FALL ON ROCK, WEATHER, EXPOSUREAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount TempleOn the morning of August 9, 1983, two climbers started up the east ridge of Mount Temple. MA. (30) had recently moved to Canada from Japan, and a female friend, M.Y. (31), was on...

This Was Mt. ParnassusUrsula CorningIT looked just like the ordinary little Greek village fountain, and the water gushed out of the most unromantic cheap spout. We were surrounded by the usual crowd of ubiquitous small Greek urchins, staring at us...

FALL ON ROCK, FALLING ROCK, FAILURE OF PITONNew York, ShawangunksA man (23) fell 12 meters to the ground from Wasp Stop (5.12) when a hold broke and a piton failed. He fractured his pelvis and some vertebrae. (Source: Brad Snyder)AnalysisWhile it ...

HENRY GRIER BRYANT 1859-1932In the passing of Henry Grier Bryant on December 7, 1932, in Philadelphia, the American Alpine Club loses a former President and one who ever maintained a keen interest in its activities.He was born in Allegheny, Pa., o...

Ranrapalca’s North Face, Cordillera BlancaMichael J. RourkeADMITTEDLY. ours is an enviable position. Few visitors to the Cordillera Blanca have had the opportunity to stay as long as they would have liked; for Curry Slaymaker, Murray Johns, and my...

Kichatna Spire, The Message or the Money. After three days of pulling on plastic, playing ping pong, and having a few too many in Talkeetna, Zack Smith and I finally caught a break in the weather for a flight into the Kichatna Spires. On May 26 we...

A.A.C. Southern California Section. The Section was active during the year on two fronts in terms of access and climbing regulation. The A.A.C. was invited to participate in the Climbers Advisory Committee, which is working with Joshua Tree Nation...

Nuptse’s West FaceUpping the ante in the Nepal Himalaya by TomaŽ Humar, Planinska zveza SlovenijeI left Slovenia for Nepal on September 10, the leader of an expedition to Pumori and Nuptse. Six days later we left the airport at Lukla and headed fo...

Auyuittuq National Park, various activities. Three Australians, Marcel Geelen, Geoff Butcher, and I spent six weeks in Auyuittuq National Park during June and July.A small prop plane was taken to the township of Pangnirtung, from where a skidoo wa...

Mt. Crillon: Mr. H. B. Washburn, Jr., who attacked this mountain after abandoning the idea of an attempt on Mt. Fair- weather because of the impossibility of landing an airplane on the lake at the foot of the Fairweather glacier, owing to the larg...

Carnets du Vertige. Louis Lachenal. Editions Guérin: Chamonix, 1996. Profusely illustrated with black-and-white photographs, maps, sketches. 378 pages. 324 French francs.Michel Guérin, a new Chamonix-based editor specializing in mountain books, ha...

Schweizerland, Tupilak north face, Lessons in Humility. Before we left, Al Powell, the ultimate expert on East Greenland, told us: “If you’re going to need fixed ropes, then leave the face up to someone who can climb it properly.” Al had made an a...

1951-001959-0020012001USACAN.USACAN.TerrainRock38444661108Snow2199330315Ice211118119River13300Unknown22800Ascent or DescentAscent243850111515Descent2080342325Unknown247502OtherN.B.0050Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock2678253903Slip on snow or ic...

Siula Antecima, Mis Amigos. In August Italians Silvano Arrigoni, Lorenzo Festorazzi, Eugenio Galbani, and Franco Melesi made the first ascent of what they have called Siula Antecima, the ca 5,550m rocky summit that stands immediately in front of t...

LIGHTNING, POOR POSITION-LATE STARTWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonOn July 26 at 1535, lightning struck and fatally injured Erica Summers (27) while climbing the Exum Ridge of the Grand Teton. This single lightning strike traveled d...

High Mountain Peaks in China—Newly Opened to Foreigners. Chinese Mountaineering Association. The People’s Sports Publishing House of China and The Tokyo Shimbun Publishing Bureau of Japan, 1981. 45 pages in English and 151 in Japanese, black and w...

Mlema 3, African Light, Second Ascent. In September, we left for South Africa with the aim of climbing in northern Mozambique. The rumors we had heard said something about magnificent granite domes scattered in the vast plateau of Nampula, Mozambi...

Chilean Patagonia, first ascents. Piloting his green Hilux like a rally car driver, Jim Donini told me, “I already have our first objective picked out. It’s the most impressive thing on this side of the lake.” The peak came into view, and I got th...

Climbs in the Lingti Valley, Spiti. The Lingti valley lies northeast of Kaza, west of Tibet’s Pare Chu valley and south of Ladakh’s Rupshu district. Without a trade route to Tibet or Rupshu, local villagers do not venture into this valley. In 1983...

FALL ON SNOW-UNABLE TO SELF-ARRESTWashington, Mount Rainier, Gibraltar LedgesOn June 10 about 0600, Mike Beery (29) and Ryan Tillman were climbing the Gibraltar Ledges route on Mount Rainier. Having just exited the ledges and entered Gibraltar Chu...