North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, "Watermelon" and "Siffleur" Peaks

Publication Year: 1967.

"Watermelon” and "Siffleur" Peaks. Having packed in the previous day from the Jasper Highway via the Helen Creek trail over Dolomite Pass, on July 22 David Michael, Graham Matthews, Moses Goddard, Lynne Stearns, Rob Wallace and I made the first ascent of one of the higher unclimbed peaks of the Rockies. In a fit of absence of mind, I had carried a 10-pound watermelon to our campsite below Lake Alice. Judge Michael, being also of unsound mind, volunteered to carry this morsel to the summit of the nearest unclimbed peak, which lay directly east of camp. Our route went north around the lake and via the glacier draining the col to the southwest of our peak. We easily reached the col on firm snow in four hours and an hour later were on the summit, having traversed the southwest ridge and western snow slopes to gain the last few hundred feet. The rope was not really necessary at any point. On July 23 we headed directly north from Lake Alice up a steep snow basin to attain a ridge that extends south from a second unclimbed 10,000-foot peak, which we called "Siffleur” peak. Step kicking in the snow was excellent and soon we reached the ridge only two hours from camp. Traversing northward along the crest, we suffered the usual torments of the "rotten Rockies” and were finally forced to place one of our ropes as a fixed line in order to descend 100 feet of poor rock. Having passed this obstacle, we scampered up the last 800 feet of snow and slab to the summit.

William Lowell Putnam