On June 7 at 0836, an NPS mountaineering patrol enroute to the high camps encountered a 58 year-old male climber at approximately 7,000 feet on the Kahiltna Glacier experiencing significant chest pain and labored breathing. The patient reported ...
Satopanth Attempt and Near Tragedy. Our expedition was composed of Michel Chamot, Denis Favre, Guy Bartschi, Jean-Pierre Susini, Patrick Gavard, Henri Gay-Balmaz, Gabriel Dubuis, Philippe and Elizabeth Beguin, Christine Sherwood and me as leader. ...
Condoriri, Wila Lloje, Jiskha Pata, Warawarani and Other Neighboring Peaks, Cordillera Real. In the first part of August a group composed of Andrea Facchetti, Melchiorre and Giovanni Foresti and me from Bergamo with Missionary Fathers Angelo Gelmi...
Mount Stuart, Northeast Face. After an overnight stay at Ingalls Lake, two and one-half miles from the North Fork of the Teanaway River road, in August Don Anderson, Dick Hebble, Dave Mahre, and Gene Prater made a rapid trip across Stuart Pass, Go...
K2. This remarkable climb made by Pierre Beghin and Christophe Profit, which began on the Pakistani side and continued up the northwest ridge and north face in China, is described in a complete article in this Journal.
Mount Rainier, Central Mowich Face. An ascent of the central part of this broad and steep face was first made July 23 and 24 by Dick Pargeter, Gene Prater, Jim Wickwire and me. This new route differed from the June 1957 route by Beckey, Gordon, Ho...
“Kohanha” (Kohe Qala Ust). Jerzy Wala suggests as a better name “Kohalha” (Camel Humps) for Wala Peak 421, previously called Kohe Qala Ust. The east and west peaks resemble the humps of a camel; moreover the Qala Ust valley does not head up onto ...
Nanda Devi East. A team from the Indian Border Security Force, led by S.C. Negi, approached via the Milam valley and Longstaff Col. On October 5, S.D. Thomas and six others reached the summit.Harish Kapadia, Editor, Himalayan Journal
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. During 1987, Section members were involved in the resolution of several access disputes. In both cases, climbing was permitted to continue. In crags on top of Mount Tamalpais, a traditional learning area in a spectac...
Trinity Peak, northwest ridge, attempt; Chogolisa, northwest face of southwest ridge, attempt. Two days after leaving Hushe village on July 16, we established our base camp at a pleasant site called Xhuspang (4,680m) on the northwest side of the E...
Mount Temple, North Face, Central Pillar. On July 18 and 19 Mike Eastburn and I did a new variant on the north face of Mount Temple. Starting at three P.M. on the north-ridge route, we climbed the first 1500 feet on the ridge on its crest to the o...
Consumnes Gorge. In February Ron Vardanega and I put up three new routes on the dome across the river from the popular bouldering area: 1). Grandma Buttons. Go over the overhang at the bottom of the central crack system. Traverse above the arch on...
Right Twin, Paca-Lolo Dreams. From October 15-October 20, Brad Bond, Bryan Smith and I climbed a new route, Paca-Lolo Dreams (V 5.9 A3-, seven pitches) about 350 feet right of Peyote Dreams. The climb begins in a 5.9 hand crack that had been climb...
Pronghorn, East Face. Certainly among the outstanding faces in the Range are Pronghorn’s east and southeast faces. The latter, which rises in an almost straight swoop from a rockbound lake to the summit, is quite vertical. Kor and Beckstead went u...
VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK, PROTECTION PRORLEMS, FATIGUENew York, Mohonk Preserve ShawangunksFourteen incidents were reported in 1994, of which eight resulted in fractures or dislocations. There were two fatalities. One occurred when a man (47) slipped...
Great BritainMr. Henry M. Stimson, U. S. Secretary of War, has been elected an Honorary Member of the Alpine Club (London), similar honor having previously been conferred upon him by the Amercian Alpine Club. Mr. Stimson and Col. Strutt crossed th...
Eaglehead (west), East Face. Believing that the standard route of the West Eaglehead (next to Black Pyramid) actually ascends the northeast ridge, Doug Bond and I climbed a new route up the east face in mid May, following a flake system to the sum...
Aiguille Extra, South Face, Previously Unreported. Peter Noebels and I climbed the South Face (IV 5.10c, 1,400') of Aiguille Extra in July, 1993. This route is a beautiful climb with excellent crack climbing and clean rock. The climb begins on a r...
Mount Everest. Rumors exist of a Chinese expedition to Mount Everest in May. No further news has come, leaving one to wonder if the group failed or if it ever went.
FALL ON ROCK—RAPPEL ANCHOR SLING NOT TIED, DISTRACTION Colorado, Aspen, Die HardOn October 12, Jake McNelly (23) set up a rappel on a short sport climbing route at a popular cliff called Die Hard. McNelly had walked around to the top of the cliff ...