Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Kashmir and Jammu, Dzo Jongo

Dzo Jongo. This lovely peak (6120 meters, 20,079 feet), which rises above the Markha valley in Zanskar, was climbed by Germans Frank Seubert and Ms. Birgit Rossberg on August 17. They followed the north ridge.Harish Kapadia, Editor, Himalayan Journal


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Miyar Valley, Goya Peak, First Ascent

Goya Peak, first ascent. Our small multinational team of Jeremy Frimer (Canada), Sarah Hart (Canada), Michel van der Spek (The Netherlands) and I made two first ascents of alpine rock climbs in the Miyar Valley. We established base camp at the usu...

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Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Central Andes, Nevado Tres Cruces, Various Ascents

Nevado Tres Cruces, Various Ascents. A joint expedition by Bob Villarreal (USA), Fritz Radun (Germany) and Greg Horne (Canada) spent March 8 to 20 on this massif, climbing all three 6000-meter summits (first ascents in 1937 and 1973). The north su...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Graves Lake Dome, South Face and Spider Peak, North Face, Wind River Range

Graves Lake Dome, South Face and Spider Peak, North Face, Wind River Range. On July 29, after an invigorating 18-mile approach from the south, I completed a solo ascent of the Becky aid route on Graves Lake Dome (P 10818). Eliminating the aid on t...


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded, Fall on Rock, Climbing Unroped, Exceeding Abilities, No Hard Hat, West Virginia, Seneca Rocks, Old Man's Route

STRANDED, FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, EXCEEDINGABILITIES, NO HARD HATWest Virginia, Seneca Rocks, Old Man’s RouteOn June 6, 1994, Alex Fraser (23) fell to his death at Seneca Rocks. Here is the account of his partner.We hiked up to the wall, p...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Colorado, New Climbs, 1982

New Colorado Climbs, 1982. Despite the intense new-route activity of the last few years, climbers in the Boulder area continue to find first ascents on both new and established crags. In early spring, Alec Sharp and Matt Lavender climbed Victim of...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Narayan Parbat

Narayan Parbat. A report from Naini Tal, also in July 1951, tells of a three-month journey by two Swiss mountaineers in the Badrinath area. Bad weather prevented exploration of many high peaks; but the two, who used no porters the entire time, suc...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Inspiration Peak, First Winter Ascent

Inspiration Peak, first winter ascent. On February 7 Forrest Murphy and I left the Goodell Creek trailhead early and, using snowshoes, made it to a camp midway up the Terror Glacier that afternoon. The unusually low snowpack helped make the approa...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Foraker

Mount Foraker. The expedition of the Academic Research Team of Tokushima University was led by Takashi Watanabe. We made Base Camp on the Kahiltna Glacier on June 26. Camp I was placed at the foot of the icefall on June 28 and Camp II at 8500 on J...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, British Columbia–Coast Range, Mount Winstone, North Face, and North Face Direct, 1983

Mount Winstone, North Face, and North Face Direct, 1983. In early August 1983, Fred Beckey, Greg Collum, Jim Nelson, Chuck Gerson and I walked up the glacier below Winstone’s north face. Fred had to turn back because of injuries from a recent car ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Rocky Mountains of Canada, Allan Peak and Mt. Ennis

Allan Peak and Mt. Ennis. The route described under Mt. Allan should be applied to Mt. Ennis, and, unless other information is forthcoming, Allan Peak is considered to be as yet unascended. Mt. Ennis has been ascended by two routes: (1) The probab...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Bhutan, Kankar Pünzum Attempt, 1986

Kankar Pünzum Attempt, 1986. (The report on this expedition has only just now become available. —Editor.) A team of five Britons, an American and a New Zealander was led by Steve Berry. In October of 1986 they took ten days to reach Base Camp at 1...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, China, Shishapangma

Shishapangma. Dr. Makoto Hara led another Nagoya High-Mountain Research Institute expedition, this time to Shishapangma. All members reached the summit by the normal route. One of the members, Masaaki Tomita, made an amazingly fast ascent from Adv...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Cashan Este, Mathi Matias

Cashan Este, Mathi, Matias. In July 1998 I departed from Olleros and walked toward Rurec's Quebrada (creek), before arriving at Tararhua Lake (4400m), where I set up my tent. From there I went to the southeast face of Cashan (5723m). I climbed in ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, South Early Winter Spire, North Face, 1988

South Early Winter Spire, North Face, 1988. In August 1988, Doug Ingersoll and I climbed a partially new route of the west face of North Early Winter Spire. From a point just below the chockstone between the two spires, we climbed directly up to a...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Ten Peak Mountain, North Buttress

Ten Peak Mountain, North Buttress. This is the rather prominent buttress which can be seen on the Sierra Club poster, “The Wild Cascades. In mid-August, Phil Leatherman and I made the approach via the White River trail and a cross-country high rou...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Bath Mountain, Tulainyo Tower and Mount Whitney

Bath Mountain, Tulainyo Tower and Mount Whitney. In September, Kenn Kenaga and I climbed a new route up the south side of Bath Mountain, just left of the southeast buttress. Low on the south face are two dihedrals; our route started on the left on...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, International Kanchenjunga Expedition

International Kanchenjunça Expedition. Dispatches in the New York Times of May 24th report the death of Chettan, a veteran porter of all three Everest expeditions, who was killed by an avalanche on the upper Kanchenjunga Glacier on the northwester...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Hindu Kush, Afghanistan, Koh-i-Mondi, North Face

Koh-i-Mondi, North Face. Our expedition was led by Peter Board-man and composed of Bill Church, Chris FitzHugh, Oliver and Margaret Stansfield, Bob Watson and me. We approached the Jouomeh valley (spelled Youmeh by Ian Rowe in A.A.S., 1971 and giv...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, McKinley, South Face, Milan Kriššak Memorial Route

McKinley, South Face, Milan Kriššak Memorial Route. Mark Bunker and I completed the second ascent of this route, taking nine days Base Camp to Base Camp. Unlike the Koreans, who were on the American Direct, we climbed without fixed ropes alpine-st...