FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, PLACED NO PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIESNew Hampshire, Cathedral LedgeOn September 17, 1980, a nearby resident heard calls for help coming from Cathedral Ledge. The Mountain Rescue Service was notified. When...

STRANDED – DID NOT CHECK FIXED ROPES, DEHYDRATION, FATIGUE, WEATHERCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Lost Arrow SpireLate fall in the Sierra Nevada had been mild, so in mid-December, Art (23), Robert (28), and Eric (22), all Yosemite locals, decided to...

Deep Gorge Country (“Three Parallel Rivers”: Salween, Mekong, Yangtze), exploration. My many voyages of discovery to what I call “East of the Himalaya-Alps of Tibet” were triggered by reading the enchanting narratives of Frank Kingdon-Ward, in whi...

OTHMAR GURTNER1895-1958Mountaineers and lovers of the heights all over the world will keenly feel the loss of Othmar Gurtner. As director and editor of the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research in Zurich, he was responsible for planning and publish...

Slick Rock, Scenic Traction. Slick Rock is a few miles northeast of McCall, about 100 miles north of Boise. This is a beautiful granite face, similar to the northwest face of Chief’s Head (RMNP, CO) in style and smoothness, with the same limited g...

CORNICE COLLAPSE, FALL ON SNOW, LOST EQUIPMENT, FROSTBITE, HYPOTHERMIA, CLIMBING ALONEAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 19, 1982, Tom Redfern (31) and Barney Dennen (19) of the Redfern Expedition to the West Buttress of McKinley were flown into 2200 me...

THE Moose’s Tooth, which lies in a majestic setting near Mount McKinley, is one of Alaska’s most spectacular mountains. It is a combination of Yosemite big walls, with heavily corniced ridges. “So convoluted is the topography of the Tooth, that ...

In the Foothills of the Karakoram HimalayaDave BohnThis is a story about a small village, 10,000 feet high in the mountains of Baltistan, West Pakistan. It is a very short story, but then, I lived there for only seventeen days. Yet, in that time I...

“Great Sail Peak,” Northwest Face, Rum, Sodomy, and the Lash. On May 18, I flew to the arctic village of Clyde River, Baffin Island, with Greg Child, Alex Lowe, Jared Ogden and David Hamlin. In Clyde, we met Gordon Wiltsie and John Catto, who had...

Longs Peak, Lower East Face, Endless Summer; Lower Chasm View Wall, The Invisible Wall, first free ascent. On July 31 Chip Chace and I completed Endless Summer (300m, V- 5.12- (5.11R)) on the Lower East Face of Longs Peak. This was the first free ...

FALL ON ROCK, WEATHER, EXPOSUREAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount TempleOn the morning of August 9, 1983, two climbers started up the east ridge of Mount Temple. MA. (30) had recently moved to Canada from Japan, and a female friend, M.Y. (31), was on...

This Was Mt. ParnassusUrsula CorningIT looked just like the ordinary little Greek village fountain, and the water gushed out of the most unromantic cheap spout. We were surrounded by the usual crowd of ubiquitous small Greek urchins, staring at us...

FALL ON ROCK, FALLING ROCK, FAILURE OF PITONNew York, ShawangunksA man (23) fell 12 meters to the ground from Wasp Stop (5.12) when a hold broke and a piton failed. He fractured his pelvis and some vertebrae. (Source: Brad Snyder)AnalysisWhile it ...

HENRY GRIER BRYANT 1859-1932In the passing of Henry Grier Bryant on December 7, 1932, in Philadelphia, the American Alpine Club loses a former President and one who ever maintained a keen interest in its activities.He was born in Allegheny, Pa., o...

Ranrapalca’s North Face, Cordillera BlancaMichael J. RourkeADMITTEDLY. ours is an enviable position. Few visitors to the Cordillera Blanca have had the opportunity to stay as long as they would have liked; for Curry Slaymaker, Murray Johns, and my...

Kichatna Spire, The Message or the Money. After three days of pulling on plastic, playing ping pong, and having a few too many in Talkeetna, Zack Smith and I finally caught a break in the weather for a flight into the Kichatna Spires. On May 26 we...

A.A.C. Southern California Section. The Section was active during the year on two fronts in terms of access and climbing regulation. The A.A.C. was invited to participate in the Climbers Advisory Committee, which is working with Joshua Tree Nation...

Nuptse’s West FaceUpping the ante in the Nepal Himalaya by TomaŽ Humar, Planinska zveza SlovenijeI left Slovenia for Nepal on September 10, the leader of an expedition to Pumori and Nuptse. Six days later we left the airport at Lukla and headed fo...

Auyuittuq National Park, various activities. Three Australians, Marcel Geelen, Geoff Butcher, and I spent six weeks in Auyuittuq National Park during June and July.A small prop plane was taken to the township of Pangnirtung, from where a skidoo wa...

Mt. Crillon: Mr. H. B. Washburn, Jr., who attacked this mountain after abandoning the idea of an attempt on Mt. Fair- weather because of the impossibility of landing an airplane on the lake at the foot of the Fairweather glacier, owing to the larg...