Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, Vinson Massif, 1992

Vinson Massif, 1992. Doug Scott and Sharu Prabhu organized a group that flew to Base Camp on the Branscomb Glacier in early December. After several days of ferrying food and gear to the col between Vinson and Shinn, the party spent a rest day befo...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington-Olympic Mountains, Church Peak, Southeast Face

Church Peak, Southeast Face. In the spring my husband Ken and I climbed the southeast face and then for two leads up the exposed summit ridge. This new route is class four.Terry Anderson Pearce


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Ledge Breaks Beneath Climber's Feet, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs Peak

FALL ON ROCK, LEDGE BREAKS BENEATH CLIMBER’S FEET Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn Sunday August 28, Keith Brett (29) fell from the North Chimney while simul-climbing with his partner Matt. Their intention was to climb Perverti...


Accident Reports ANAM
Washington, Mt. Rainier National Park (2)

Washington, Mt. Rainier National Park (2)—On August 10, 1956 Sam C. Silverstein (19) fell while descending the snow chute along Gibralter as he returned from the summit. He apparently tripped on his crampon, rolled about 100 feet, and was stopped ...


Book Reviews AAJ
The Endless Knot: K2, Mountain of Dreams and Destiny

The Endless Knot: K2, Mountain of Dreams and Destiny. Kurt Diemberger. Translated by Audrey Salkeld. Grafton Books, London, 1991. 308 pages, profusely illustrated; diagrams and tables, necrology and bibliography. $32. This is not so much a mountai...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Chugach Mountains, Lindita Peak

Lindita Peak, Chugach Mountains. Jon Fisher and I organized this trip to the head of the Tazlina Glacier. The whole party, Gary Bennin- ger, Gregory Bramlet, Fisher, Halford Joiner, Tom Lamb, Bill Plock, Dr. Randall Travis and I, made the third as...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Thanglasgo Valley, Big Rock Candy Mountain, First Ascent, Dawa Peak, Kangsaimathung and Peak 2, New Routes India, Ladakh

Thanglasgo Valley, Big Rock Candy Mountain, first ascent; Dawa Peak, Kangsaimathung and Peak 2, new routes. Sheltered in the rain shadow of higher Himalayan peaks, the Nubra Valley is almost high-altitude desert, often expedition-friendly when oth...

| Published 2008


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock – Alberta, Lake Louise

FALLING ROCK—Alberta, Lake Louise. Stephen Pope was hiking in the Beehive area behind Lake Louise on July 31 and sat to eat lunch below a rock face. A large boulder fell and crushed his femur. (Source: Banff Crag and Canyon, early August, 1977.)An...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Colombia, Nevado del Ruiz, Cordillera Central

Nevado del Ruiz, Cordillera Central. The Alaska Andean Expedition, David P. Johnston, Peter H. Robinson and I, traversed the Nevado del Ruiz icecap from north to south by way of the 17,180-foot summit on February 19 and two days later climbed it a...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow, Climbing Alone and HAPE, HACE, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress

FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING ALONE and HAPE, HACE Alaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressChihiro Sakamaki flew to the Kahiltna base camp on June 10 and immediately began climbing the West Buttress reaching the 14,200 foot camp within 10 days. By June 19, ...


Book Reviews AAJ
Alte Bündner Bauweise und Volkskunst

Alte Bündner Bauweise und Volkskunst, by Hans Jenny. 8 vo., 178 pages, with 209 figures, 25 of which are in color, from drawings and painting by the author. Chur: Bischofberger & Co., 1939.The climber who feels that the Alps have lost the glow...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Bojohaghur II (Ultar) Attempt, 1992

Bojohaghur II (Ultar) Attempt, 1992. A Japanese three-man expedition, led by Toshio Narita, attempted to climb Bojohaghur II, which is also known as Ultar, (7388 meters, 24,240 feet) from Ahmad Abad Glacier. After placing Base Camp at 4000 meters ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Olympic Mountains, Inner Constance Pinnacles

Inner Constance Pinnacles. The easternmost of three pinnacles lying on a spur ridge extending northwest from the north end of the Inner Constance Ridge was climbed June 17, by Pete Schoening, Brian Gordon, and Jim Lindsay. The pinnacle was named “...


Book Reviews AAJ
Lapplanderfahrt im Rentier-Schlitten

Lapplanderfahrt im Rentier-Schlitten, by Liselotte Kattwinkel. 216 pages, 37 photographic illustrations by the author and eleven sketches. Braunschweig: Georg Westermann Verlag, 1951. Price, $3.25.One of the most interesting books about life above...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington - Cascade Mountains, The Snout, The Golden Ramp Route

The Snout, The Golden Ramp Route. After the rain made it impossible for Jay ]Ossiander and me to do the east face of Liberty Bell, we started to look around for something short to climb. Hiking south of the Cutthroat Lake trail, a half-mile from C...


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C., Cascade Section

A.A.C., Cascade Section. 1988 and 1989 were very good years for climbers in the Cascade Section. As usual, members participated in expeditions all over the globe, with particularly good results on both years on Kangchenjunga. Carlos Buhler has bee...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Central Argentina

Central Argentina. The highest peak in the Mongotes group, a snow and ice peak about 19,350 feet high, was climbed in January by R. Arci- diácono, J. Bello and E. Fiorentini. In the Enanos group, just to the south, in January the first ascents wer...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine and Chilean Patagonia, Cerro Torre

Cerro Torre. John Bragg, Jay Wilson and Dave Carman made the second ascent during the 1976-7 season of the west face of Cerro Torre, following the route climbed by the Italians in 1974. They climbed in semi-alpine style. It took them one day to ge...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, North West Territory—Logan Mountains, Cirque of the Unclimbables

Mount Englehard, Northwest Couloir, Columbia Icefield. In early September Tom Kimbrell, Dave Hough and I climbed the northwest couloir of Mount Englehard. We had 700 feet of reliable 60° ice in the upper couloir. The bottom section will vary signi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Lone Peak, West Flank of South Peak

Lone Peak, West Flank of South Peak. On June 16 Bob Irvine and I put a new route up the west end of the nearly vertical wall of the south peak of Lone Peak. We named the route “Lone Pine”, as its finish is capped with a single pine tree. The first...