Vallecitos, East Face. Members of the Club Andinista Mendoza opened several new routes on peaks located in Mendoza province: Cerro Sosneado Sur (4800 meters, 15,748 feet) via southeast face by A. Randis in January; Cerro Laguna, (5034 meters, 16,5...
North Chasm View Wall, Rotten Piggy. In September Chris Kruthaupt and I climbed the new route Rotten Piggy between No Pig Left and No Pig Deal. It begins in a large gully/chimney system 100 feet to the right of the Comic Relief buttress. Ascend th...
Aguja Poincenot, Techado Negro, Fitz Roy Group, Patagonia. Along with Alfredo Rosasco I made a new route, the southwest face of the Aguja Poincenot, from December 24 to 28. This was a 4000-foot wall of great difficulty but we had good weather: The...
Whitney Portal, Corpus Christi Buttress. Between Whitney Portal and El Segundo Buttresses, and slightly above these formations are several large walls and buttresses. On Easter, Gary Slate, Fred Beckey and I climbed what we believe to be the first...
Cerro Torre, Spanish Attempt An expedition of the Club Alpí Catalá was led by Joan Créixams early in 1970. They were plagued with bad weather and did not get very high on the ice-covered needle.
Rocky Mountains. Holding indoctrination in safety to be “of prime importance,” the Colorado Mountain Club in 1948 repeated its “technical climbing school” (three evening lectures with a maximum attendance of 48 and three field trips with 38 in att...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION-PULLED OUT, LATE START- IMPENDING DARKNESS, OFF ROUTE, INEXPERIENCEColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, The BookOn July 1, Mike Head (26) and Levois “Adolph” Garcia were attempting to climb Osiris (II 5.7) on...
Latok II Attempt. Our return to attempt the west ridge of Latok II was unfortunate. Pat Fearneough was killed by rockfall in the Braldu valley. Our party had to be split to deal with this tragedy. David Wilkinson, Dr. Peter Thexton and I had to re...
TABLE II Type of OperationState or ProvinceNumber of SearchesNumber ofRescuesNumber of Recoveries’63’64’63’64’63’64Arizona 638524British Columbia—2—3—1California 31144515911Colorado 2925141742Montana 2—1—0—New Hampshire —0—3—1Oregon 1535200Wash...
Dragontail, Northeast Arête.* Another Grade III, 5.7 route on this increasingly popular mountain.* Further information on these climbs is available in the Mountaineer Annual.
Mt. Bradley, Spice Factory, and other ascents. Quebec climbers Louis-Philippe Ménard and Maxime Turgeon established a remarkable new route up the 4,300-vertical-foot north face of Mt. Bradley. Their route, Spice Factory (5.10R M7 WI5), is the firs...
FALLING ICE, FALL ON ICENew Hampshire, Crawford NotchIn February, 1983, Jeffrey Watoski (23) was climbing in Crawford Notch when he was hit by a falling piece of ice, causing him to fall 50 meters. He broke a leg and was rescued by the New Hampshi...
Mawson Peak, New Route. Mawson Peak (2745m) is the highest point of Big Ben, the volcano on Heard Island. The peak received its third ascent when Australian climbers Robb Clifton, Stuart Davies, Matthew Rogerson and Tim Curtis journeyed to the isl...
California, Yosemite National Park, Arrowhead Spire. On 12 November, David A. Brewer (20) and Pat Noonan (19) signed out at Park Headquarters at 8:30 a.m. to climb Arrowhead Spire. Ascending the approach route to the base of the spire they got sli...
Trango Towers. It has been pointed out that we have not clearly stated in A.A.J., 1977 and 1978, exactly which of the Trango towers were climbed. The British climbed a spectacular tower which stands out clearly from the rest, while the next year t...
Gasherbrum II and Broad Peak. Reinhold Messner turned to Pakistan after his successful climb of Kanchenjunga. On July 24 he climbed Gasherbrum II and on August 2 reached the summit of Broad Peak. He was accompanied by Pakistanis Nazir Sabir and Ma...
The Fickle Finger of Forlorn. Chuck Schaap and I spent a long day climbing to the summit of this finger-like pinnacle located on the north side of Clear Creek Canyon and just 300 feet south of Forlorn Pinnacle. Starting from a camp on Clear Lake i...
Christian Kaufmann, last survivor of Whymper’s 1901 climbing party in the Canadian Rockies, died at Grindelwald on January 23rd, 1939, at the age of sixty-six. Kaufmann was active in Canada for several seasons thereafter, guiding the late Sir Jame...
AVALANCHE, FALL OVER CLIFF Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Bow SummitOn May 29, 1987, two skiers with downhill equipment walked up the upper pitch of the area known as the Bow Summit with the intention of skiing a convex slope with late season snow. One...
Makalu, West Face. After leaving Kathmandu on August 28, Sergio Petrini, Claudio Regheschi and I reached the Hillary Base Camp on September 10. We had to leave our desperately ill liaison officer with an Italian expedition there, where he died of ...