"Shan Tower" Directly west of Squaretop, Bill Nicolai and I climbed a prominent tower at the north side of the head of a previously unvisited hanging valley. We called it “Shan Tower”. We began in a rotten chimney on the northeast side and travers...

STRANDEDAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount TempleAt 0400 on July 27, 1987, two climbers (both about 30) left their bivouac at the base of the North Face of Mount Temple to begin climbing the Northeast Buttress. By evening they reached a large overhan...

Makalu Attempt. An Italian expedition of 11 was led by Almo Giambisi. They first wanted to repeat the Czechoslovakian route up the southeast buttress and reached 6800 meters on September 19. Strong winds forced them down the mountain and they wait...

Dhaulagiri VI, Gurja Himal and Ghustang North. A nine-man expedition, led by Shin Young-Chul, climbed both Dhaulagiri VI and Gurja Himal. Camp IV was placed at 6750 meters on the south ridge of Dhaulagiri VI on September 25 and the next day Shim B...

Dhaulagiri. After the Swiss failed to climb Dhaulagiri (26,811 feet) in 1953, Andre Roch declared, “Success on this peak seems a nearly hopeless undertaking. Dhaulagiri appears climbable, yes, but the risks are much too great.” The Argentines, how...

Copa Norte. On July 31, 1972 the Germans Wolfgang Nairz and Raimund Margreiter climbed the northern summit (20,353 feet) of Copa, which is about 100 feet lower than the south summit. They made most of this ascent, which had been done before, and t...

Olavtoppen (774m), first true ascent. The sub-Antarctic island of Bouvetoya is the most isolated piece of land on the planet, 1,740km from Antarctica and 2,600km from South Africa. Surrounded by rough seas and subject to severe weather, the island...

FALL ON ROCKColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn July 17, my partner Eric Baer (23) and I (William Esposito, 27) began climbing the Stettner’s Ledges Route (5.7+) on the east face of Longs Peak. On approximately the fourth pitch, I...

Saribung, a.k.a. Seliben (6,328m), first ascent. During October, Peter Ackroyd, Steve Furman, and I made the first ascent of this peak north of the Annapurnas. In 2002, while making the first ascent of 6,152m Gaugiri further north in the Damodar, ...

K2, Mexican-New Zealander-Swedish Attempt and Tragedy. A ten-member international expedition was composed of Mexicans Ricardo Torres, leader, Héctor Ponce de León, Adrián Benítez and Berta Ramírez, New Zealanders Rob Hall, Gary Ball and Marty Schm...

Le Grigne, by Silvio Saglio. 12 mo., 492 pages, 8 maps, 88 drawings and 56 photographs. Published by the Italian Alpine Club and the Italian Touring Club. 1937.An interesting and well-written guidebook describing that group of mountains which lies...

Between October 16 and November 3 David Kinsella (Australia), Arun Mahajan (India and US), and I explored mountains on the east side of the Thangsing Valley, climbing three summits as alpine-style one-day routes. This area, which we have named the...

Ski Traverses, Mount Logan, St. Elias, Steele, Hubbard, Alverstone, Icefield Ranges. During the 1981 climbing season there were 19 groups, made up of 95 men and women, climbing and skiing in the Icefield Ranges of Kluane National Park. During the ...

Accounts from the various climbs and expeditions of the world are listed geographically from north to south and from west to east within the noted countries. We begin our coverage with the Contiguous United States and move to Alaska in order for t...

Mount McKinley and Denali National Park and Preserve Mountaineering Summary, 1983. The two climbers successfully reached the top of a difficult first ascent in the Alaska Range, but their luck ran out on the descent. After a serious fall where inj...

FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HAT, PROTECTION PULLED, INEXPERIENCEOntario, Milton, Kelso CragsOn Sunday, August 15 P.D. (36) of Tonawanda, New York, began leading a 5.3 one-pitch route. He placed only sparse protection. Part way up, he switched to a nearb...

The email read, “Bob, do you know where there are any big walls to climb in Greenland? We did some on Mt. Asgard in Baffin last summer and would like to do some in Greenland in 2011.”To which I responded, “Well, yes I do know where there are some ...

Yoho-Waputik Icefield. The Guidebook describes inadequately the southern portion of the Yoho-Waputik group containing the approaches to and routes on Mts. Niles and Daly.Trail to Sherbrooke Lake starts from the highway immediately W. of the Wapta ...

Ndoto LogisticsAdvice to climbers headed for the Ngurunit Valley and beyond.Marnix BuonajutiThe major cliffs vary in their distance from the village of Ngurunit. This is important because Ngurunit provides your supply of food and water. The closes...

Sean Patrick 1951–2009Sean Patrick, founder of the HERA Women’s Cancer Foundation, died of complications related to ovarian cancer on January 20 at Aspen Valley Hospital in Colorado. Patrick was loved by many, and her passion for saving the lives ...