Annapurna II Attempt. An expedition of six Spanish Basques led by Jesús Bereciartua tried to climb Annapurna II up the north face and along the west ridge from Annapurna IV. They set up Camps I, II and III at 4800, 5500 and 6300 meters on March 28...
Noshaq. The Bulgarian Hindu Kush Expedition, led by Petr Kavrkov and composed of D. Petkov, K. Aleksiev, I. Vasilev, K. Dimcev, A. ZahaHriev, H. Džambazov, P. Georgiev, R. Savov, J. Stojanov, K. Petrov and D. Jirov, had a tragic fate. They were in...
Cerro Marmolejo, Senda Real and The Nook. Austrians Harald Berger and Albert Leichtfried established a wild ice route on the south face of Cerro Marmolejo (6,100m, about 20 km from Baños Morales) in the Cajón del Maipo in January 2006. Their line,...
Dhaulagiri, South Ridge. It was the goal for Jean-Noël Roche and me to climb the south ridge or spur of Dhaulagiri with no support whatsoever. The route had been climbed by a heavy Japanese expedition in 1978. A film crew of Philippe Lallet and An...
Southeast Ridge of Middle Teton, August 15, 1954. Bill Buckingham and Virgil Day, using several pitons for protection, climbed the more easterly of the two south ridges.
Nojin Kansa, Ascent. In the spring, Masakazu Okuda led a three-member Japanese expedition that made an ascent along the ridge between Togulon (ca. 6800m) and Nojin (Ningqing) Kansa (7206m), continuing to the summit of Nojin (Ningqing) Kansa via th...
Colorado Mountain Club. The club’s rapid growth continued, with an increase of 20% during the year to over 4200. The 12 local groups undertook some 1100 one-day and weekend climbing and hiking trips. Interest in winter mountaineering and camping c...
Imjatse, Southwest Face, 1989. Italian Carlo Stratta and Dawa Lama climbed a new route on the southwest face of Imjatse (Island Peak). They climbed the 4000-foot route in seven hours to reach the southwestern summit. They continued the traverse to...
Trollveggen, French Route, first free ascent. In a remarkably fast two-day ascent, August 7-8, Sindre and Ole Johan Saether made the first free ascent of the French Route on Troll Wall. Since it was first sieged from July 22 to August 10,1967, by ...
Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face. A Swiss expedition climbed the Diamir Face of Nanga Parbat. They established Base Camp, Camps I, II, III, and IV at 13,125, 16,400, 20,000, 22,950 and 24,600 feet on May 2, 5, 13, June 1 and 2 respectively. On June 3 lea...
Mercedario, Cordillera de la Ramada. An eight-man expedition of the Club Andino de Chile, Santiago, entered into Argentina by way of Las Ojotas pass (13,501 feet) and placed a base camp at the foot of the west ridge of Cerro Mercedario, which conn...
In late May, a rock climber was rescued after falling about 40 feet. The 20-year-old man was taken by helicopter to University Hospital in Madison after he was stabilized by first-responders from Baraboo.Authorities say the man and his girlfriend ...
New guide to Lofoten climbing. Ed Webster’s classic guide Climbing in the Magic Islands was reprinted last year. However, the Nord Norsk Klatre Skole and RockFax are collaborating to produce a new rock-climbing guide to the Lofoten Islands, includ...
Deo Tibba, Lahul. In June 1955 the German, Rudolf Rott, made the second ascent of the lower (19,687 feet) of Deo Tibba’s two summits. He also climbed Malana Peak. In August and September 1956 the Frenchman André Guillemot and Sherpa Nima Tensing w...
Tuno Fjord, East Greenland. Morag Martin (f), Steve Grant, Bill Powell and I were landed on July 18 at Tuno Fjord, about three hours by boat north of Kulusuk. We ferried loads for four days up onto the main glacier that eventually feeds Tuno Fjord...
Pik Box (4,242m), central buttress of east face, new route. Pik Box is popular for climbing. There are two classic routes: 4A on the northern wall (Aytbaeva, 1956), and 5B “The Balloon” (Mikhaylov, 1997) on the left side of the northern wall. In 1...
Mount McKinley, Glisse Descents. In May and June, two mountaineers from Slovenia, skier Dr. Iztok Tomazin and snowboarder Marko Car, accompanied by Ms. Urska Poljansek, were busy on the west side of Mount McKinley. Although the weather and the sno...
Gamubar Zom Attempt, Hindu Raj. We attempted to climb the 6518-meter (21,385-foot) peak from the Chhelish Glacier by its south ridge in July. We were Katsutoshi Ikebe, Taizo Fukada, Naoya Yamasaki, Atsuhiko Hirota, Chiaki Inanmi, Yoshimi Shimuzu (...
New Mexico, Organ Mountains—Dingleberry Peak—The accident occurred during September 1956, at 10 A.M. when Bonard E. Topp (21), Robert E. Conner (22), and Alton H. Earle (20) were descending the south side of Dingleberry Peak after completing the f...
AVALANCHE—Alaska, Mt. Foraker. Toshio Hirakawa (29), Yoshitsugo Yamaya (23), and Kenjo Koshiishi (28) were members of a five-person Japanese party planning to climb Mount Foraker via the Northeast ridge. On August 6, four members of the party were...