On 13 July 1947 three members of the Stanford Alpine Club were climbing the “Rotten Chimney” on the higher spire. The rock of this chimney would ordinarily be considered safe; but, since this pitch is vertical and in parts overhanging, its somewha...
Anglo-Danish Mountain Survey, Watkins Mountains, East Greenland. The Watkins Mountains are situated on the east coast in the unexplored area south of Scoresby Sund known as Knud Rasmussens Land. The range was discovered by Gino Watkins from the ai...
Mount Evans, Black Wall. From the Chicago Lakes Overlook, near Summit Lake, on the Mount Evans Highway, it is possible to see a sheer 700-foot white-granite wall, the rim of which is just over 13,000 feet. Until mid-summer, the wall is often wet, ...
Flight Path Peak, east ridge, and other routes. In May, John Durham, Bob Brownsburger, Bob Jacobs, and I spent a week of unusually fine and clear weather climbing peaks off a spur of the upper Baldwin Glacier in the St. Elias Mountains, near the C...
HAPE, RAPID ASCENT, WEATHERAlaska, Mount McKinleyThe weather on Mt. McKinley during the months of April and May was consistently cold and stormy, which prevented climbing expeditions to move high on the West Buttress route. From May 21-25 there wa...
FALLING ROCKAlaska, Denali National Park, Mount McKinley, West ButtressThe Alaska Mountaineering School (AMS)-8 expedition led by Rob Gowler flew to basecamp on the southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier on June 10. The group progressed steadily u...
United States: ClimbsA Westside Traverse of Mt. Rainier. In the course of an ascent of the Tahoma Glacier on the W. side of Rainier in 1948, George Senner’s and my interests were drawn to the rugged and seldom visited Sunset Amphitheatre and to wh...
As part two of the Year of the Snake Expeditions 2001, I arrived at Kulusuk in July. I then took a boat through a maze of icebergs to the small village of Tasiilaq, also known as Ammassalik, home to about 2,500 Inuit people and a few Danes. Greenl...
Akuliarusinguaq Peninsula, various ascents; Sortehul Fjord, Old Mans Benefit; Northumberland Island, traverse and various ascents. I’ve now made five Tilman-type expeditions to Greenland. The latest, in summer 2009, involved sailing my Westerly 10...
A.A.C., New York Section. Though the AAC's headquarters are no longer in Manhattan, the New York Section is still the second largest of the Club's eleven sections with over 370 members. Membership growth has been rapid, resulting in "sold out" eve...
A Church in the Alps, by Cicely Williams. London: Commonwealth and Continental Church Society, 1970. 46 pages, 14 photographs. Price $1.00.A quiet little book pulling together such diverse threads as the Matterhorn disaster, the Alpine Club Centen...
Nalumasortoq (2,045m), south-southwest face of Central Pillar, new route, One Way Ticket. In July the first Russian team to climb in Greenland visited the Tasermiut Fjord with two main goals: the first ascent of a new big wall route on Nalumatorso...
Gang Ben Chen. We left Lhasa on March 22 and established Base Camp at 15,250 feet on March 27 and Advance Base at 18,700 feet on April 4, both on the Boron Plain. Camp I was on the small glacier north of Gang Ben Chen at 20,450 feet. We placed Cam...
Ocshapalca, Variante Peruana. Guillermo Mejia and I installed the tent at the moraine camp in September 1998. Our new route on the south face of Ocshapalca (Variante Peruana, 650m, ED-) begins to the right of the central buttress and the Alquimia ...
In May Geoff Bonney, Sandy Gregson, and I, veterans of many Greenland expeditions, were joined in the Saven Range by four younger U.K. climbers, Steve Allsopp, Vernon Needham, Steve Wilson, and Simon Yates. I had seen these beautiful,little-explor...
Mount Hood, Illumination Rock. In May, I soloed the eastwall of Illumination Rock, a columnar-jointed spire, jutting out from Mount Hood’s Reed Glacier. After attempting the wall earlier, I used the Barnett System for the 5.11, 160-foot initial di...
Cerro Francés, Amberer Island, Palmer Peninsula. The expedition was composed of Martin Donovan, Jorge Ruiz Luque, Ismael Palma, Alfredo Frageiro and me as leader. We left Ushuaia aboard the Argentine Navy transport Bahía Aguirre and after a fiftee...
Mount Everest Post-Monsoon Attempt. The British expedition which attempted the southwest face of Everest in the post-monsoon period was fighting from the beginning against time. It was led by Christian Boning- ton with Lieutenant Colonel James Rob...
Pariakaka is located in the Yauyos area between the borders of Lima and Junin, where such other snowy peaks as Collquepurco, Vicunita, Tunshu, Tatajaico, and Paca are found. From the main highway between Lima and Huancayo, go through Oroya and Pac...
P 4245, “Exfoliation Dome” north of Helena Peak. On September 15, the north ridge of this uncharacteristic granite formation a few miles south of Darrington was climbed by Greg Ball and me. Approach was from the west left of a slabby stream gully ...