FALL ON ROCK, FALLING ROCKNew York, ShawangunksHugh Herr (18) was trying a new 5.11 route on Sky Top Route when a hold broke. He fell three meters to the ground and had to be taken to the factory, as both his artificial legs were in need of repair...
Andes: The German expedition to the Cordillera Blanca of Peru has resulted in, beside the scientific and mapping work accomplished, the first ascent of the south (highest) peak of Huascaran (22,182 ft.), on July 20, 1932, by Dr. Bernard, Phillip B...
Shivling Attempts. During the spring Calvin Torrans, Edward Cooper, Alan Currans and I attempted two routes on Shivling. We first tried the unclimbed northwest face, spending five days on it before retreating because of persistent heavy snowfall. ...
Gurja Himal Ascent and Tragedy. Our joint Rumanian-Nepalese expedition, which hoped to climb Gurja Himal by the south face and southeast ridge over Komban (6567 meters), set up Base Camp at 3100 meters on the Tareja Khola on April 26. We reconnoit...
Bandarpunch Group. Indian climbers were active in the Bandarpunch group. Kala Nag (6387 meters, 20,956 feet) was climbed by Shyamar Krishna Karag’s and by Sanat Ghosh’s expeditions. Bandarpunch I (6302 meters, 20,676 feet) was ascended by climbers...
Baruntse Attempts. There was an unsuccessful British attempt on the southeast ridge of Baruntse led by Andrew Wigley. They reached 6860 meters on May 3. Spaniards led by Luis Miguel Montero got to 7100 meters on the same route, apparently less tha...
Torre Norte del Paine, Corn Wall. After a failed attempt on the east face of Cerro Torre, we returned to the Paine Towers. On February 15, Leigh McGinley, Celia Bull and I ascended a new route on the southwest spur of the west face of the Torre No...
Gasherbrum II Ascent and Tragedy. We were Javier Bermejo, Xabier Erro, Pili Ganuza de Goñi, Javier Garayoa, José Miguel Goñi, Anxton Ibarguren, Agustín Pagola and I. Having left Dassu on June 26, we got to Base Camp on July 5. Contrary to predicti...
Sierra Nevada de Cocuy. A seven-man expedition left Cambridge University in June for the Sierra Nevada de Cocuy, a range of mountains in the Cordillera Oriental, 200 miles northeast of Bogotá. Our aim was to split up on arrival at a base into thre...
Mt. Conway, 10,170 ft. First ascent, July 7. E. Cromwell, J. M. Thorington, P. Kaufmann. From Skene-Strahan col by way of Conway snowfield and lateral glacier of west flank to south rock arête. Several difficult steps are then ascended in reaching...
Mount Cruiser, Southeast Face. On August 27 Paul Karkiainen and I climbed the southeast face of Mount Cruiser direct from its lowest point. The face is about 300 feet high, steep and unbroken but with adequate holds. The longest lead went 140 feet...
Alberta, Banff National Park, Mt. St. Piran. On 16 July Dennis Sadler, Patricia Greenlaw, Alice Hryak, and Dianne Fowler planned to traverse the Lake Agnes trail (a recognized hiking trail) to the summit of the pass between Mt. Niblock and Mt. St....
Keeping the facts straight on Minya Konka. My comment has been invited on the statement in the book The Conquest of Minya Konka by Shih Chan-Chun, Peking, 1959, which on page 53 reads as follows in reference to our 1932 Minya Konka expedition. “Th...
Huantsán, Western Summit and Other Peaks. In July John Tarver and Kevin Starr climbed to the western summit of Huantsán up the north-facing ice slope between the main and west summits. They set out from the Laguna Tambillo in the Quebrada Rajucolt...
Peaks Above Darrah-i-Mulaw (Japanese). The Akita expedition was made up of Kenji Hirasawa, leader, Akio Shoji, Yutaro Fujiwara, Yuicho Osato, Masaki Kaneda and Masaaki Hatakeyama. They climbed in the Darrah-i-Mulaw, which appears as “Toghw”. They ...
Tharkot. After an expedition of the Climbers Club from Bombay, in May had been carried down in an avalanche from a point just above their high camp on Tharkot (20,010 feet), they abandoned their attempt. Later in the year the Mountaineers Club als...
Mera Northeast Ridge. Our six-member expedition hoped to climb the north face of Mera. Base Camp was established on September 24 beside the Dig Glacier at 4580 meters. We were to climb alpine-style on whatever routes we saw fit. Briton Dave Hudson...
Nilgiri South and Annapurna Attempts. An expedition composed of five Japanese, four Slovaks and a Frenchman was led by Shunji Takegawa. They tried the east ridge from the north on Nilgiri South and the Dutch route on the north face of Annapurna. O...
North Face of Shadow Peak, July 24, 1950. On this 500-foot face some very difficult climbing was encountered by Bob and Doris Merriam and Leigh Ortenburger, one pitch requiring direct aid.
River Road (Scenic Byway 128). Dave Glouderman rope soloed the 5.9 tower high above the River Road at Mile Post 6 in December.