Nevada, White Mountains, Boundary Peak—On May 2, Burl Parkinson (55) and Francis Foley (53) were killed in a fall near the summit of 13,145-ft. Boundary Peak. Both men were active members of the Sierra Club, and experienced climbers in the Sierra Nevada and neighboring desert ranges. Parkinson was anxious to climb this peak and nearby 13,465-ft. Montgomery to complete a Club section qualification. It was the first climb of the season above 10,000 feet for both men. Since they climbed alone, this report is based on the findings of the search and evacuation parties.

Their route was a standard one-day climb, starting from the road-end at 8900 feet in Trail Canyon, Nevada, and climbing ridges or from the head of the canyon, up steep snow, scree and talus, to the summit of Boundary. A sharp ¾-mile ridge leads from Boundary, across the California border, to Montgomery. No rope is required under normal conditions.

Informants from a nearby mine reported a storm on the peaks early in the May 2 morning. The two men had put chains on their truck and there was a mound of snow in front of their truck at 8200 feet. By noon the peaks were partly clear, but another storm hit with violence late in the afternoon. This storm continued until the morning of May 6, with snow and strong northerly winds.

Family and friends had been informed of the intended route and of their expected return to Los Angeles, May 3. The men were reported missing late May 4. Search parties combed Trail Canyon on May 6, and climbed Boundary Peak. The bodies were found in the evening of May 6, about 150 feet below the summit. A Marine mountain rescue team, commanded by Lt. Col. G. F. Averill, and assisted by three Sierra Club members, moved the bodies down to timberline on May 8. They were carried the rest of the way by horses on May 9.

Both men had climbed Montgomery, and returned along the ridge to Boundary. They were facing the storm. Their glasses were in their pockets. (From this it was concluded it was cloudy and possibly stormy.) Apparently they were traversing the SE face of Boundary to avoid regaining the summit. Scree on this slope is very loose and at the angle of repose. Itis customary to use what talus is present for better footing. Both men had lug-soled boots and at least one had an ice ax.

The bodies had come to rest at the bottom of a steep talus rib. They did not fall crossing a chute. Parkinson was on his back with Foley partly on top of him. Neither appeared to have moved following the fall. Both suffered head injuries, which either were immediately lethal or contributed to death by exposure. Parkinson’s ice axe was found about 20 feet above, and one glove about 100 feet below. Both were still wearing their dav packs. Both carried exposure meters, but their cameras were not found.

Source: F. Sanborn, H. Bingham, and D. Clarke (members of rescue party). Will Siri.

Analysis: The exact circumstances of the fall are not known. However, it is believed that one or both slipped on the snow-covered talus. They fell together. Bad weather and fatigue may have contributed.