Mount Winstone, North Face, and North Face Direct, 1983. In early August 1983, Fred Beckey, Greg Collum, Jim Nelson, Chuck Gerson and I walked up the glacier below Winstone’s north face. Fred had to turn back because of injuries from a recent car accident. The rest of us split into two groups. Chuck Gerson and I climbed an easy rock wall left of a cascading glacier, then followed an ice gully, just west of a subsidiary rock peak, to the summit ridge. Jim Nelson and Greg Collum climbed moderately difficult rock directly to the summit ice cliffs, then surmounted them in several extreme pitches. We met on top and descended. Both climbs were Grade III.

William Pilling