Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Kashmir and Ladakh, Other Kishtwar Expeditions

Other Kishtwar Expeditions. Mo Anthoine, Bill Barker, Joe Brown and Pete Minks attempted Brammah II (21,080 feet). They reached the southwest col at 18,000 feet and established camp, but bad weather and fresh snow prevented further progress. Thirt...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India-Garhwal, Gangotri I and Rudugaira

Gangotri I and Rudugaira. A second Indian Mountaineering Foundation Pre-Everest Expedition climbed Gangotri I (6672 meters, 21,890 feet) on October 15, 16, and 17, when eleven men and three women reached the summit. Eleven members also climbed Rud...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Aiguille Extra

Aiguille Extra. In June Mike Heath and I climbed the obvious dihedral on the east face of the 1200-foot needle directly south of Third Needle in the Whitney Group. We called this needle or blade Aiguille Extra and rate it V, F8, A3. The earlier ro...


Accident Reports ANAM
Ischemia and Coronary Occlusion—Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Rib/Cassin

UNITED STATESISCHEMIA AND CORONARY OCCLUSIONAlaska, Mount McKinley, West Rib/CassinOn April 26, H. Dean Barkley, Jr. (47) and his partner were attempting to climb the West Rib and Cassin routes of Denali. Barkley had a history of cardiac problems....


Book Reviews AAJ
Cervin, cime exemplaire

Cervin, cime exemplaire, by Gaston Rébuffat. Paris: Librairie Hachette, 1965. 221 pages, cover and 24 plates (some double-page) in color; many illustrations, black and white, not only of the mountains, but portraits and reproductions of old and mo...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, East Greenland, Knud Rasmussen and Liverpool Land, Various Ascents

Knud Rasmussen and Liverpool Land, various ascents. In July 2002 Tim Mosedale and companions spent two weeks in Liverpool Land, then flew south to Knud Rasmussen Land. During their exploration of both areas they climbed a total of 15 peaks, of whi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Barum Glacier

Barum Glacier. A German group under Otto Huber consisting further of Frau Ria Huber, Konrad Kirch and Frau J. Kirch was on the southern Barum Glacier and made a small ascent. This was close to the route taken by the Norwegians when they climbed Ti...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Nevado Ulta, Toy's Band

Nevado Ulta, Toy’s Band. After our climb in the Huayhuash [see below], we returned to Huaraz to learn about conditions. The guide Alfredo, of the agency Mount- climb, helped us considerably.We needed two or three days of rest to recover from a nig...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Steller, Eastern Chugatch Mountains

Mount Steller, Eastern Chugatch Mountains. In 1991, our expedition, shortened by weather delays on the fly-in and awed by the complexity of the route, had diverted away from Mount Steller and we instead made the first ascent of P 8263, eleven mile...


Club Activities AAJ
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club

Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. While the DMC sponsored no major expedition during the summer, it was nevertheless well represented by members climbing on the western circuit, mostly in Canada, Yosemite, and the Tetons. The school year saw climbing...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Himlung Himal Attempt

Himlung Himal Attempt. A Japanese expedition led by Hiroyuki Baba attempted to make a winter ascent of Himlung Himal by its northwest ridge. The route turned out to be extremely difficult because of the snow conditions and on December 17, they had...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Nevado Caraz I, Dos Gringos to Summit Cornices

Nevado Caraz I, Dos Gringos to summit cornices. On July 13, 2006, Slovenians Rok Stubelj and Arcon Jernej climbed the south face, to the right of the West Ridge, of Nevado Caraz I (6,025m), to directly beneath the summit. In nine hours they reache...


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C., Oregon Section

A.A.C., Oregon Section. In addition to the usual dinner meetings, the Section’s activities were concentrated in four areas. Once again Jim Angell did an excellent job in putting out the newsletter, which keeps our members, plus many national membe...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal and Kumaon, Tirsuli I

Tirsuli I. O.P. Sharma and Sherpa Mingur climbed Tirsuli I (23,210 feet) on October 6. Sharma suffered severe frostbite. (First ascent by N. Mallik, S. Chakravorty and two Sherpas, October 9, 1966.)KAMAL K. GUHA, Himalayan Club


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina—Central Andes, Cerro Pabellón, 1989 

Cerro Pabellón, 1989. In January, 1989, Ortando Bravo, J. Madozzo, Maria Eugenia del Moral, S. Muntaner, Jorge and Cristián Schweimer, Daniel Villagra and I were active south of the Ojos del Salado. We launched a laborious attempt on a high mounta...


Accident Reports ANAM
Exhaustion, Climbing Alone, Inadequate Clothing and Equipment, Washington, Mount Rainier

EXHAUSTION, CLIMBING ALONE, INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUPMENT Washington, Mount RainierOn August 22, 1987, Robert Pearson (57) hitchhiked from his home in Puyallup Paradise. Dressed in smooth-soled boots, cotton pants, wool shirt, and metal hard ha...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Ecuador, Cotopaxi, Sangay and Chimborazo

Cotopaxi, Sangay and Chimborazo. A group of 11 Czechs, three Poles and a Russian were active in Ecuador from June until October, 1972. Jirí Hales, Miroslav Kruta, Gabriela Zoubková and I made a new route to the east summit of Cotopaxi from the nor...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine—Chilean Patagonia, Attempt to Traverse the Southern Patagonia Icecap from North to South

Attempt to Traverse the Southern Patagonian Icecap from North to South. Spaniard José Carlos Tamayo and Argentines Gabriel Ruiz, Marcos Couch, Alberto del Casillo and Alexander Portella attempted to make the first complete traverse of the 400-kilo...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow — Loss of Control on Voluntary Glissade, New Hampshire, Mount Washington, Lion's Head Winter Route

FALL ON SNOW – LOSS OF CONTROL ON VOLUNTARY GLISSADENew Hampshire, Mount Washington, Lion's Head Winter routeOn March 3, a group of mountaineers (ages unknown) were glissading Lion’s Head Winter Route when one of them lost control and fell down ap...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat

Nanga Parbat. Our Benelux expedition had as members Belgians Jan Vanhees, Lut Vivijs and Pascale Noel (the latter two are ladies), Luxemburger Eugène Berger and me from the Netherlands. In mid-June Vanhees, Vivijs and I traveled to the Swat valley...