South America, Peru–Cordillera Blanca, Huantsán, Western Summit and Other Peaks
Huantsán, Western Summit and Other Peaks. In July John Tarver and Kevin Starr climbed to the western summit of Huantsán up the north-facing ice slope between the main and west summits. They set out from the Laguna Tambillo in the Quebrada Rajucolta and climbed below the ice cliffs to the base of the west face. They then ascended twenty pitches of 55° ice and snow to the col and up to the western summit. They bivouacked once near the top of the ice cliff. They considered the route to the main summit too dangerous. They descended the slopes on the south. In August Tarver and Chris Hassig climbed the southwest face of Alpamayo in two hours from the bergschrund, unroped until the last ten meters. That same day Tom and Mike Carr also climbed the southwest face of Alpamayo by a longer flute. This same pair also climbed the south face of Chacraraju by the Mark Richey route only to the top of the face; they did not climb the ridge to the summit.