Masherbrum Attempt. Christine de Colombel and I took as our objective the beautiful west ridge of Masherbrum (7821 meters, 25,660 feet), hoping to climb it without high-altitude porters, oxygen or fixed camps. It was the first time that a woman ha...
Santa Cruz, West Face. This summer, after two attempts with different partners, I was finally able to climb the west face of Santa Cruz on August 13. The route stayed on the west face rather than traversing to the west ridge, which is what the ori...
San Lorenzo Sur and Cerro Hermosa Este. My husband Gino Buscaini and I approached the San Lorenzo group from the Estancia El Rincón and went in three days with loads via Lago del Volcán, Río San Lorenzo and Río “Paso Clandestine” to the southwest ...
Ghochhar Sar Tragedy. Six members of a Japanese expedition were killed when buried by a huge avalanche on the Shachiokh Glacier as they were heading for Ghochhar Sar (20,502 feet). This peak lies east of Chitral. The leader was Yoshio Sugimura. Mo...
Mount Forbes, Northwest Face. Jeff Lowe, Graham Thompson and I walked in to Glacier Lake and the following day forded the stream emerging from the Lyell Glacier to bivouac on a moraine near the junction of the Mons and North Forbes glaciers. The c...
British Columbia, Mt. Waddington. In August, about 4 p.m., a party of four from British Columbia Mountaineering Club was preparing final rappel in descent of main tower of Mt. Waddington. Gary Kozel (28) strung a rope through rappel sling left by ...
FALL ON ROCK, SHOULDER DISLOCATIONQuebec, Val David, Mont CondorAt 1330 on September 12, 1987, a novice climber was beginning the ascent of a chimney of l’ Aiguille on Mont Condor. He was taking part in a rock-climbing school, was wearing a helmet...
Everest. An expedition of eight Netherlanders was led by Herman Plugge. They set up Base Camp on August 31 but claim they were prevented for a few days by the Nepalese clean-up group from using the route the latter had just opened through the icef...
El Pilar, La Crux de Navidad. This route climbs the long diagonal crack on the east face of El Pilar. El Pilar is an isolated tower of solid volcanic rock (rhyolite?). Look for the beautiful dihedral halfway up. Start behind trees on boulders at t...
The Duke of the Abruzzi: An Explorer’s Life. Mirella Tenderini and Michael Shandrick. The Mountaineers: Seattle, 1997. 216 pages. $24.95.Climbers of any age or experience level will treasure the biography of explorer and alpinist Luigi Amedeo di S...
Iowa Mountaineers. The club enjoyed an unusually eventful year in 1967. The annual banquet attracted 152 members; Layton Kor was the guest speaker. Twenty-three professional film-lectures were sponsored with an average attendance of 490 persons at...
Manaslu Northeast Face. A light-weight expedition of six Poles and two Mexicans was led by Jerzy Kukuczka. They established Base Camp on September 8 at 4400 meters. From September 17 to October 26 in very bad weather they climbed the difficult and...
Nampa, First Ascent. The Mountaineering Association of Aomori Prefecture expedition was led by Seigo Matsushima. They took the same route which had been attempted by the British in the fall of 1970. On May 4 Susumu Takahashi and Kukuju Kimura left...
Auyan Tepuye, Gran Sabana, Rainbow Jambaia. In March and April, Anne and John Arran, Ivan Calderón, Miles Gibson, Ben Heason, Alex Klenov, and Alfredo Rangel made a free ascent of the Angel Falls wall. Their line (Rainbow Jambaia, 31 pitches, E7 6...
The Colorado Mountain Club. Our club is an organization of 12 groups, located throughout Colorado. The total membership at the end of 1980 is about 7000. During the year we sponsored about 2000 trips.Club-sponsored outings included Yellowstone Nat...
Bhagirathi II, East Face and Northeast Ridge. Our expedition was composed of Wlodzimierz Lipinski, Lech Laski, Dr. Bogdan Meller, Zbigniew Mikolajczyk, Tadeusz Niedzwiedz, Marian Nowak, Marek Orenczuk, Piotr Wójtowicz, Vlademar Zmurko and me as le...
On October 3, shortly after 4:30 p.m., Chris Beoffoli (34) began his descent from Camp Muir. While descending near 7,800 feet on the Muir Snowfield, Beoffoli, according to a report from him, “...fell back and because it was steep, I started to p...
Lemur Wall, new route. To the right of Pectorine, in the vicinity of the huge broken flake, Swiss climbers, Jurg Bernhard and Andreas Bähler, created a new four-pitch route christened, La Voie Plaisir des Guides Suisses. The climb was put up on th...
Kangchenjunga Central Attempt. A 13-man Korean expedition led by Cho Sang-Ku tried to climb to the central summit of Kangchenjunga by the southwest face. On October 12, a high point of 8350 meters was reached.Elizabeth Hawley
La Mano de Fatima, Kaga Tondo, Forsakala Bimbaso. Adventure and unexpected situations guided a group of Czech climbers during their trip to La Mano de Fatima. In spite of very high temperatures, four of them, Pavel Jonak, Vasek Satava, Petr Piecho...