Condoriri, North Face Direct, 1977. The Frenchmen, D. Chapuis, Christian Jacquier and A. Malatrait did this new route in January of 1977.
Barnaj II, South Peak. An eight-man Japanese expedition led by Nobuyoshi Kubo had permission to climb Barnaj I. After getting to Base Camp at 13,125 feet in the Barnaji Nala on May 22, they gave up the idea of climbing Barnaj I because of three da...
Needles of the Black Hills. The Iowa Mountaineers 1961 Summer Camp in the Black Hills represents the first outing of a major mountaineering club in this area. Forty-four members set up camp at the Forest Service campground at Horsethief Lake. From...
Parinacota and Cerro El Palomo. Richard Waetjen climbed Parina- cota (20,768 feet) on November 3, 1977 with three Chileans. The peak lies near the Bolivian frontier in northeastern Chile. On February 22, 1979 he climbed Cerro El Palomo (15,912 fee...
Mt. Hunter, Mini-Moonflower. In May two new routes were established on Mt. Hunter’s north buttress, which has become known as the Mini-Moonflower. This spur peak is actually a facet of the northeast ridge, and previous ascensionists (1999 AAJ, p. ...
A note by Dr. Adolf Diemberger. Much of this information is as yet unconfirmed. A detailed account will be published in the summer of 1969 in the Österreichische Alpenzeitung.
Tirich-North and Ghul-Lasht-Zom. The Austrians Kurt Diemberger, his wife Maria Antonia, Herwig Handler, and Fritz Lindner left Chitral on August 2, ascended the Chitral valley and crossed the Zani Pass to Shagrom. They went up the Tirich Glacier t...
Nanda Devi Attempt. Nanda Devi (25,645 feet) was attempted by an expedition sponsored by the Gujarat Sports Council and led by Nandlal Purohit. Bad weather allowed little advance beyond Camp III. (Apparently they were heading for the south ridge o...
Squamish Chief, Zodiac Wall. On the shadowed northern sections of the Chief, one great wall dominates; for 1400 vertical feet Zodiac Wall is the sheerest and most difficult of the Chief’s many faces. The few possible route lines seem to blank out ...
Pico Bonnpland, Northeast Face and Ascents in Southern Venezuela. Although the northeast wall of Pico Bonnpland (4882 meters, 16,017 feet) is only 1000 feet high, it offers difficulties of the 4th and 5th grade. Dora Ocanto and I made the climb by...
Mount Owen, Winter Ascent. On March 20 Peter Lev, David Lowe and George Lowe made a fast winter ascent of Mount Owen, travelling from the Beaver Creek area to the summit and back to Beaver Creek in one day.George Lowe
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. The 1961 climbing season started in February and March with ice climbing and ski traverses in the White Mountains. Spring brought the usual rock climbing in New Hampshire, Vermont, and New York at such areas as White...
Free Korea, North Face, New Route. The north face of Svobodnaya Korea (Free Korea Peak, 4740m) holds ice and mixed routes of more than a kilometer in length. Under the leadership of Michail Michailov, our team of four (including Andrey Puchinin, A...
Cordillera Raura. The Peruvians Terencio Jiménez and Máximo Luna, of the Club Andinista Huarancolca, of Churín, and I, made an ascent of Nevado Yanco (16,437 feet) on July 28. We approached the peak via Raura mine and the lake of Niño Perdido, and...
Cleaning and Maintaining Climbing Base Camps in South America. In South America there are many beautiful climbing areas that are utilized by a large number of climbers. One feature that all these areas have in common is a lack of facilities for hu...
FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, Joshua Tree National MonumentOn September 22, 1985, I (Allen Sanderson [22]), was leading a moderate 5.8 crack on Dogleg. I had made good progress placing protection every two to three meters. About 12 meters into the climb...
Nanga Parbat South Summit, East Buttress. The east buttress, which rises from the upper Bazhin Glacier, had long attracted my attention since I had first reconnoitered the Rupal Face with Toni Kinshofer in 1963. We got to Base Camp on the left mor...
Oregon: Mount Hood. Just before dawn on 29 October 1949, Donald Welk, a 20-year-old Lewis and Clark College student, was killed in a 3000-foot sliding fall. His sister Alice (17) and another climbing companion, Robert Buscho (24), a Portland firem...
In December 2009 and early January 2010, Alessandro Baù and I opened Fiducia al Sentiero (500m, 10 pitches, 7b+ [5.12c; 7a obligatory]) on Tatewari’s south wall. The route is a mix of bolts and trad: six pitches trad, with the rest having bolts...
On June 4, 1987, Charles Sassara (?) and Dave McGivern (?) were climbing up the icefall just to the north of Mount Johnson which is located in the Ruth Gorge. The pair was doing an alpine ascent from their base camp.About 500 meters above the glac...