Set in the heart of the central Alaska Range, the Great Gorge of the Ruth Glacier is a massive geographic rift that has shaped a climbing area like no other. More than 20 peaks border the sides of the north-south-trending valley, with walls up ...
In early November, David Goettler (German) and Kazuya Hiraide (Japanese), both experienced and talented climbers, found themselves in a very tight spot when they attempted to ascend Ama Dablam by their own variation of an unusual route up the nort...
Mazamas. The Mazamas of Portland, Oregon, finished 1966 with statistics that reflect the ever-increasing interest in mountaineering. The summer climbing schedule resulted in the following: 151 climbs started, 2407 individual starts, 2052 individua...
SNOW BRIDGE COLLAPSE, UNROPED Wyoming, Wind River Range, Gannett PeakOn August 16, about 1420, Bob Farley and his partner Tony were descending the Gooseneck route of Gannett Peak when the snow bridge leading from the upper snowfields of the route ...
Tahquitz & Suicide. Randy Vogel and Bob Gaines. Chockstone Press, Evergreen, Colorado, 1993. 197 pages, 29 black-and-white photographs, 63 topo maps, approximately 440 routes. $24.95.It is fortunate that this, the 10th guidebook for the beauti...
AgathlanRay GarnerTHE Monument Valley area of northern Arizona and southern Utah, just west of the “four corners,” abounds in fantastic rock formations. Here it seems as if the very skeleton of the earth protrudes through its outer crust. Most of ...
Mount Logan, Japanese Ascent of Independence Ridge. The Mount Logan Expedition of the Japanese Defense Academy Alpine Club was led by Takashi Kawakami and consisted of Yoshihiro Wakaura, Den Shiga, Iwao Takami, Hajime Tanaka, Kazutoshi Hironaka, H...
Physiology of Altitude IllnessIts Role in Alpine Style Rush TacticsCharles S. Houston, M.D.LAST YEAR a world-class climbing physician, an expert in altitude illness, died of high-altitude pulmonary edema while descending from an attempt to rush a ...
Wyoming, Tetons, Grand Teton. On July 26 at 4:00 A.M. a party of ten Appalachian Mountain Club members began an ascent of the Grand Teton via what was supposed to be the Petzoldt-Loomis route. The party included Ellis Blade (leader), Mary Blade, S...
Alpamayo Norte. On Huascarán Norte, Glen Bryden, John Hodsdon, Terry Thomas and I were turned back some 400 feet short of the summit by excessively deep snow on April 29. It would seem that there is usually too much snow on Huascarán in April for ...
FALL INTO CREVASSEAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 2, 1981, James Wickwire (40) and Chris Kerrebrock (25) registered at the Tal- keetna Ranger Station to climb a route on the Wickersham Wall on Mount McKinley.On May 22, at 11:53 a.m., Mountaineering R...
In the Caucasus, two Vicnesc, Hugo Tomaschck and Willi Müller, conducted a short trip last summer, during which they made a number of climbs, including several first ascents and new routes. A peak in the Korgashili range about 14,110 ft., and on a...
Denali National Park and Preserve Mountaineering Summary, 1986. Record numbers of mountaineers, unusual weather patterns, light winter snow pack and volcanic eruptions set the scene for an interesting mountaineering season in the Alaska Range. The...
Southeast Mox Peak, Devil's Club to top of east face. The east face of Southeast Mox Peak (a.k.a. Southeast Twin Spire) is something I never expected to climb. The 2,400'-vertical face rises out of mist and clouds deep in the heart of the North Ca...
FALL ON ROCKNew York, ShawangunksIn June 1981, a man (42) fell 30-feet to his death while leading Shockley’s Without (5.3). (Source: Brad Snyder)AnalysisBoth of these accidents occurred on easy climbing terrain where climbers are more likely to be...
Additional Note: Besides the two great peaks mentioned by Sanchez, this small range has a few more rock peaks, among which are cerros Trinidad and Huariananta, both around 5400 meters. Aside from short scientific and geographic notes, this range h...
Incredible Hulk, Solar Flare. I spotted the line from Blowhard, which takes the left edge of the west face. Just when the sun came ‘round and kissed the face I saw a line of featured but very shallow corners, between the Polish Route and Sunspot, ...
Bastion Spire, Slovenian-Alaskan Route; Garvey Spire. Tim Ciosek (U.S.) and I spent 25 days on the Cul de Sac Glacier (a.k.a. Cool Sac) in the Kichatna Spires. We came to the glacier on June 6 and had amazingly good weather and conditions. On June...
The Mazamas. Obviously, The Mazamas found a few sunny days in 1968. Out of 215 climbs originally scheduled by Climbing and Outing Committees in March, 143 climbing parties actually left Base Camp, 32 of which failed to reach the summit. This repre...
Vertical Pleasures: The Secret Life of a Tax Man. Mick Fowler. Cloudcap Press, Seattle, Washington, 1995. $19.95.I do not read many climbing books. In fact, I only read the classics. Therefore, when I was given Vertical Pleasures and told that it ...