Chacraraju South Face Solo, 1979. The French climber Yves Astier made a new route solo on the south face of Chacraraju on May 24, 1979. The route ascended the couloir to the right of the one ascended in 1977 by John Bouchard and Marie-Odile Meunie...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, POOR POSITION, INEXPERIENCE and AVALANCHE (TWO SEPARATE ACCIDENTS)Alberta, Banff National Park, Cascade WaterfallThese two serious accidents are reported together because they happened on the same climb within m...
Japanese Alpinists in the HimalayaI. THE FIRST ASCENT OF CHOGOLISAProf. Takeo KuwabaraThe Academic Alpine Club of Kyoto went on an expedition to Chogolisa (7.654 m.; 25,0 ft.), in the Karakoram, in the summer of 958 and succeeded in the ascent of ...
Chicago Mountaineering Club, 1947. The Needle Mountains of the San Juan Range, in southwestern Colorado, was the location for the 2nd Annual Outing of the Chicago Mountaineering Club, 5-16 August 1947. Thirty-eight members and guests met in Durang...
Static Slab, Mount Stickney Area. On May 18 Dave Johnson, Dave Pickard and I made the first ascent of the Static Slab on Static Peak, some two miles north of Mount Stickney. It is an excellent 800- to 1000-foot quartz diorite buttress with many po...
Charles Snead Houston 1913–2009I have always felt there was a kind of classical Grecian quality about Charlie’s life. This was perhaps best expressed by Charlie’s and my boss, the great Walter Paepcke, founder of the Container Corporation of Ameri...
Some Yosemite Rock-ClimbsWilliam Shand, Jr.ALTHOUGH nearly all the major summits of Yosemite had been ascended prior to 1900, it was not until 1934 that serious modern rock-climbing was undertaken in the valley. Since that time members of the Sier...
Freedom Climbers. Bernadette McDonald. Rocky Mountain Books, 2011. 352 pages. Color photos. Hardcover. $29.95.In Freedom Climbers Bernadette McDonald tells the story of the Golden Age of Polish Himalayan mountaineering, much of it done in winter: ...
Mountaineering Summary and Statistics, 2000. During the 2000 mountaineering season, 172 people comprised 45 separate expeditions within Kluane’s Icefield Ranges. These parties spent a total of 2,790 person-days in the park. In spite of significant...
Davis Peak, North Face, Southern Pickets. Andy Cairns and I made a difficult approach to the northern cirque of this outlier of the southern Pickets. The actual rock climbing, gaining 4000 feet, was delightful, as the numerous handholds buoyed us ...
At the Rising of the Moon. Dermot Somers. Baton Wicks, London. 208 pages. Paperback.Most climbing literature comes from climbers who write. Dermot Somers, however, sounds like a writer who also happens to climb. The distinction turns on two factor...
The Tenth Mountain DivisionA Successful ExperimentAlbert H. JackmanTHE 10th Mt. Division was a good division, but many others with inferior training and equipment suffered more casualties, fought more campaigns, and killed or captured more Germans...
Notchtop area, Special K; and Forbidden Peak, Garmar. On June 24 Krista Javoronok and I climbed a new route on the smaller spire to the right of Notchtop. Special K (600', III 5.10b) climbs this spire in six pitches. The route starts in the middle...
Changabang, South Ridge. Our expedition consisted of Renato Lingua, leader, Ugo Manera, Lino Castiglia, Isidoro Meneghin, Alessandro Zuccon, Roberto Bonis, Pietro Crivellaro, Dr. Giuseppe Rocca and me. Starting on September 23 we took a week to pr...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIESWashington, North Cascades, Cutthroat PeakAt 6:00 a.m. on July 17, five climbers started on the South Buttress of Cutthroat Peak. It was clear and warm. The climb started across a snow basin ...
Brotherhood of the Rope: the Biography of Charlie Houston. Bernadette McDonald. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2007. Hardcover $34.95; paperback $18.95.Most contemporary climbers know the name Charles Houston, but many aren’t sure where or when ...
Mustagh Tower, Northwest Ridge, Attempt. This summer a team of four attempted the Northwest Ridge of Mustagh Tower and reached a high point of about 21,100 feet. Conditions were characterized by abnormally deep snow cover and frequent stormy weath...
Tatina Spire, Groundhog Day, and Mt. Haffner, attempt. British climbers Mark Reeves and Steve Sinfield visited the Tatina Glacier for a short stay in late May and June. Having waited five days in Talkeetna for the weather to improve enough to risk...
HIKER DISAPPEAREDOregon, Broken TopOn August 10, Danny Curran (24) left his younger brother at their Green Lakes pack-in campsite late in the day, saying he was going to climb Broken Top, the snow capped mountain summit just one and a half miles d...
Milton Mount McKinley Range ExpeditionGlaciological Research on the North Fork of the Eldridge GlacierH. Adams Carter and David L. Atherton"Science be hanged!" I stated flatly, expressing in one terse sentence the sentiments of the Non-Scientists....