Auyuittuq National Park, Gauntlet Peak. It was reported that the Italian team of Mario Manica, Danny Zampiccoli and Giorgio Nicolodi climbed a new route, Momenti Magici (475 meters, 5.1 le A3+), on Gauntlet Peak in Auyuittuq National Park. The tri...
Quebrada de Rurec, Via Monttrek. It was reported that Spanish climbers Eloi Callado and César Pedrocchi established what was perhaps the first wall route in the canyon of the Quebrada de Rurec in the summer of 1997. Over 13 days, the two climbers ...
Quilindaña, North Face. Quilindaña (4877 meters, 16,002 feet) located in the Cordillera Oriental of Ecuador, is usually referred to as the Matterhorn of this country because of its appearance as a rock tower. In October 1975, a French-Ecuadorian g...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Symmetry Spire. On July 16, John Adams (18) and Marshall Conway (19) had registered for a climb on the Durrance Ridge but after they started they decided to do their climbing in an area considerably to the east ...
Changabang, North Face, Attempt. Our expedition, comprising Julie-Ann Clyma, Brendan Murphy, Roger Payne and Andy Perkins, made the first attempt on the north face of Changabang (6864 m) in May and June. After arriving in New Delhi on May 13, the ...
Climbing in the Magic Islands: A Climbing and Hiking Guide to the Lofoten Islands of Norway. Ed Webster. Nord Norsk Klatreskole, Henningsvaer, Norway. Maps, black-and-white photos. Softcover. 320 pages.Comment: This is the fruit of Ed Webster’s fo...
Aconcagua, General Overview. The tallest peak in the Western Hemisphere had a tough season. The normal routes up the 22,832-foot peak are non-technical, and easy access to high altitude has proved increasingly deadly in recent years as more people...
Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) Attempt, 1984. An expedition led by Frenchman Pierre Mazeaud had among its members L. Berardini, L. Brandler and F. Hess. They attempted to climb Gasherbrum I by the 1958 American first-ascent route but failed at 7200 me...
Mill Creek Canyon, Bitterroot Range. The Bitterroots extend south from the Missoula area and are punctuated by glacier-carved granite canyons whose creeks drain east to the Bitterroot valley. There is little evidence of climbing and the canyons se...
Standing Rock, Monument Basin, Canyonlands. The big news in Canyon- lands in 1993 was Keith Reynolds’s and Walt Shipley’s free ascent of Standing Rock. Although the tower was first climbed in 1962 by Layton Kor, Huntley Ingalls and Steve Komito, i...
ANCHOR FAILURE WHILE LOWERING OFFAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade MountainDuring a climb of Mother’s Day (5.6) in April, 1990, the leader placed a Friend and used it to lower back down. This anchor pulled out and he fell about three meters to a l...
Traverse of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta; Pico Simmons. Tom Simpson and I entered the range from above Ciénaga Magdalena (San Pedro de la Sierra), went into the paramo by Cuchilla Cimarona, and continued along the western spine of the Viscungu...
Makalu Post-Monsoon Attempts. Four expeditions attempted unsuccessfully to climb Makalu (8463 meters, 27,766 feet). Six Australians and a New Zealander led by Ian Collins tried to ascend the west buttress and reached 6800 meters on October 1. They...
The Eiger: Vertical Arena. Edited by Daniel Anker (Mountaineers Books, $32.95). Anker has collected 17 climbers’ views in this profusely illustrated history.
Everest Attempt. Our Civilian-Military Expedition was composed of Captains Alfonso Juez, Francisco Gam, Franco Pelayo, Cesar Alfaro, Pedro Expósito, Sergeants Pedro Aceredillo, Francisco Pérez, Juan Orta, Domingo Hernández, Eduardo Fernández, Avel...
Mount Huntington, West Face. In April Denny Hogan, Vic Walsh, and I climbed an ice gully to the left of the 1965 Harvard route on the west face of Huntington. We placed our “High” Camp in the protection of a small cliff at around 10,000 feet, fixe...
Domeland, North Portion of White Dome. In October Mark Meng and I climbed this route. Bubbly, chicken-head rock provided surprising climbing for three pitches that turned out easier than anticipated.Fred Beckey
Bhrigupanth Ascent. We arrived in Gangotri on September 9. After last-minute arrangements for portering we entered the Kedar Ganga, establishing Base Camp on September 12 in Kedar Tal (4750 meters). During the first five days we established ABC at...
North Face of A Peak, Cabinet Range. The Libby Quadrangle Map of the USGS shows the elevation of A Peak to be 8634 feet. This is the second point in the range, the highest being Snowshoe Peak, about a mile to the southeast. The map also shows the ...
The Watchtower, Northeast Arête, Tokopah Valley. Hidden in a small dead-end valley, this huge granite prow has escaped the notice of most California climbers. It rises in a spire-like blade about 1000 feet high and only 75 feet wide. Greg Henzie a...