New routes on Mount Rainier. The 1957 American Alpine Journal had barely been mailed when the article "The Climbing History of Mount Rainier” became outdated; for before the climbing season came to an end four new routes had been pioneered to the ...
Whitechuck, East Face. In 1973 Ron Miller and Ben Guydelkon climbed the east face proper. Class 3 and 4.
Paragliding from Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre, 1988. Four German climbers led by Matthias Pinn made a number of unsuccessful attempts on Cerro Torre in August 1988 before turning to Fitz Roy, which they climbed by the Supercouloir. After a bivouac on ...
Lone Pine Peak, South Face. On June 14, Chuck Sink and I put up a new route on Lone Pine’s south face. The route begins above the start of the giant couloir cutting the face diagonally. It is nearly all free and follows cracks just right of a prom...
INADEQUATE PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, NO HARD HAT Washington, IndexOn March 16,1986, Paul Birdstrup (35) was climbing Magic Fern (5.8+) on Index Town Wall, a one pitch route. Doing the 5.8+ moves, the climber took a minor fall and became fru...
San José: The highest summit of this mountain (19,284 feet) in the Chilean Andes was ascended for the first time by Sebastian Krückel and Otto Pfenniger of Santiago on March 6th, 1931.
FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HAT, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Colorado, Glenwood SpringsIn June, a climber (age unknown) was leading a moderate (5.6-5.7) route in No-Name Creek when he/she fell from ten meters off the deck, six meters above protection. Victim ...
Naimona’nyi (Gurla Mandhata). The Japanese part of the joint expedition, of which I was the mountaineering leader, passed through Urumchi and reached Kashgar, where we met the Chinese part on April 11. We went through Yarkand, crossed the Kunlung ...
Wisconsin Hoofers. By reason of location we are predominantly a rock climbing club and do most of our climbing on quartzite bluffs at Devil’s Lake, Wisconsin, about 40 miles north of Madison. Usually early in the school year we devote meetings to ...
Colorado Mountain Club reports that there has been a great increase in interest and in the number of climbers. They feel that this increase in numbers of less experienced persons accounts in part for the increase in accidents on CMC trips. Because...
Bodga Shan. Located in the eastern Tien Shan Mountains, Bogda Shan (5445 meters, 17,864 feet) was first climbed in 1981 by Japanese climbers. Canadian Evan Price and I, a Scot, reached the summit on August 13 at six P.M. before descending to our t...
Premiers voyages au Mont-Blanc, par. H.-B. de Saussure, M.-T. Bourrit, et leurs contemporains, selected by Daniel May. Paris: Club des Libraires by André Wahl. Price 1950 fr.In this, the 18th volume of a series Découverte de la Terre, an introduct...
California, Rock Quarry, La Mesa—On April 26, 1953 Dean Hallford (12), David Hobbs (12) and Bernie Strong (12) decided to climb a 170 ft. rock quarry. They had a 90 ft. length of ¼ inch Manilla line which they cut into three equal portions. Hobbs ...
Peaks in Himachal Pradesh. Indian climbers continued to make many ascents. Mulkila 4 (M4) was climbed by an expedition from Calcutta led by Goutam Dutta. On August 22, Dutta and R.S. Negi got to the summit (6517 meters, 21,380 feet). This was prob...
Mount Owen, Crescent Arête. On September 9 Fred Beckey and Yvon Chouinard made a new variation on the north ridge of Mount Owen by climbing the crescent-shaped arête which arises near the beginning of the north ridge, curves upward between the nor...
Blue Dome, El Greco. In May, Winfred Blevins, Leeds Davis and I climbed the first technical route up the south buttress of Little Blue Dome, located along the High Sierra trail in Sequoia National Park, about nine miles from the trail head. Our ro...
Ultar (Bojohagur Duanasir II) Attempt and Hunza Peak Ascent. Our expedition composed of Britons Victor Saunders, Crag Jones, Julian Freeman- Attwood and me and American Steve Sustad attempted to climb Ultar I (7388 meters, 24,240 feet) in July. Sa...
Red Sentinel, Northwest Corner (Kraus Route). After 25 years Red Sentinel was climbed by the line by which it was first attempted. Greg Joiner and I made the ascent on August 7. After squeezing through a cleft at the top of a capped chimney, the c...
Our party consisted of Mike Morrison, Mike O’Brien, Stephen Sustad and me as leader. After arriving in Delhi on August 23, we had difficulty in getting permission to visit this troubled area. We were eventually only allowed to approach via Manali,...
Plateau Peak, attempt. A 15-member Indo-Italian expedition attempted unclimbed Plateau Peak (7,310m), which lies southwest of Saser Kangri I (7,672m) in the Saser group. Jointly led by M.S. Gomese and Marco Meazzini, the team established base camp...