“Scarlet Slipstream,” Cedar Grove, Kings Canyon National Park. In July, Eric Rhicard, Vaino Kodas and I climbed this 6-pitch climb, four of which are 5.10 and the other two 5.11. The rock is superb and the route follows a prominent red water strea...
Technique de L’Alpinisme, edited by Bernard Amy, Paris: Arthaud,1977. 404 pages, 266 sketches, 325 photographs.Finally, the book I wish I had written on climbing has appeared. Technique de L’Alpinisme, edited by Bernard Amy, is an authoritative co...
Hushe Valley, Karakoram. The Royal Air Force Karakoram Expedition consisted of twelve British members, Squadron Leader John Sims, deputy leader, Robin Wilkinson, Derek Bottomer, Peter Nichols, Christopher Jonson, Norman Ridley, John Jones, doctor,...
Lake Louise-Jasper Highway. Climbers and fire wardens alike have noted the misplacement of several of the road indicators between Bow Lake and the Columbia Icefield chalet, notably those arrows supposed to point to Peyto Peak, Mt. Barbette, Mt. Mi...
On 13 July 1947 three members of the Stanford Alpine Club were climbing the “Rotten Chimney” on the higher spire. The rock of this chimney would ordinarily be considered safe; but, since this pitch is vertical and in parts overhanging, its somewha...
Anglo-Danish Mountain Survey, Watkins Mountains, East Greenland. The Watkins Mountains are situated on the east coast in the unexplored area south of Scoresby Sund known as Knud Rasmussens Land. The range was discovered by Gino Watkins from the ai...
Mount Evans, Black Wall. From the Chicago Lakes Overlook, near Summit Lake, on the Mount Evans Highway, it is possible to see a sheer 700-foot white-granite wall, the rim of which is just over 13,000 feet. Until mid-summer, the wall is often wet, ...
Flight Path Peak, east ridge, and other routes. In May, John Durham, Bob Brownsburger, Bob Jacobs, and I spent a week of unusually fine and clear weather climbing peaks off a spur of the upper Baldwin Glacier in the St. Elias Mountains, near the C...
HAPE, RAPID ASCENT, WEATHERAlaska, Mount McKinleyThe weather on Mt. McKinley during the months of April and May was consistently cold and stormy, which prevented climbing expeditions to move high on the West Buttress route. From May 21-25 there wa...
FALLING ROCKAlaska, Denali National Park, Mount McKinley, West ButtressThe Alaska Mountaineering School (AMS)-8 expedition led by Rob Gowler flew to basecamp on the southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier on June 10. The group progressed steadily u...
United States: ClimbsA Westside Traverse of Mt. Rainier. In the course of an ascent of the Tahoma Glacier on the W. side of Rainier in 1948, George Senner’s and my interests were drawn to the rugged and seldom visited Sunset Amphitheatre and to wh...
As part two of the Year of the Snake Expeditions 2001, I arrived at Kulusuk in July. I then took a boat through a maze of icebergs to the small village of Tasiilaq, also known as Ammassalik, home to about 2,500 Inuit people and a few Danes. Greenl...
Akuliarusinguaq Peninsula, various ascents; Sortehul Fjord, Old Mans Benefit; Northumberland Island, traverse and various ascents. I’ve now made five Tilman-type expeditions to Greenland. The latest, in summer 2009, involved sailing my Westerly 10...
A.A.C., New York Section. Though the AAC's headquarters are no longer in Manhattan, the New York Section is still the second largest of the Club's eleven sections with over 370 members. Membership growth has been rapid, resulting in "sold out" eve...
A Church in the Alps, by Cicely Williams. London: Commonwealth and Continental Church Society, 1970. 46 pages, 14 photographs. Price $1.00.A quiet little book pulling together such diverse threads as the Matterhorn disaster, the Alpine Club Centen...
Nalumasortoq (2,045m), south-southwest face of Central Pillar, new route, One Way Ticket. In July the first Russian team to climb in Greenland visited the Tasermiut Fjord with two main goals: the first ascent of a new big wall route on Nalumatorso...
Gang Ben Chen. We left Lhasa on March 22 and established Base Camp at 15,250 feet on March 27 and Advance Base at 18,700 feet on April 4, both on the Boron Plain. Camp I was on the small glacier north of Gang Ben Chen at 20,450 feet. We placed Cam...
Ocshapalca, Variante Peruana. Guillermo Mejia and I installed the tent at the moraine camp in September 1998. Our new route on the south face of Ocshapalca (Variante Peruana, 650m, ED-) begins to the right of the central buttress and the Alquimia ...
In May Geoff Bonney, Sandy Gregson, and I, veterans of many Greenland expeditions, were joined in the Saven Range by four younger U.K. climbers, Steve Allsopp, Vernon Needham, Steve Wilson, and Simon Yates. I had seen these beautiful,little-explor...
Mount Hood, Illumination Rock. In May, I soloed the eastwall of Illumination Rock, a columnar-jointed spire, jutting out from Mount Hood’s Reed Glacier. After attempting the wall earlier, I used the Barnett System for the 5.11, 160-foot initial di...