Mount Everest, Attempts, Ascents, and Tragedies in the Post-Monsoon. This autumn was the first major season (spring or autumn) since the spring of 1987 that no one was on the South Col route. Four Nepalese permits had been granted, two for the Col...
Colorado Mountain Club. The Club’s annual outing for 1951 was held in the Tetons, with 60 in attendance. The Exum route on the Grand was the most popular—26 ascents. Five members of the Club participated in the successful expedition which made a n...
Cordillera Apolobamba, 1981. From July 10 to 12, 1981 Alberto Campanile, Giuseppe Pierantoni, Giambisi, Della Fina and I climbed the three main summits, P 5430 (17,815 feet), P 5380 (17,651 feet) and P 5340 (17,848 feet), in the long snow ridge be...
Mount Stuart, Northwest Couloir. In early May, Lee Cunningham and I snowshoed once again up Mountaineer Creek. Our objective this trip was the oft-tried couloir between the north ridge and the northwest face routes of Mount Stuart. Our theory was ...
Everest in the Pre-Monsoon. On Everest this spring there fortunately was no such dramatic disaster as the fatal storm of May 1996, although the Internet and other communications media led the public to believe there was. Sadly, a total of eight pe...
Mount Sill, East Face, Dead Larry’s Pillar, Left Side. In August, Kent Davenport, David Wilson and I climbed a new route on the 1400-foot high east face of this spectacular mountain. Our route ascended the left side of a prominent pillar on the so...
Chisana Mountains. My wife Lena and I climbed in this range, some 70 miles south of the Alaska Highway, close to the Yukon border, to which we had access by plane. It is a nice wilderness area but not too interesting from a climbing point of view....
Menthosa. A group of seven Austrians under the leadership of Günther Gruber explored the northeastern approaches to Menthosa up the Miyar Nala but could not find a good route. They turned to the standard southeast route. They placed camps at 17,00...
Gokan Sar, An Italian expedition was made up of Carlo Alberto Pinelli, Guido Machetto, Emilio Caruso and Duilio Fiorini. They ascended the Golen Koh valley until they ascended the Sakchioku Glacier to place Base Camp at 13,800 feet. There were two...
Everest Attempt and Tragedy. I led an international group of 25 to try the normal route on Mount Everest. Aside from our climbing objectives, we had three physicians who carried out high-altitude medical research. Because the weather was so good a...
Aconcagua. Fine weather permitted us to climb Aconcagua by the regular north-slope route in four days from Base Camp at Plaza de Mulas (14,000 feet). No one suffered from altitude sickness thanks to our program of acclimatization: Day 1: by train ...
Gya, Second Ascent. Gya ( 6794m), at the tri-junction of Himachal, Jammu and Kashmir and Tibet, had received eight expeditions but had no ascents, either due to misidentification or bad weather. The Indian Mountaineering Federation organized its s...
Stanford Alpine Club. The club continues to emphasize technical rock climbing through weekly local practice climbs. On these climbs beginners are taught the fundamental rules of climbing and safety. More experienced members are able to practice sp...
Quitaraju. Our expedition was made up of Bart Sloof, Rudolf Trouw, Bert Maas, Louis Berger, Jan Warnaars and me. From Base Camp in the Quebrada Santa Cruz, we had two objectives: Alpamayo via the north ridge and Quitaraju. We divided into two grou...
FALL ON ROCK, FOOT CAUGHT IN “QUICKDRAW,” INATTENTION New Mexico, Cochita MesaOn December 28, 1989, Cameron Burns (24) fell from the third bolt on Praise the Lunge (5.11b). As he fell, his foot got caught in the “Quickdraw” on the second bolt, cau...
State Highway 313. Sunset Tower up the road from Dead Horse Point and the Island-in-the-Sky district of Canyonland National Park (nine miles north of Moab) was climbed at 5.6, C2 by Mike Baker and Leslie Henderson. The team also established routes...
A.A.C., New York Section. In retrospect 1984 was perhaps the busiest year in the history of the New York Section. Members received invitations to more than a dozen events, ranging from slide shows to climbing outings to barbecues and the tradition...
Nun. A commercial Spanish expedition reached the summit of Nun (7135 meters, 23,410 feet) by the normal route, the northwest ridge. They established Camp I at 5400 meters and then fixed 800 meters of rope between there and Camp II at 6200 meters. ...
Mountain MedicinePerformance-enhancing drugs and climbingGeoff Tabin, MD, and Scott McIntosh, MSIn 1953, Hermann Buhl staggered off the summit of Nanga Parbat in the final stages of exhaustion. He was alone. Darkness was closing in. Clouds swirled...
East Face of Mount HuntingtonRobb Kimbrough, ColoradoEVEN THE BAD WEATHER doesn’t dampen our enthusiasm as John Tuckey and I arrive in Talkeetna on April 13. After all, we are here to make our bid for the big time. Throughout our climbing careers ...