Ecuador has been the scene of considerable aerial activity of late. An expedition headed by Capt. Erskine Loch has recently completed a fifteen months’ survey for an aerial route across the Andes to the eastern provinces in the Amazon Basin and no...
Ten years of exploration in the Puna de Atacama. During the last decade, exploratory mountaineering has achieved importance in the Puna de Atacama, a high plateau (altiplano) at about 3,500m in northern Argentina and Chile. This Andean region, one...
Mount Heyburn, Complete East Ridge, Sawtooth Range. Stan Hilbert and I made the complete traverse of the east ridge of Mount Heyburn, climbing all major gendarmes directly, in seven hours. The route involved several difficult abseils. Slings shoul...
Twenty Classics in Twenty Days (from California to Wyoming). Hans Florine, Nancy Feagin, Christian Santelices and Willy Benegas made an amazing series of classic climbs between July 17 and August 5. They ascended 60,080 feet, traveled 137 miles on...
FALL ON SNOW AND ROCKAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount BlakistonOn July 7, 1990, a party of five climbed the Class 4 south gully on Mount Blakiston. They were beginning their descent by traversing a small, moderately angled slope when the leader sli...
A Note on Names of Formations Rising from the Hainablak Glaciers. Directed by Greg Child, Bernard Domenech (France) contacted the AAJ in the autumn of 1998 with a note on the naming of Shipton Spire. He wrote, “[In the 1936 expedition report], Ard...
On August 31st, a climber was leading up a line on the NW side of Eastpost when he slipped and fell approximately 40 feet to the ledge below. He had not placed any protection. Injuries were assessed as being a broken ankle, some lacerations and ...
Sentinel Range, various first ascents and GPS Work. During the season I led my fifth expedition to the Sentinel Range, and as on previous trips the aim was to climb and re-survey a number of the highest peaks, in order to increase and refine the g...
Cho Oyu. On March 5, Martín Zabaleta, a Spanish Basque living in the United States, Americans Alan Kearney and I, our staff and four “family” trekking members set off in a hired bus for Jiri, the beginning of our walk to the mountain. An approach ...
Pico Vértigo, Sierra Nevada de Mérida. A Venezuelan party led by T. Viscarret made in January the second ascent of Pico Vértigo (c. 16,000 feet), a sharp rock peak which local climbers call the “Petit Dru of Venezuela.” The first ascent had been m...
Annapurna South Face. Our expedition hoped to climb a direct route in the center of Annapurna’s south face alpine-style. The team was made up of Valentin Ivanov, Dr. Valeri Karpenko, Vassili Elagin, Vladimir Bashirov, Vladimir Obichod, Sergei Isae...
Mount Everest, Spanish Attempt. The Expedición Tximist was composed of Juan Ignacio Lorente, leader, Angel Landa, Luis Abalde, Alfonso Alonso, Juan Cortazar, Luis I. Domingo, Juan C. Fernández, Ricardo Gallardo, Rodolfo Kirch, Francisco Lusarreta,...
Makalu West Face Attempts. The west face of Makalu was also attempted by American Jeff Lowe and French climbers Catherine Destivelle and Erik Decamp. After acclimatization, they divided. Lowe turned to the route unsuccessfully tried in 1981 by Pol...
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPEDOregon, Mount Hood, SouthsideOn May 17, John Creager (54) was descending a Southside variation on Mount Hood with his two partners. He lost his footing and fell about 400 feet, sustaining serious injuries, including l...
Voyage de Saussure hors des Alpes, by Charles Gos. 8 vo. ; pp. 144, with nine illustrations from contemporary prints and portraits. Neuchatel and Paris: Attinger, 1935. Price Fr. 3.75.Turning his back on the glaciers of Chamonix, and upon the Alps...
Split Mountain, East Arête of North Summit. This long ridge is not as continuously steep as its neighbor that leads to the south summit, but the total climbing distance is greater, due to several gaps and a long knife- edged section in the middle....
Mount Bear, North Ridge. In early June, 1993, Bruce Blatchley and I made the fourth ascent of Mount Bear, via a new route on the north ridge. Our ascent occurred approximately one week after the third ascent party (Doug Barlow and Kaj Bune) reache...
AVALANCHE, LOSS OF CONTROI—GLISSADING, POOR ROUTE FINDINGColorado, San Juan Mountains, Lookout PeakI was mountain climbing with my husband, Edward W. Enlow, Jr. (38), when he had a fatal mountaineering accident on June 13, 1992. The following is a...
Left for Dead: My Journey Home from Everest, by Beck Weathers (Villard, $24.95). The story of Weathers' survival on Everest in 1996 is already well-known; this is more the story of his life, and Weathers casts a cool eye on himself: depression, dy...
Everest Attempt. The first Greek Himalayan expedition had as members Kostas Kanidis, Kostas Passaris, Nikos Louridis and me as leader and Bulgarian Dinio Georgiev-Tomov. We got to Base Camp at 5200 meters on July 16 and acclimatized for ten days. ...