Annapurna I. Our eleven-man team, celebrating the 75th jubilee of the Royal Dutch Alpine Club climbed a new and safe route on the north face of Annapurna (26,545 feet). On October 13 the summit was reached by Mathieu van Rijswick and Sherpa Sonam. Base Camp was established on September 6 and Camp I on the 9th, both at the traditional locations at 14,450 and 16,725 feet. Camp II was set up at 19,000 feet at a level slightly lower than that of the French first ascent, a location relatively free from avalanche danger. The new route follows a prominent rib left (east) of the “Sickle” gully. It is the ridge immediately to the right of the séracs crossed by the Spaniards in 1974 on their way to the east peak. We fixed rope along its entire length (from 19,700 to 21,650 feet). Camp III was set up near its end at 21,325 feet on September 30, having been moved up from its provisional site at 20,675 feet. On October 1 a provisional Camp IV was established at 22,475 feet. Heavy snowfall caused a retreat to Camp II, but on October 9 the high point was reached again. As time was running out, we decided not to move Camp IV higher. Instead Camp V was set up the next day at 24,125 feet. On October 12 Mathieu van Rijswick and sirdar Mingma Tenzing made a summit bid which ended 650 feet below the top. The following day brought success. Oxygen was used for sleeping at Camp V and for climbing above 25,000 feet. Both Mingma Tenzing and Sonam joined in lead climbing. The members were Jan van Banning, Charles Bonhomme, Maarten Briët, Eelco Dijk, Henk Hovinga, Paul Hopster, Gerard Jansen, Mathieu van Rijswick and I as leader.

Xander Verrijn-Stuart, Koninklijke Nederlandsche Alpenvereniging