Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park. On 14 June, Jay DuPont (15) was climbing with two companions. He separated himself from the party. He had expressed a desire to slide down a rock face because he felt it would be fun and easier. The face was...
UNITED STATESFROSTBITE, DEHYDRATION, DAMP MITTENSAlaska, Iliamna VolcanoOn February 9,1985, Ken Zafron, George Rooney, Willie Hersman (34), and Rudi Bertschi (38) flew to the Tuxedni Glacier. They hoped to make the first winter ascent of Iliamna V...
AMSAlaska, Denali National Park, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn the evening of June 6, the Russian Denali Expedition requested the assistance of the NPS volunteer doctor at the 17,200-foot camp on the West Buttress of Mount McKinley because one m...
Broad Peak Attempt. Our expedition was led by Dr. Franz Berghold and composed of Günther Knauseder, Horst Schindlbacher, Peter and Wastl Wörgötter and me. We had the usual approach problems, such as porter strikes, lost baggage and swept-away brid...
Field Book: The Absaroka Range, Yellowstone Park by Orrin H. Bonney and Lorraine Bonney. Denver: Sage Books, 1963. 302 pages, ills., maps, supplement. Price $2.00.This Field Book employs the same layout found in the Field Book to the Teton Range b...
Kun. Our expedition made the difficult crossing of the Suru river on August 16. Fortunately we had a small pneumatic boat. We climbed the northeast ridge, the normal route. We placed Base Camp at 14,750 feet on the 18th, Camp I at 17,725 feet on t...
Kangchenjunga, Solo. I reached the top of Kangchenjunga solo without supplementary oxygen on October 18 after 33 days on the mountain. I shared the route to Camp I at 20,400 feet on the “Hump” with Polish and French expeditions, both climbing Yalu...
Montagne di Groenlandia, by Mario Fantin. Bologna: Tamari Editori, 1969. 374 pages, 280 photographs, 39 sketches and maps.Lovers of the Arctic mountain world will be happy to see this volume, the first actual book on the mountains of Greenland. Th...
Peaks above Chhutidum Glacier. Germans from Hannover and Hammeln, Peter Geihs, leader, Detlef and Hartmut Ahlbrecht and Tilman Spohr, ascended the Ushnu valley to the confluence of the Kotgaz and Chhutidum glaciers where Base Camp was established ...
Polish-Austrian Everest Attempt. Poles Tadeusz Karolczak and Aleksander Lwow and Austrian Helmut Putz originally wanted to climb the south pillar of Everest, but the Japanese set unacceptable conditions for making the Khumbu Icefall accessible to ...
Cordillera Central. The Frenchman D. Eichenbugeno and Manuel Bazán and Raúl Riesco, both from Santiago, entered the Barros Negros group of rock peaks located north of the mining village of Pérez Caldera in December 1971. From a base camp at 11,000...
Rurec, Caravaca Jubilar. After installing base camp in mid-July 2003 below Rurec (5,080m) and fixing the initial pitches, we began our first capsule-style attempt carrying food, water, and gear for three weeks. The team: Alfonso Cerdan Sandoval, m...
Thalay Sagar, High Tension. Russian alpinists Alexander Klenov, Alexey Bolotov, Mikhail Davy and Mikhail Pershin established a new route on the north face of Thalay Sagar (6904m). High Tension (ABO, 7b A3+, 1400m) takes a line up the rock buttress...
Potomac Appalachian Trail Club. The Mountaineering Section had one of its most active seasons in 1969. We had scheduled climbing trips every weekend throughout the year, and the Memorial Day weekend trip to the Shawangunks saw nearly 50 members ma...
Three Brothers, first ascent. Sailing aboard the yacht Pelagic, Alun Hughes, Skip Novak (captain of Pelagic), and I arrived at South Georgia with the aim of making a five-part series on sailing, climbing, and the history of wildlife on the island ...
Malubiting. A Japanese expedition from Kyoto was led by Mitsugi Koyama. Their attempt to climb Malubiting (24,451 feet) was given up when on May 24 two Pakistani porters, Hidayat Shah and Arab Khan, were swept by an avalanche for 2000 feet down to...
Pisco and Tocllaraju. French climbers were active in the Llanganuco. On August 20 Alexi Lucchesi, Jean and Aimée Germanaz, Jacques Lambre and Peruvian Felipe Mautino climbed Pisco. The same peak was also climbed by Manks Wiliam and his wife, and b...
Cerro Torre. Dan Cauthorn and I departed Chaltén on January 3 and began the long, arduous trudge to the west side of the Torres. Enduring winds seldom blew less than 60-mph and frequently gusted to 100-mph. After establishing Base Camp on January ...
STRANDED, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPEDNew Hampshire, Cathedral LedgeIn January of 1989, a man (25) became stranded on Cathedral Ledge, feeling he could not go up or down. He yelled to someone on the ground to lower a rope, but he had no rope. So the...
Ningchin Kangsha. Ningchin Kangsha, which used to be given by G.O. Dyhrenfurth as Nodzin Kangsan with an altitude of 7252 meters, lies southwest of Lhasa on the highway from Lhasa to Kathmandu, two kilometers from the Lalo La. It was climbed by a ...