CHESTER L. ERRETT1905-1994Chester L. Errett was a member of the American Alpine Club for 51 years. He was hard working, persistent and helpful to others in his vocations and avocations. Chet was born in Los Angeles, California, on October 23, 1905...
Nilgiri North. A Polish women’s expedition came to Nepal rather late in the season and established Base Camp on October 21, just 3½ weeks before the season officially ends. They attempted the north face to the west ridge of Nilgiri North, the same...
Dhaulagiri I, Attempt and Tragedy. Chantai Mauduit and the Sherpa she often climbed with, one of several men named Ang Tshering (not a summiter of any 8000-meter mountain), were found lying in their second high-altitude camp at 6550 meters on Dhau...
Bharte Khunta. This peak was climbed on June 19 by a team from Delhi led by C.S. Pande.Kamal K. Guha, Editor, Himavanta, India
East-Southeast Ridge of Symmetry Spire. John Dietschy, Dave Dingman, and Karl Pfiffner on July 30, 1957 climbed this new route, the first ridge to the east of the Jensen Ridge. This ridge ends on the east ridge, which they then followed to the sum...
Spantik, British Route, Second Ascent and Variation. Mikhail Davy, Alexander Klenov, Marko Prezelj, Manu Guy, Manu Pellissier and Attila Ozsvath traveled to Spantik (7028m) in June. After climbing 25 pitches of the British route, Davy and Klenov r...
Huddleson’s Bluff, South Fork of the Clearwater River. On October 19, 1973, we crossed the cold river and hiked downstream to the wall. In the morning we crossed the sometimes very exposed ledge at the base of the main wall to where Dave had left ...
Cold Climbs. Ken Wilson, Dave Alcock and John Barry, compilers. Diadem Books, London, 1983. 280 pages, 181 black and white and 62 color photographs, 70 diagrams. £17.95.Please answer the following statements truthfully:1. I am an ice climber and p...
EXPOSURE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, WEATHER Oregon, Mount HoodAt 0300 on March 5, 1988, two climbers from the Portland area left Timberline Lodge on Mount Hood with the intention of skiing to Illumination Saddle (c. 300 meters) and then continuing by ...
FALL ON ROCK-IMPROPER USE OF HARNESS (TIED INTO GEAR LOOP), INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INADEQUATE BELAY, INEXPERIENCEDTexas, Reimers Ranch County Park, Dead Cat's WallOn November 18, three adults acting as guides took six teenagers on a church youth g...
Expédition Médicale Française en Himalaya. Jean Paul Richalet, editor. Mimeographed, Paris 1982. 400 pages, many charts.In 1981 a strong French expedition not only climbed Numbur (6956 meters) in Sola Khumbu, Nepal, but collected a vast amount of ...
K12. The Saltoro Expedition spent three months in the region at the head of the Saltoro valley, in the eastern Karakoram, during late May, June, July and August. The members were P. J. Stephenson, Australian, leader, K. J. Miller and D. Haffner, B...
WEATHER, EXPOSURE, EXCEEDING ABILITIESWashington, Mount RainierDuring the week of March 19-23, 1989, a ten-person Special Forces Unit of the U.S. Army climbed from Paradise to the Camp Muir area and back for the purposes of testing equipment and m...
Patagonia: Terra magica per alpinisti e viaggiatori. Gino Buscaini and Silvia Metzeltin. Dall’Oglio, Milano, 1987. 272 pages, 73 color photographs, 76 black-and-white photographs, 11 maps, topos, route sketches, drawings. Lire 50,000.This magnific...
A Selection of some 900 British and Irish Mountain Tops. Compiled and arranged by William McKnight Docharty. Edinburgh: Darien Press Ltd., 1954. 124 pages: frontispiece, 9 panoramic photographs, mountain lists, explanatory texts. (Privately printe...
Mount Deborah from the North, Attempt. After flying in from Harding Lake to a gravel bar on the edge of the Gillam Glacier, John Bouchard, Bob Garmirian, Tony Goodwin and I packed our gear about eight miles up the west fork of the Gillam to a poin...
Mt. Jefferson (3)—On September 6, 1954, William Morley (24) and Sam Morley (20) ascended Mt. Jefferson from Pamelia Lake despite the comments of bad weather from three other parties, who were descending. They reached the red saddle (10,000 ft.) at...
East Face of Longs Peak, The Diamond, Toiling Midgets. During the second week of August, Pete Takeda and I established a new route, Toiling Midgets (VIA3+ 5.8), on the east face of Longs Peak. Upon arriving at the base of the wall we discovered th...
Mera. French climbers, Marcel Jolly, G. Bang, L. Honnilh, L. Limarques, with Ang Lakhpa and two other Sherpas climbed Mera (21,120 feet) in the Khumbu region on October 29, 1973. They climbed steep glacial slopes on the north. In 1953 Colonel Jimm...
Fast track permits. 113 Himalayan peaks were pre-cleared for 2009, meaning that obtaining permits should only take two-three weeks. You still need to fill out an application and other formalities, but now you can arrive on a tourist visa, so the h...