Gang Ben Chen. We left Lhasa on March 22 and established Base Camp at 15,250 feet on March 27 and Advance Base at 18,700 feet on April 4, both on the Boron Plain. Camp I was on the small glacier north of Gang Ben Chen at 20,450 feet. We placed Cam...
Ocshapalca, Variante Peruana. Guillermo Mejia and I installed the tent at the moraine camp in September 1998. Our new route on the south face of Ocshapalca (Variante Peruana, 650m, ED-) begins to the right of the central buttress and the Alquimia ...
In May Geoff Bonney, Sandy Gregson, and I, veterans of many Greenland expeditions, were joined in the Saven Range by four younger U.K. climbers, Steve Allsopp, Vernon Needham, Steve Wilson, and Simon Yates. I had seen these beautiful,little-explor...
Mount Hood, Illumination Rock. In May, I soloed the eastwall of Illumination Rock, a columnar-jointed spire, jutting out from Mount Hood’s Reed Glacier. After attempting the wall earlier, I used the Barnett System for the 5.11, 160-foot initial di...
Cerro Francés, Amberer Island, Palmer Peninsula. The expedition was composed of Martin Donovan, Jorge Ruiz Luque, Ismael Palma, Alfredo Frageiro and me as leader. We left Ushuaia aboard the Argentine Navy transport Bahía Aguirre and after a fiftee...
Mount Everest Post-Monsoon Attempt. The British expedition which attempted the southwest face of Everest in the post-monsoon period was fighting from the beginning against time. It was led by Christian Boning- ton with Lieutenant Colonel James Rob...
Pariakaka is located in the Yauyos area between the borders of Lima and Junin, where such other snowy peaks as Collquepurco, Vicunita, Tunshu, Tatajaico, and Paca are found. From the main highway between Lima and Huancayo, go through Oroya and Pac...
P 4245, “Exfoliation Dome” north of Helena Peak. On September 15, the north ridge of this uncharacteristic granite formation a few miles south of Darrington was climbed by Greg Ball and me. Approach was from the west left of a slabby stream gully ...
Historical note and correction. Several historical references to this mountain contain mistakes. Although the Slovenian route appears similar to route 328 on Puscanturpa Este drawings 157, 159, and 160 in Jan Kielkowski’s impressive 1992 Cordiller...
GEORGE EVANS1935-1982I knew George for thirty years as a friend, a fellow engineer at Perkin Elmer and climbing companion. He attended M.I.T. and University of New Hampshire.In climbing, George was conservative, careful and confident. He thought o...
Hunter and Deborah, 1993. Holly Samson and I climbed the west ridge of Hunter to 9200 feet on May 20, 1993. The next day, in deteriorating weather, we climbed the spectacular corniced ridge and reached the summit (4442 meters, 14,573 feet) at ten ...
Antarctic Peninsula, various climbs. The British Army Antarctic Expedition aboard the John Laing made the second ascent of Mt. Johnston (2,304m) and conducted exploration of the high Peninsula areas, including the Forbidden Plateau. A climbing par...
Situated south of Tanzania and west of Mozambique, Malawi is a small country in southern Africa best known for its lake of the same name. A year ago Jeremy Roop and I had stumbled across a website describing a half-mile-long, 5,500' wall on the we...
An exploratory journey through the Ellsworth Mountains in 2002-03, and first ascent of Mt. Segers. On November 10, 2002 four Chilean mountaineers, Pablo Gutiérrez, Eugenio Guzmán, Ernesto Olivares, and I started a journey of over 400km through the...
La Catedral, East Face. We saw a picture of La Catedral on a postcard. With no more information than that, John Catto, leader, Peter Gallagher, Max Kendall and I arrived in Patagonia on New Years Day, 1992, intent on making the first ascent of the...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, DISTRACTION, POOR POSITIONPennsylvania, Ralph Stover State ParkOn October 22, 1989, Phillipp Grout (40) took a six-meter fall to the ground while leading the center crack on the practice wall. Climbing a meter ...
Pumori Pre-Monsoon Attempts. A Japanese expedition reached 6400 meters on Pumori via the southeast face to the east ridge on March 28, but the climb was called off when leader Yoshikuni Mori fell into a crevasse and was killed. The deputy leader w...
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPEDOregon, Mount Hood, SouthsideOn July 5, Erik Heerlein (35), a climber from South Carolina, fell approximately 200 feet while descending the Mazama Chute variation (10,500-foot elevation) of the Southside Route. His un...
HELEN I. BUCK 1884-1972This year the Club lost a most distinguished member, Helen I. Buck, known and loved by generations of American mountaineers. Many climbers, foreign and American, came to know this cheerful, knowledgeable, modest woman in the...
Editors note: Guide to the Rwenzori - Mountains of the Moon; 336 pages including 48 color plates, 25 grayscale, and 30 maps and drawings; ISBN 0-9518039-6-4. Publication date June 2006. £16.00.The 1972 Osmaston and Pasteur “Guide to the Rwenzori,”...