The Folly. Just east of Rixon’s pinnacle is a huge 800-foot-high exfoliation flake separated only at the top. The first ascent of this "spire” was made in September by James Bridwell and myself in 10 hours of very strenuous climbing. The first 3 l...

The Mountain InstituteSummary of 2002 activities. The Mountain Institute (www.mountain.org) is a non-profit organization whose mission is to conserve high priority mountain ecosystems, improve mountain livelihoods, and promote the well-being of mo...

CHARLES HAROLD WILTS1920-1991Charles (Chuck) Harold Wilts, a 26-year member of the American Alpine Club, died of a heart attack on March 12 while hiking on Echo Mountain in the San Gabriel Mountains, north of Pasadena, California. He was bom on Ja...

The Friendly Mountains, edited by Roderick Peattie. 8vo., 341 pages with 23 illustrations, 2 geologic figures, appendices and index. New York: Vanguard Press, 1942. Price $3.50.Those who know Mountain Geography will have no doubt as to its author’...

Oregon, Mt. Jefferson—Robert A. Trahon (18) with his companion David L. Neitting attempted to climb the Jefferson Park Glacier route on Sunday, July 13. The weather was warm and clear. They reached the lower bergschrund with no difficulty. Here th...

FALL ON ICE—California, Mendel Glacier. John Moore (31) stated that at 2 p.m., on September 4, he and his climbing partner, Carl Van Horn (25) were attempting to climb the right hand ice gully, north face of the Mendel Glacier. While attempting to...

BOLT PULLED OUT—BADLY SET, FALL ON ROCK California, Joshua Tree National Park, Indian CoveHaving led aid climbs (some solo, and all without incident) during the long Thanksgiving weekend, including the A4’s Rurp Romp and Lost Lid (“New wave” A2+ o...

Shisha Pangma, My Fourteenth 8000erJerzy Kukuczka, Klub Wysokogórski, Katowice, Poland Translated by Zygmunt KwasniokSHISHA PANGMA was the last 8000-meter peak to be climbed. In 1964, it was ascended by a huge Chinese expedition with 60 members. F...

Haizi Shan (5,820m), east ridge, north summit ascent and main summit attempt. Known to Tibetans as Ja-ra (King of the mountains), Haizi Shan is a striking peak north of Kangding in a region that was formerly known as East Tibet. It is most easily ...

Climbing in Mount McKinley National Park. About 680 mountaineers climbed on the major peaks of Mount McKinley National Park and Denali National Monument. As in previous years, nearly a third of the climbers travelled to Alaska from foreign countri...

Everest Revisited: The International Himalayan Expedition 1971NORMAN G. DYHRENFURTH“… THIS time, as we left Base Camp on May 25, 1963, it was all different. The job was done; the challenge had been met at last. I knew I would never return. Everest...

All Japan Mount McKinley Expedition. Our landing point was at 7500 feet on the southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. Base Camp was established about six days later, on June 25, at about 11,000 feet on the east fork of the Kahiltna, just under th...

Cosmic Ray Research in the Himalayas. According to a clipping from the Statesman of 22 July 1951, an international party consisting of Dr. L. F. Curtiss, of the National Bureau of Standards in Washington, Dr. P. S. Gill, and Mr. Basir Khan, of Ali...

On May 11 Eric Roberts, leader, Dr. Arnold Pines, and Stuart Jones, Jr. and Gil Harder, the two American members of the British Nanda Devi Expedition, arrived at Joshimath and joined Len Smith, Frank Eastwood and Roger Reid, who had been there ...

Graybeard, north face routes. In November 2002, I climbed two separate routes on the north face of Graybeard, both of which I believe to be new. The first began from the prominent field of névé at the base of the 1984 Skoog-Skoog Route. From the r...

One Mountain Thousand Summits, The Untold Story of Tragedy and True Heroism on K2. Freddie Wilkinson. New American Library, 2010. 342 pages. Hardcover. $24.95.If you’re a reader of this journal, you know that K2 has some of the most storied litera...

The Mazamas. The Climbing Committee scheduled 290 climbs in 1993, but bad weather caused cancellation of many during May and July. The winter schedule of 20 climbs was especially hard hit by weather, with only one successful climb. Eleven new lead...

Pigeon Spire, Southeast Face. On a quick trip into the Bugaboos near the end of a cycle of good weather, Steve Marts and I decided to attempt one of the really obvious and classic unclimbed routes in the range, the buttress-like face between the e...

FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, CLIMBING ALONEWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Disappointment PeakOn July 11, Joe Zitomer and Melynda Cable stopped at the Jenny Lake Rescue Cache to report possible cries for help coming from Disappointment ...

I can’t remember when I first saw a picture of Spantik, the Golden Peak, in Pakistan, but it’s easy to recall the strong impression I felt. I couldn’t imagine how one would climb that lofty pillar on the northwest face, and I was humbled by the ac...