Roraima, Cutting the Line. Our expedition to the Pakaraima Mountains in the southwestern corner of Guyana had two objectives: to establish a new route on the east face of Mt. Roraima; and to set up solar power in the village of Wayalayeng, a small...
TABLE III1951-831959-8319841984USACAN.USACAN.TerrainRock 194225013614Snow 1296219367Ice 893574River 11310Unknown 12620Ascent or DescentAscent 16422621267Descent 12961745212Unknown 2163447Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock 1186125984Slip on snow o...
Big Four, North Headwall. In 1973 Ron Miller and Ben Guydelkon climbed this route. NCCS III, F8.
LAWRENCE GEORGE COVENEY 1898-1981Lawrence was a man of many interests. In addition to a successful business career and a lifelong love of music and literature, he was an enthusiastic outdoors man and mountaineer. His death on July 27, 1981 after a...
Svobodnaya Korea (Free Korea Peak), North Face, New Route. From February 21-26, a Krasnoyarsk team led by Valery Balezin, and comprising Vladimir Alexandrov, Andrew Zakrepa, Yuri Stepanov, Alexander Terentiev, and Sergey Cherezov, established a ne...
In ALASKA THERE are many challenges. Climbers bored with the mountains of the lower 48 states leave to check out the noise they hear rumbling down from the north. Most return, and countless magazines and books emerge from countless coffee shops ...
LOSS OF CONTROL–VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, IMPROPER USE OF CRAMPONSWashington, Mount Rainier, Inter GlacierOn July 15 at 1348, the communication center notified Camp Schurman that a climber had broken his leg near the bottom of the Inter Glacier. Climbin...
University PeakThe wild card of the Wrangell-St. Elias by Carlos BuhlerMy eyes traced our complicated route through the last problematic crevasses. Suddenly, the peaceful silence on the glacier was interrupted by the distant whine of an approachin...
Nepal Himalaya. Shiro Shirahata. Yama-Kei Publishers, Tokyo, 1983. In the United States, Heian International, P.O. Box 2402, South San Francisco. 232 pages. 115 full-page color plates (10" x 14½") with commentary on each, map showing geographic po...
Southern Continental Icecap, exploration and ascents. Chilean climber Camilo Rada, interested in classical andinism, asked me in 2001 for details of the 1986 and 1999 exploration and climbing visits I made to the Riso Patrón Range and Dos Hermanos...
BrigupanthSusan Coons, Harvard Mountaineering ClubI REMEMBER SPRING in another country, the snow just gone from the dry meadows. We walked up river with Hindu pilgrims seeking the source of the Ganges. Women in bright saris asked us why we had no ...
Cerro Pier Giorgio, Patagonia. The Cerro Pier Giorgio (ca. 9500 feet) lies northwest of Lake Viedma, closing in on the north the valley of the Torre Glacier. This glacier descends from Pier Giorgio between FitzRoy and the Cerro Torre, which are si...
LIGHTNINGMaine, Mount Katahdin, Baxter State ParkOn August 27, 1990, David Passalacqua (13) was struck and killed by lightning while hiking the Knife Edge near Pamola Peak. He was with a Boy Scout troop consisting of ten Scouts and two leaders. An...
Ancohuma's South-Southeast RidgeDavid IslesJorge Urioste is a persuasive man, and very enthusiastic about mountaineering possibilities in his native Bolivia. While climbing in New Hampshire, he would describe to us the fine weather of the Cordille...
Kara-su valley, Asan, northwest face, The Hammer and Sickle and a free ascent of an existing aid line. During July and August, a team of four Australian climbers, Steve Anderton, Julian Bell, David Gliddon and Kent Jensen, spent 40 days living and...
Colorado, San Juan Mountains. Personnel: participants in the summer outing of the Denver Junior group of the Colorado Mountain Club. August 23rd was the last full day of the outing. Mark Stanton and three friends approached me (Truman P. Young, II...
The First Ascent of Mount RussellHELLMUT RAITHEL, Deutscher AlpenvereinMount Russell lies on the southwestern corner of Mount McKinley National Park. From one of our two American companions, Bob Goodwin, who in 1961 had made an unsuccessful attemp...
SNOWBRIDGE COLLAPSE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, PROBE POLE Alaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 17, about 1600, a snowbridge over a crevasse collapsed while three members of the Je Ju University expedition were preparing a campsite around 15,000 feet on the We...
Qong Muztag, First Ascent. The Waseda University Alpine Club of Tokyo sent an expedition to the Kun Lun Range of Sinkiang, China, in the summer of 2000. They made the first ascent of Qong Muztag (6962m) on August 15. The 12-member expedition, whic...
On July 3, Cindy Lu (32) and I, Leo Wu (35), climbed Royal Arches. Despite it being our first really long climb, it had gone well. After starting at 5:30 a.m. we reached the first rappel at 4:30 p.m. Sunset was at 8:30 p.m., and we expected to b...