Cascade Section. On April 8, with the Climbing Club of the University of Washington, we hosted a presentation by Hans Florine, speed climber extraordinaire, showcasing his record climb of the Nose of El Capitan in Yosemite with Yuji Hirayama (2hrs...
Marmolejo, North Face. Juan Pardo, Dagoberto Peña, Nelson Rivera, Cristián Peña and I made the first ascent of the 7000-foot-high north face of Marmolejo (6100 meters, 20,013 feet), which had resisted four previous attempts. On February 1 we climb...
Painted Wall, Journey Through Mirkwood. In August Jonathan Copp and I descended the S.O.B. Gully at 3:00 a.m. hoping to make the first free ascent of Journey Through Mirkwood on the Painted Wall. This 2,000-foot route was one of the few older rout...
FritzRoy, French Attempt on Northeast Buttress. An 11-man French group headed by F. Guillot and J. Kelle early in 1968 attempted the northeast buttress of FitzRoy but got only about halfway up because of continuous bad weather.
Eichorn Pinnacle, A Celebrity’s Holiday. In June, Bruce Brossman and I climbed the long straight-in crack system to the left of the West Pillar route. The crack does not quite reach the ground. Four pitches of sometimes difficult-to-protect climbi...
Cerro Tone, Ascent by Southwest Face. After the death of Toni Egger on the descent, Cesare Maestri returned to the base of 9908-foot Cerro Torre, stating that the pair had made the first ascent of this fantastic ice-sheathed needle on January 31, ...
Middle West. The Safety Committee of the Iowa Mountaineers reports that a clearly defined program was adopted in January 1949. Jointly with the State University of Iowa, the club is sponsoring a course in “Outings and Mountaineering” (two hours a ...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED-TRYING TO SAVE TIMEColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn July 6, Cameron Tague (32) and Emma Williams (34) were attempting the Yellow Wall Route (V 5.11) on the Diamond of Longs Peak. Tague was climbin...
Latok III Attempt. Our baggage arrived 65 days late because of engine trouble of our freighter and we were 35 days late in establishing Base Camp on August 1 at 14,100 feet on the east bank of the Baintha Lukpar Glacier. We therefore missed the go...
TABLE III Operation Conducted ForState or ProvinceHunters,Hikers,FishermenAircraftClimbersOthers’63’64’63’64’63’64’63’64Arizona 040154113British Columbia—4—0—2—0California 3316081763510Colorado 291130241410Montana 0—0—0—3—New Hampshire—0—0—4—0Oreg...
Thunder Mountain, North Face. A 6600-foot peak about eight miles south of Stevens Pass with a 600-foot granite face.
Moose's Tooth, The Tooth Obsession to summit ridge. It was our fourth spring on the Root Canal Glacier. After climbing Ham and Eggs, we became obsessed with the idea of a new route on the magnificent south face of the Moose’s Tooth. However, most ...
FALL ON ICE, HIGH WINDSNew Hampshire, Mount WashingtonOn March 24, 1983, Kenneth Hokenson (23) and Ali Kashkooli (30) were descending Mount Washington when high wind knocked Kashkooli off his feet. Hokenson ran down the slope to try to stop him an...
Kaga Tondo, Croatica, and Other Ascents. From mid-January to mid-February, an expedition of Croatian climbers was active in Mali. Boris Cujic and Ivica Matkovic led the team, which climbed a new line on Kaga Tondo. Croatica (F6c+, 650m) was establ...
California, Sierra Nevada, University Peak. On 29 May, Peter Young (30) and four companions had successfully climbed University Peak (13,632) and were descending the North side of the Northwest ridge. At about the 11,500 foot level, deep soft snow...
Skamri. Our expedition was composed of Tetsuo Nogami, Norio Fukuda, Saburo Mitsumoto, Miss Tomoko Aoyagi, Mrs. Atsuko Shibata, Miss Noriko Furusawa and me as leader. We ascended the Panmah and Drenmang Glaciers. Base Camp was placed on the side of...
Deaths on Broad Peak and Gasherbrum II. The leaders of two expeditions died in the unusually bad weather in the Karakoram this year. Both expeditions were then called off. Austrian-born Canadian Hans G. Frick died in an avalanche on Broad Peak on ...
The Bottle, East Face, Wind River Range. Though cross-country in the northern Wind Rivers is tamer than in the Cascades, it can be reasonably tough. Game trails beyond the Green River Lakes led us to a delightful, almost unknown valley west of Squ...
Snowpatch Spire. The foot of the snowpatch which is encased in the E. side of the peak was reached by C. Cranmer and F. H. Wiessner from the notch between the main peak and the tower to the E. The route taken begins about 50 ft. below and an equal...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount LefroyAt 0745 on July 12, 1987, a climber (28) was descending Mount Lefroy solo; the route was the West Col via Abbot’s Pass. At 3100 meters, halfway between the first and second r...