Chopicalqui, Northwest Face, Solo in one day. From camp at 13,125 feet above Yurac Corral in the Quebrada Llanganuco, I decided to attempt a new route on the northwest face of Chopicalqui to the left of the route climbed in 1981 by Sigayret, the R...
SLIP ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED Wyoming, TetonsJames (24) and Claude (29) Kelly were climbing the Exum Ridge of the Grand Teton on July 2. After climbing the “Open Book” pitch on the ridge, approximately 200 to 300 feet below the summit, the Kellys...
FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, CLIMBING UNROPED– NO EQUIPMENTNorth Carolina, Table Rock MountainOn July 19 a hiker turned climber fell after scrambling in the vicinity of the Wasp (5.7). He fell approximately 30 to 40 feet, sustaining severe h...
Central North Island, summary. Richard Thomson’s new guidebook to the Tongariro National Park may have kicked off some fresh enthusiasm, or maybe it was the good early season conditions. Either way some great-looking ice and mixed routes were clim...
TABLE IIGeographicalNumber of1951-611962TotalPersons Number ofTotalPersonsDistrictsAccidentsDeathsInvolved Accidents Deaths InvolvedCanadaAlberta 636111British Columbia7618000Yukon Territory 101000United StatesAtlantic — North441558525— South22200...
Ayacachi or Mamariti Group, Cordillera Vilcanota. Steve Webster (USA), John Wilson (New Zealand), Bill Whelen (Australia) and I explored the north side of the Ayacachi group. People on the north call it Mamariti, and I have yet to hear someone ref...
Grand Traverse, first winter ascent. On January 24, 2004, after more than three weeks of unseasonably dry and warm weather, two parties set out to complete a long-standing project in the Tetons: the Grand Traverse in winter. Perennial winter activ...
Death Canyon, Peak 10,552, “Dihedral of Horrors” On August 18, Peter Avenali and John Behrens climbed a strenuous new route out of Death Canyon of II, F8, A3 difficulty. After the first two switchbacks of the Death Canyon Trail one can see a high ...
Thompson Ridge Area, Chugach Mountains. On June 12 Jim Miller flew Bob Jacobs, Ole Kanestrom and me to the Thompson Ridge area. We landed on a sandy gravel bar near Ross Green Lake, where a Polish expedition had set up Base Camp. We joined them fo...
Koh-i-Bandaka Attempt. Our expedition attempted the normal route on the south summit of Koh-i-Bandaka (22,447 feet) but could get to only 21,000 feet because of difficulties caused by the Afghans. From now on a guide who receives $20 (US) must acc...
Big Four Mountain, Central Summit Direct. A long, though moderate, route on snow and ice. The route follows the narrow couloir that splits a buttress originating directly from the center peak of the five summits evident on the mountain. An icefall...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO TEST HOLDSAlberta, Kananaskis Country, Mount John Laurie (Mount Yamnuska)On September 8, a climber who had been bolting stations on an unnamed route on Mount Yamnuska fell approximately 40 feet, fracturing his ankle. He fe...
Bhagirathi II North Face, Ascent and Tragedy, 1981. In the autumn of 1981, Dawson Stelfox, Tommy Maguire and I visited the Gangotri region. From the usual Base Camp beside the Gangotri Glacier, we made exploratory trips to study the west faces of ...
Warriors of the Wasteland, Second Ascent. Warriors was a communal effort that spanned over 20 years, with over 10 people involved in the ascent. At IV 5.12c it was first completed and free climbed continuously by Matt Maddaloni and Ben DeMenech in...
The Armchair Mountaineer, edited by George Alan and Carol D. Smith. New York: Pitman Publishing Corp., 1968. 361 pages, 20 colored illustrations, 9 cartoons, numerous drawings by Debra Healy. Price: $15.00.This is a delightful and well-put-togethe...
Mount Russell, West Face. While looking at slides taken on a flight over the Sierra Nevada, Galen Rowell was electrified by a striking face on 14,086-foot Mount Russell, one of the finest peaks in the range. On reaching the peak many months later,...
Luracatao. The volcanic peak of Luracatao (5850 meters, 19,193 feet) was climbed on August 19 by Luis Aguilar and Cristián Vitry, of the Club Amigos de la Montaña, Salta, Argentina. The peak is located about 42 miles almost due west of the summer ...
Colorado College Mountain Club. This year the club hosted Mountaineers Weekend, gathering many western mountaineers for three days of climbing and antics at Turkey Rock. The club’s usual activities of rock schools and snow and ice schools have bee...
KESLER L. TETER1933-1978Kes Teter, my friend and oft-times climbing buddy, is still climbing. An astonishing statement? Not really. For those who were fortunate enough to know Kes and to have climbed with this irrepressible dynamo, he will always ...
UIAA International Camp, Various Ascents. On September 7, all 23 members of the Third UIAA International Mountaineering Camp from ten different countries arrived in Chengdu in the province of Sichuan in China after a long journey via Beijing, Hong...