Peaks above Quebrada Rajucolta. On July 15 we left Huaraz for the Quebrada Rajucolta to attempt several climbs, among them the unclimbed south ridge of Huantsán (20,981 feet). The two females, Alice Liska and Molly Weinstein planned to stay at Bas...
Middle Fiord, Axel Heiberg. The British Army Axel Heiberg Expedition 1972 was composed of Surgeon Lieutenant Commander P. N. Dilly, Captain M. T. King, Lieutenants J. W. Chuter, P. R. West, F. S. MacKenzie, D. A. Malcolm and R. J. Ebdon, Sergeant ...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, FALL INTO MOAT, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTWyoming, TetonsMark Anderson (29) arrived in Jackson on July 11 and met his friend Bob johnson. They were planning to climb the Grand Teton. Anderson and Johnson had been clim...
Rakaposhi - AlmostRICHARD K. IRVINour Dakota circled once over Rawalpindi and headed north with nose up, straining for altitude. Below now lay the Sind desert, and far behind was Karachi with its uncountable government offices, each with its inter...
MISSING/OVERDUEColorado, Rocky Mountain National ParkThis report is the amalgamation of five different incidents that, although singularly were not significant, collectively illustrate how minor problems that can grow into much larger incidents. I...
The Ascent of Dhaulagiri, by Max Eiselin. Translated from the German by E. Noel Bowman. New York: Oxford University Press, 1961. 159 pages. Illustrated. Price $5.75.This is an account of the successful double ascent of Dhaulagiri (8172 m.) in the ...
Hindu Raj, UIAA International Expedition Training Camp. The 23 young participants from 13 different countries (and all five continents) of the UIAA International Expedition Training Camp started their expedition on September 3. The expedition was ...
United States : Climbs in CaliforniaCastle Rock Spire, Sequoia National Park. Looking S.E. from Moro Rock on the Generals’ Highway, across the Middle Fork of the Kaweah River, one sees the serrated ridge of Castle Rocks, rising to an elevation of ...
Central Andes. The Alpine Club of the Japan Defense Army Universitysent Kazuo Asai as leader, Takashi Kawakami, climbing leader, Hiroshi Osuga, Mitsuaki Murata, Kazumi Taziri, Seijun Kimura, Chitoshi Ando and Shinichi Tamura to the central Andes. ...
Mt. Chephren, Dogleg Couloir. Our second night on Chephren sticks in my mind. A night spent surfing the line between control and chaos. The final rock band on the face festooned with obscene snow mushrooms, like a scene from a demented dream. But ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, OVER CONFIDENTOregon, Mount HoodAround 0545 in June 1985, David Thomas (32) and Doug Sahlberg (27) were ascending Mt. Hood when Sahlberg lost his footing. The following is part of the account he wrote concerning...
The Mountaineers: Famous Climbers in Canada by Phil Dowling, Hurtig Publishers, Edmonton, 1979, 258 pages including index, 16 photographs, $13.95.This is a charmingly written partial biography of ten selected persons who have contributed heavily t...
OTHER INCIDENTS AND EVENTSClues to fate of two mountaineers lost in the Northern Cascades in 1947. By referring to page 11 in the “Report of the Safety Committee of the American Alpine Club May, 1948,” one can read about a tragic accident which fo...
Paddy Englishman, Paddy Scotsman, and Paddy Irishman (Jim Osborne, Rob MacCallum, and I) arrived in La Paz in one piece but subsequently fell apart when we reached base camp in the Condoriri Valley. A heady cocktail of AMS, gastroenteritis, mild...
Pumori Tragedy. Jon Giersson, Thorsteinn Gudjonsson, Kristinn Runarsson from Iceland and I from Scotland established Base Camp on October 2 at 5300 meters west of Kala Pattar. Our permit was for the south ridge of Pumori, but as an Australian team...
Yerupaja, Limitless Madness to summit ridge. My latest adventure began at the end of June. We were three Slovenians—Matevz Kramer, Tadej Zorman, and me—whose goal was to climb a new route in the Cordillera Huayhuash. I had climbed the Southwest Fa...
The rainy season ended at the end of May, and I’ve returned to the Hampaturi. I pitch the tent near my vehicle and fall asleep. At 3 a.m. I set out for the southwest face, which I’ve been dreaming of for years: I’m well acclimatized and during t...
FAILURE OF RAPPEL—FAILURE TO CHECK SYSTEMBritish Columbia, Squamish, Smoke BluffsOn May 28, 1989, Deborah Richards and I were finishing up three days of climbing in the Squamish area. I had just finished a lead on Cat’s Crack (5.7 or 5.8, not sure...
AAC, New England Section. The year began with our second Annual Dinner. Almost 90 New Englanders gathered once again to dress up, dine, socialize and travel back in time to vast and faraway mountains. Craigen Bowen assembled a graceful display of ...
Allevano Tower, Avellano pal Verano, and Costumes Rehearsal. While working for a month by massive San Lorenzo Peak as a mountain instructor, I thought about a third attempt to climb a direttis- sima up the northeast pillar of Avellano Tower in the...