FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONAlberta, Jasper National Park, Mount Andromeda, Practice GulliesOn June 4, two climbers left the climber’s parking lot at 0500 enroute to the Practice Gullies (III) on Mount Andromeda. These inappropriately named ...
Spider Mountain, North Face. A climb of the hook-shaped snow finger leading directly to the summit.
FALL ON ROCKNew Hampshire, Iron MountainOn June 12, 1983, three hikers were descending from Iron Mountain when one of them got too close to the edge of a cliff and fell 100 meters to a ledge. (Source: Rick Wilcox. New Hampshire Mountain Rescue Ser...
Appalachian Mountain Club. Growth in almost all phases of A.M.C. activity dominated its 88th year: membership showed the greatest gain in history with a net increase of 627 for a total of 8,858 members at year end; so many persons showed up for th...
Renamed Nepalese Peaks. On January 1, 1983 the Nepalese government considered renaming a number of peaks and geographical features, but this is not yet official.Past NamePresent NamePast NamePresent NameCross PeakTaple ShikharLady’s PeakGumba Chul...
Mischief Goes South, by H. W. Tilman. London: Hollis & Carter, 1968. 190 pages, 18 photographs, 3 maps. Price: 30s.Mischief Goes South is the fifth in a series of sea narratives by this mountaineer turned sailor. Tilman, whose distinguished mo...
It was reported that Spanish climbers Sílvia Vidal and Pep Masip established Veus del Desert (6b+ A4+, ten pitches) on the middle of the southeast face of the south summit of the 400-meter Suri Tondo. The first five pitches were almost entirely ai...
In April, Tory Dugan, Jason Kwiatkowski, and I began a month-long kite-assisted ski expedition with a goal of traveling from the Hubbard Glacier to the Miles Glacier, a distance of nearly 200 miles. We skied many couloirs and features along our ro...
Mazamas. Unusually good weather gave The Mazamas of Portland, Oregon, the opportunity to start 140 climbs during the 1965 season, with 1902 individual ascents resulting. New summits to the club were Mounts Garfield and Washington, Wilmon Peak, Klo...
North Twin, north face, House-Prezelj. In early April 2004 American Steve House and Slovenian Marko Prezelj made the third ascent (Lowe-Jones, 1974; Blanchard-Cheesmond, 1985) of the daunting 4,500' north face of North Twin, one of the great prize...
Stanford Coast Range Expedition, 1954NICHOLAS B. CLINCHAt noon, June 25th, Bill Fisk, chief pilot for Kenmore Air Harbor, Inc., landed his red Norseman float plane so gently on the waters of Dumbell (Ghost) lake that his seven passengers never kne...
In mid-April photographer Corey Rich asked if I wanted to join a 10-day climbing trip in the Brooks Range with the man himself, Tommy Caldwell. How could I say no? The trip came together last minute, and we didn’t even know where we were going...
Watkins Bjerge and Gunnbjorns Fjeld areas, first ascent claims. As a frequent visitor to Greenland (10 expeditions) perhaps I can offer some corrections and additional information that might clarify claims of ascents in the region of Gunnbjorns Fj...
FALL INTO CREVASSE—INADEQUATE PROTECTION, WEATHER AND STRANDED—WEATHER, EXPOSURE—HYPOTHERMIAWashington, Mount Rainier, Ingraham GlacierOn June 6, Mount Rainier Climbing rangers responded to two mountaineering accidents on the Ingraham Direct Glaci...
Trango Pulpit, More Czech, Less Slovak. In July, the Czech/Slovak expedition consisting of Ivo Wondrácek, Tomáš Rinn, Pavel Weisser and Michal Drašar (all Czech) left Prague June 18. Jaroslav Dutka from Slovakia had problems with his transit visas...
Colorado Mountain Club. “All aboard for the Great South Circle Trip! Great North Circle Trip and Hall’s Spires leave tomorrow at 7:29 A.M. promptly! Mt. Bonneville on Thursday, rain or shine.” No, not the announcer at Grand Central. This comes fro...
Tirich Mir, Attempt from North. The Fukuoka Mountaineering Association Expedition to Tirich Mir was composed of Daisuke Suematsu, leader, Isao Shinkai, Yasushi Matsumoto, Seiji Tsuruta, Shozo Sano, Tsuguo Tsuruhisa, Yasuzo Fukada, Tokachi Uemura, ...
FALL ON SNOW/ICE, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS, INADEQUATEEQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCENew Hampshire, Mount Washington, Pipeline GullyOn March 9, Robert Douglas (39), John Corse (38), and Colin O’Farrell (23) became involved in a situation requiring climbing ...
ORRIN HANNING BONNEY 1903-1979The American Alpine Club and the mountaineering fraternity of the American Rockies lost a staunch supporter when Orrin H. Bonney succumbed to a heart attack on June 28, 1979 as he was preparing for his annual trip fro...
The North Ridge of Mt. KennedyIn 1968, four young men pitted themselves against one of North America’s greatest challenges. Nearly 30 years later, they tell their story.by Todd S. ThompsonDavid Seidman and I walked into Brad Washburn’s light-fille...