Makalu Attempt. Three Spaniards and a Canadian were led by Antonio Luna in an attempt on the normal route on Makalu. All four reached 7500 meters on the north ridge on October 10. Strong winds drove them down the mountain. Three went straight to B...

Gyachungkang, South Face Attempt. Our expedition Was composed of Basques Antxon Zamabide, F. Garatea, Martín Zebaleta, Kike de Pablo and me and Americans Hooman Aprin, Ron Matous, Dr. Robin Houston, Edward Farrar and Michael Ruckhouse. In Kathmand...

Kanjiroba, Ascent. It was reported that Britons Richard Bull, Neil Cooper, Andy Hawes, Mal Lewis, Andy Lind, Josie Poole, Ben Steele and Alison and Tom Wedgwood made the fifth ascent of Kanjiroba Main Summit (6883m). It was the first time in 20 ye...

Dhaulagiri and Tukuche Northwest. A 12-man Korean expedition led by Cho Chung-Sool made the 36th ascent of Dhaulagiri, climbing the northeast ridge. On November 14, Chol Tae-Sik and Sherpas Da Gombu and Wangyal got to the top. Expedition members a...

Noshaq. We had originally hoped to climb in the Darban basin in Pakistan, but just before our departure our permit was cancelled. For that reason we decided to climb Noshaq by its west ridge, from Afghanistan. We joined together with Marcus Schmuc...

Manaslu. Fourteen Japanese climbers returned in high hopes to Manaslu but at Sama at the foot of the mountain in early April, 1954, they faced the hostile inhabitants of the valley and their lamas who refused them permission to continue. They decl...

Peaks above Quebrada Honda. After two unsuccessful attempts on Tocllaraju, we made several ascents of Chinchey (20,413 feet) via the west face: Howard Bussey, Gary Poush, Gary Wilson on July 15, Raymond Jacquot, Bill Lindberg on July 18, Carlos Pl...

Mount Sidley (4,285m), fifth ascent and correction. The highest peak in the range got its fifth ascent, by veteran guide Mike Roberts and party. It seems that in addition to previous reported ascents in 1990 (Bill Atkinson) and 2011 (ALE guided te...

RAPPEL ERROR - NO BACK-UP BELAY AND NO KNOT ON ROPE ENDColorado, Boulder CanyonOn July 6, a female (31) fell approximately 15 feet when she rappelled off the end of her rope while climbing in Boulder Canyon. She injured her lower leg, and possibly...

Shisha Pangma and Unique Training Method. On September 5, I reached the summit of Shisha Pangma with Italians Fausto De Stefani and Sergio Martini by the normal route. We had Base Camp, Camps I, II and III at 5550, 6400, 6900 and 7300 meters. We h...

Climbs in the Cascade Mountains, Oregon and California, by Samuel F. Thomas and Charles B. Hardin. 1939.In two impressive mimeographed manuscripts we have presented material which will be of great value when there is sufficient demand for formal c...

Kwangde Lho, north face, second ascent ofBreashears-Lowe route. After retreating from the right-hand variation on the northwest ridge of Ama Dablam (reported elsewhere), Alasdair Coull and I made the second ascent of the 1982 Breashears-Lowe Route...

FALL ON ROCK, UNROPED, NO HARD HATAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Tonquin Valley, Surprise PointTwo Japanese members of an Indian Summer Alpine Club Camp at the Wates-Gibson Hut climbed and scrambled up fourth-class terrain of the northeast aspect of Su...

Putrung, attempt. One of the newly opened Mustang peaks, 6,466m Putrung in the southwestern Damodar Himal, was attempted by a seven-member Finnish expedition. Patrick Degerman’s team tried the west-northwest ridge but was turned back at 6,050m on ...

K2. A full article on the Russian-American expedition to K2 with additional details about the Mexican-New Zealander-Swedish expedition and Chantai Mauduit of the Swiss expedition appears earlier in this Journal.

Yale. The second year of the Yale Mountaineering Club brought a considerable increase in interest and activity. Members regularly practised rock climbing on Mt. Carmel, ten miles from the university; and a group of ten, in the spring of 1948, visi...

Odle, Sella, Marmolada, by Ettore Castiglione. 12 mo., 778 pages, 8 maps, 86 drawings and 32 photographs. Published by the Italian Alpine Club and the Italian Touring Club, 1937.This volume is one of a series of guidebooks to the Italian mountains...

Washington, Guye Peak. On September 23, Brian Martz, Janet McDonnell, Linda Cartwright (23), and Ed Goodman (31) set out to climb Guye Peak. All four members were experienced and graduates of Pete Schoening’s climbing class at the University of Wa...

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, NUT FAILURE, NO HARD HAT, INEXPERIENCECalifornia, Tuolumne MeadowsOn August 7, 1980, I was told by the Park Dispatcher that a visitor at Tuolumne Meadows Ranger Station was reporting a climbing accident on Lembe...

British Columbia, Coast Range, Tantalus Range, Mt. Alpha. Paul Wisnicki (51) of the Alpine Club of Canada, was leading a section trip up Alpha on 25 August. At 9 A.M. in fog he was leading the 35 foot key pitch, a low grade 5, when he slipped just...