CholatseGalen A. RowellIN APRIL 1982 while the first Russian expedition was climbing Mount Everest from Nepal with a cast of nearly a thousand climbers and porters, five of us attempted Cholatse, the last named, unclimbed peak in the Everest regio...

April 2006-April 2007, summary. In April 2006 regulars Walter Haupolter and Albert Precht visited the west side of Jebel Rum and with friends put up three routes: Silver Fox (6a), Pensionier’s Tango (6a+), and Jordan Express (6b). These routes wer...

Egotrip into the AbyssOn Alison Hargreaves, Benoit Chamoux and passage in the mountainsby Reinhold Messnertranslated by Christiane LeitingerHow empty is the abyss of the human soul, suspended for an instant between life and death at eight and a ha...

The Seattle Mountaineers write that they have organized their safety committee into the following groups: education and publicity, climbing safety developments, investigations of accidents and dangerous practice, and a group to study rescue evacua...

Wakhan Corridor, Qala-e-Voust (Qala-e-Hurst or Ust) Glacier exploration; Peak 5,049m; Peak 5,880m attempt. In August Elisabetta Galli, Lucia Foppoli, Angelo Quattrini, and I finished exploring the Qala-e-Voust Glacier in a side valley of the Wakha...

LULIE NETTLETON 1877-1960Miss Lulie Nettleton was born in Minneapolis, graduated from the University of Minnesota, moved to Seattle in 1901, and lived there until her death on February 7, 1960. Her long life was one of outstanding service in three...

Memphis Mountaineers, Inc. Formed in 1978, the Memphis Mountaineers, Inc., of Memphis, Tennessee, continued to expand its activities in 1983. Following the example set by last year’s successful trip to the Wind Rivers in Wyoming, 14 of our group w...

Langford’s Grand Teton DiaryAnnotated by William M. BuelerIntroductory note: On July 29, 1872, Nathaniel Langford and James Stevenson returned from an attempt on the Grand Teton and claimed they had attained the summit. Their claim was generally a...

Earthquake on EI CapBrock WagstaffcLIMBERS, MORE than most people,seem to be aware of just how precarious their hold on this world is. When the wind is howling, and the rumble of avalanches pound a rhythm of terror into the very essence of your be...

Peak 10,497. On August 10 Graham Matthews and Irene Ortenburger climbed this peak which separates the two branches of Moran Canyon. An easy climb up the south side led to the old, crumbling summit cairn which contained no note. The cairn may have ...

Alone on the John Muir Wall, El CapitanRoyal S. RobbinsI knew that I had done the right thing when I learned that Jim McCarthy had soloed High Exposure. McCarthy, of course, is the rock of the East Coast. He’s an ace climber, lawyer, and karate ex...

Mount Wister, West Arête of North Face. To the right of the chimney utilized by the first party on the north face of Wister is a long, continuous ridge leading from Avalanche Canyon to the upper west ridge of Wister. This important ridge was first...

STRANDED—RAPPEL ROPES FROZEN, DARKNESS, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTNew Hampshire, Cathedral LedgeOn January 28, 1992, two ice climbers (early 20s) got to within about 50 feet of the top of Cathedral Ledge. Because of approaching darkness, they rappelled ...

Nun. Two Japanese expeditions were on the west ridge of Nun this year. One, led by Kazuyoshi Kondo, put Takashi Miyazaki, Tadaharu Kannari and Masayoshi Yamamoto on the summit on September 1. The other group, led by Yataka Nakagawa, was not succes...

SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH*WEATHER ON MOUNT MCKINLEYJohn G. Houghton, University of Nevada at RenoIn 1968 and 1969, weather observations were taken on the McKinley West Buttress Route by four expeditions. These included two climbing groups, the 1968 Neva...

The Folly. Just east of Rixon’s pinnacle is a huge 800-foot-high exfoliation flake separated only at the top. The first ascent of this "spire” was made in September by James Bridwell and myself in 10 hours of very strenuous climbing. The first 3 l...

The Mountain InstituteSummary of 2002 activities. The Mountain Institute (www.mountain.org) is a non-profit organization whose mission is to conserve high priority mountain ecosystems, improve mountain livelihoods, and promote the well-being of mo...

CHARLES HAROLD WILTS1920-1991Charles (Chuck) Harold Wilts, a 26-year member of the American Alpine Club, died of a heart attack on March 12 while hiking on Echo Mountain in the San Gabriel Mountains, north of Pasadena, California. He was bom on Ja...

The Friendly Mountains, edited by Roderick Peattie. 8vo., 341 pages with 23 illustrations, 2 geologic figures, appendices and index. New York: Vanguard Press, 1942. Price $3.50.Those who know Mountain Geography will have no doubt as to its author’...

Oregon, Mt. Jefferson—Robert A. Trahon (18) with his companion David L. Neitting attempted to climb the Jefferson Park Glacier route on Sunday, July 13. The weather was warm and clear. They reached the lower bergschrund with no difficulty. Here th...