Xavier Azagra, María Roca, Quicu Magriñá, Pere Benaiges, Oscar Cadiach, Joan María Magriñá, Jordi Besora, Enric Dalman, Pere Plana and me as leader. We left Jaglot with 68 porters ...
Cordillera Vilcanota, Various Ascents, Previously Unreported. In July, 1999, a seven-member British team led by Andy Owen made several ascents, some perhaps new, from a base camp near Laguna Saranaro in the seldom-visited southeastern Vilcanota. A...
New Mexico, Sandia Mountains. On 12 July Marvin Lowe (18), and three others and an instructor, all members of a group of Explorer Scouts were engaged in practice rock climbing. They had just received new equipment. Their advisor had had previous r...
Ren Land, various ascents. Ren Land forms part of the northern shores of Scoresbysund, the largest fjord system in the world. Although there have been several scientific projects in the region, before 2007, when Ren Land was invaded by 50 West Lan...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUTE BELAY Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount VictoriaOn August 20, 1986, three climbers (28, 25, and 21) reached the North Peak of Mount Victoria around 1400. They then descended the north ridge toward the Victorian- Collier Col, t...
Dhaulagiri VI, Southwest Buttress. On October 9 Dan Griffith, Peter Carter, Albi Sole and I reached the summit of Dhaulagiri VI (7268 meters, 23,846 feet), via a new route on the southwest buttress. The ascent was made alpine-style in six days fro...
AVIS NEWHALL ADAMS1896-1996Avis Newhall Adams died on October 26, 1996, at the age of 100, in Beverly, Massachusetts, after a brief illness following a stroke.She was born on September 1, 1896, in Lynn, Massachusetts, where her ancestors were amon...
Nilgiri North Attempt. A pre-monsoon expedition of eight Poles and a West German, led by Zbigniew Mlynarczyk, attempted the first-ascent route on the north face and west ridge of Nilgiri North, first climbed in 1962 by the Netherlanders and Lionel...
Annapurna IV, Southwest Pillar, Attempt. The Czech Mountaineering Federation and Sport Club—Mt. Blanc (Prague) set out in September for Annapurna IV. The expedition comprised climbers from the Czech Republic (Jirí Novak, leader; Martin Otta, subst...
Kedarnath Dome. After installing Base Camp, Camp I and Camp II at 4700, 5700 and 6300 meters on August 11,17 and 20, the following climbed to the summit of Kedarnath Dome: on August 22, Ettore Nanni, Libero Pelotti, Roberta Faldella, Fabrizio Desc...