Trango Towers. It has been pointed out that we have not clearly stated in A.A.J., 1977 and 1978, exactly which of the Trango towers were climbed. The British climbed a spectacular tower which stands out clearly from the rest, while the next year t...

Gasherbrum II and Broad Peak. Reinhold Messner turned to Pakistan after his successful climb of Kanchenjunga. On July 24 he climbed Gasherbrum II and on August 2 reached the summit of Broad Peak. He was accompanied by Pakistanis Nazir Sabir and Ma...

The Fickle Finger of Forlorn. Chuck Schaap and I spent a long day climbing to the summit of this finger-like pinnacle located on the north side of Clear Creek Canyon and just 300 feet south of Forlorn Pinnacle. Starting from a camp on Clear Lake i...

Christian Kaufmann, last survivor of Whymper’s 1901 climbing party in the Canadian Rockies, died at Grindelwald on January 23rd, 1939, at the age of sixty-six. Kaufmann was active in Canada for several seasons thereafter, guiding the late Sir Jame...

AVALANCHE, FALL OVER CLIFF Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Bow SummitOn May 29, 1987, two skiers with downhill equipment walked up the upper pitch of the area known as the Bow Summit with the intention of skiing a convex slope with late season snow. One...

Makalu, West Face. After leaving Kathmandu on August 28, Sergio Petrini, Claudio Regheschi and I reached the Hillary Base Camp on September 10. We had to leave our desperately ill liaison officer with an Italian expedition there, where he died of ...

North Palisade, Southwest Buttress. On June 29, Steve Porcella and I returned to the west face of North Palisade and made the first ascent of the southwest buttress, the massive buttress rising just north of the U-notch. Our route ascended the pro...

Gyachungkang, South Face. Our expedition of ten French and three Nepalese military men climbed Gyachungkang’s previously unclimbed south face. The peak itself had been climbed only once, by Japanese in 1964. We approached from Jiri in two weeks an...

Trekking Peaks of Nepal, Ascents and Attempts. In an effort to climb all 18 trekking peaks in Nepal as catalogued by Bill O’Connor’s book, The Trekking Peaks of Nepal, the British Army Nepal Expedition sent different teams to all the respective mo...

Dhaulagiri Attempts. Two Japanese expeditions unsuccessfully attempted to climb Dhaulagiri by its northeast ridge. A three-man group led by Akihiro Yoshitani set up Base Camp and Camps I and II at 4720, 5700 and 6560 meters on September 2, 11 and ...

Mount Hunter, North Buttress. Two articles on remarkably difficult new routes up the north buttress of Mount Hunter appear earlier in this Journal. One was climbed by Marc Twight and Scott Backes and named “Deprivation.” The other, “Wall of Shadow...

Noshaq from the South, Ghul Lasht Zom East, Aspe Safed. We three Austrians, Wolfgang Stefan, Dieter Eger and I, traveled from Peshawar to Shagrom from June 2 to 6, as far as Kuragh by landrover and jeep via the Lowari Pass and Chitral and over the...

Annapurna IV. The post-monsoon Japanese expedition in 1953, under the leadership of T. Imanishi, came close to reaching the top of its 24,688-foot objective. The route up the south face they felt impracticable for porters; so on October 10th they ...

Chinchey and Jatunmontepuncu. Our expedition from China Lake, California Mountain Rescue Group climbed from the Quebrada Quil- cayhuanca. From our Base Camp at 14,665 feet, stock trails led up and north into the side canyon, Quebrada Yanapaccha, w...

Overview. Experienced Antarctic climber Patrick Degerman made his second visit to the area, climbing several minor peaks in the Wohlthat Massif with a fellow Finnish partner. The most well-known figure of Queen Maud Land climbing, Ivar Tollefsen, ...

Pumori, Northwest Ridge Attempt and Near Tragedy. Gil McCormick, Jim Nowak and I made the first ever attempt on the northwest ridge of Pumori, which forms the border between Nepal and Tibet and rises sharply from the Changri Shar Glacier. From Jir...

FALL ON ROCK, ROPE SEVEREDColorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Red Garden WallJoe Miller (38) fell to his death on the morning of June 22 while climbing the Yellow Spur route (5.9) on the Redgarden Wall. A later investigation revealed that a micr...

Shisha Pangma and Unique Training Method. On September 5, I reached the summit of Shisha Pangma with Italians Fausto De Stefani and Sergio Martini by the normal route. We had Base Camp, Camps I, II and III at 5550, 6400, 6900 and 7300 meters. We h...

Mountain Records of the Sierra Nevada, compiled by Richard M. Leonard and the Committee of Mountain Records, Sierra Club. 1937, with supplement to 1939.

Kwangde Nup, north buttress direct ascent, Cheap Wine. During the post monsoon Czech climbers, Jan Doudlebsky and Radek Lienerth, completed a new direct finish to the 1989 American route on the North Buttress of Kwangde Nup (6035m). The pair began...