University of Washington Mountaineering Club. Membership in this new club is now 35 and still growing. In the spring the Club sponsors two trips a month. Unscheduled trips took members to the Cashmere Crags, where several first ascents and new rou...
Half Dome, Northwest Buttress. In September 1969, Bob Jensen and I climbed the northwest buttress of Half Dome. The route starts several hundred feet north of the regular northwest-face route at the left edge of an arch about 450 feet high. Mixed ...
George Dunn and I made the second ascent of the 2000-foot north face of Little Tahoma, twenty years after the original Prater-Mahre climb. Our January 8 climb was accomplished under extremely cold conditions which left the face heavily iced. No ro...
North Howser Tower, West Face, New Route. On August 8-10, Cameron Tague, 29, and Eric Greene, 32, both from Boulder, Colorado, took advantage of three days of cloudless skies to establish a new route on the 2,800-foot west face of the North Howser...
Rakaposhi. The Irish Himalayan Expedition consisted of P. O’Leary, leader, G. Garrett, E. Goulding, T. Kavanagh, B. O’Flynn, S. Payne and myself. Captain Rafi Mohn was liaison officer and we had four Hunza high-altitude porters. After arriving at ...
Annapurna I. Our eleven-man team, celebrating the 75th jubilee of the Royal Dutch Alpine Club climbed a new and safe route on the north face of Annapurna (26,545 feet). On October 13 the summit was reached by Mathieu van Rijswick and Sherpa Sona...
Alpamayo Norte. On June 17 R.J. Campbell, Carson and Lynn Black and I left Huaraz for the Quebrada de los Cedros. It took us three days to reach Laguna Jancarurish via Hacienda Colcas. Leaving Lynn to tend Base Camp, we three men set out with five...
Alpamayo, Southeast Face, and Quitaraju. The Yugoslav Alpamayo Expedition reached Base Camp at 14,275 feet above the Quebrada Santa Cruz below Alpamayo on May 23. During the first week they recon- noitered the passes to the south and east and disc...
Huayanay V, 1981, Cordillera Vilcabamba. In 1976 the Scottish expedition to the Huayanay Range indicated that three peaks remained unclimbed, namely Huayanay III (Nevado Palchaioj), Huayanay V (Huayallabamba) and Nevado Esquina. It appeared that H...
Baboquivari Peak, Cloud Man Got Angry. In March Jackie Carroll and I added a four-pitch variation, Cloud Man Got Angry, to Born of Water. The variation is definitely a better alternative. Start 30 feet right of Born of Water and slightly downhill,...
P 5445, Ascent and Tragedy. It was reported that a British team of Mick Davie and Joanna Newton experienced a tragic end to their climbing vacation when Davie died because of a collapsing cornice near the summit of the unclimbed P 5445. On July 18...
Jack Mountain, East Ridge. On a weekend excursion to Jack Mountain, my brother Carl and I climbed this route. From a high camp below the southeast ridge, a traverse was made across the east glacier to gain the ridge. The climb offered a straightfo...
Portillo and Pangal districts. Among the more important activities for the 1969-1970 local season (December through March) are the following climbs. The rock peak of Caracoles (4510 meters, 14,797 feet), located near the ski resort of Portillo, wa...
Broad Peak, Alpine Style. After two weeks of completing formalities in Rawalpindi, on May 15 Georges Bettembourg and I, accompanied by Gilles Sourice, movie photographer, and Dr. Jean Fauchard, left Skardu. It took us twelve days to reach Base Cam...
Nepalese Himalaya, Various Activity in the Post-Monsoon Season. On Ama Dablam, 72 climbers from all but one of 12 teams summitted via the same narrow southwest ridge; there were so many people on the ridge that they had to pitch their tents at odd...
Mount Russell, Sbruno-Sbruski Route. In August, Scott Ayers and I climbed a six-pitch crack system on the south face, to the right of the south buttress. (III, 5.10.) (Editor’s note—This route and the preceding one are undoubtedly very close to on...
Mount Blackburn, Wrangell Mountains. There were two expeditions on Mount Blackburn (16,523 feet). The Mountaineering Association of Daito City was composed of Tadanobu Yokoyama, leader, Toshiyuki Shinto and four others. From Base Camp at 7700 feet...
Peak 11,520', The Flame. After a brief reconnaissance up the Northwest Fork of the Tokositna and a week of bad weather, on May 6 Seth Hobby and I cast off onto what we believe is a new route on the north face of Peak 11,520', one of two peaks alon...
Mulkila IV and Koa Rong I, Lahul, 1979. A (British) Royal Air Force and Indian Air Force expedition led by Wing Commander N.W. Ridley climbed Mulkila IV (21,380 feet, 6517 meters) and Koa Rong I (20,201 feet, 6157 meters) in September 1979. There ...
Valhalla Range, Southern Selkirks. The Kootenay Mountaineering Club established a climbing camp at Mulvey Meadows (6600 feet) from August 1 to 8. Dunnage, food and prefabricated hut sections were flown in from Slocan by helicopter. We erected the ...