British Columbia, Glacier National Park. On August 4, Joseph Shlitz, Harriet Deleuran, Anne Stettner, and Louvonia Rudolf were ascending the Illecillewaet Glacier, practicing ice technique en route to the summit of Lookout Mountain. The four membe...
Early Days In the Range of Light: Encounters With Legendary Mountaineers. Daniel Arnold. Counterpoint, 2009. 432 pages. Hardcover. $29.95.When it comes to mountaineering literature, California’s Sierra Nevada is perhaps the most storied of North A...
King Albert Medal of Merit Award. The King Albert Memorial Foundation awarded its King Albert Medal of Merit to Dr. Charles S. Houston, who is an Honorary Member of the AAC. The King Albert Foundation is an institution founded in memory of the lat...
AAC, Sierra Nevada Section. The year started with a sometimes-annual Markleeville ski trip. A few hardy souls were out to enjoy the “pow” and soak tired, weary limbs in, where else, but Grover Hot Springs. More people should attend this trip.We he...
Mt. Sholes and Mt. Tassles, First Ascents. In May, Geoff Hornby and Mike Smith made the first climbing visit to the Fake Peak Glacier since the August, 1906, visit and photographic session by Frederick Cook and Edward Barrill as part of their clai...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonOn August 22 at 1143, Ranger Leo Larson was at the Lower Saddle when he received word of a possible incident on the Lower Exum Ridge of the Grand Teton. Additional i...
Birutaso (ca. 6,550m), first ascent. After the last-minute permit fiascos that stymied an attempt to reach the Lawa Valley in 2004, Jo Kippax and I were apprehensive about how our 2005 attempt would work out. However, the permit process and access...
The End of the AffairFirst~ascent potential in southeastern Greenland.Mike LibeckiI have asked many of my friends and fellow climbers, and I’ve asked myself: Why? When we see grand, unclimbed rock walls, why do we become obsessed with finding ways...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED, INADEQUATE CLOTHING, EXCEEDING ABILITIESNew Mexico, Organ Mountains, Organ NeedleOn December 1 John Smith (name changed) was reported overdue from a solo climb of the 4th-class route up the Organ Needle (9...
1957 Advance of Muldrow Glacier. Muldrow Glacier on the north flank of Mount McKinley in the Alaska Range advanced vigorously in 1957. The lower 20 miles of the 35-mile long glacier had been wasting downward for the last 100 years. In January 1957...
Sometimes you meet someone who easily shares your dreams. On first meeting Colin Haley I could see that he was an open minded, highly motivated climber not easily distracted by mere obstacles. He was keen to explore all the possibilities within si...
Alaska, Kenai Range, Mt. Alice. (See accident report) As Hitt disappeared from sight, Hoeman and Johnston told the other two less experienced climbers to wait on the ridge while they followed the path of the small avalanche caused by Hitt’s fall. ...
FATIGUE—FALL ON ICE, INEXPERIENCEColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Main FallsOn December 8 about 1000, Aaron Shupp (22) fell 20 to 30 feet while leading the Main Falls Route (I WI4) at Hidden Falls. Shupp said that he was about 10 feet beyon...
Wisconsin, Bascom Hall (University of Wisconsin). On 26 June at 1:30 a.m., Charles Cary (20) began climbing Bascom Hall, the administration building of the University of Wisconsin. His companion, Delbert Marshall (19) remained on the ground. Both ...
Huayna Potosí, West Face. The increasingly popular 1000-meter West Face of Huayna Potosí (6088m) had very few ascents this year due to poor conditions. Spaniard Pere Vilarasau and Andorran Frank Van Herreweghe climbed the American Route (later nam...
Mt. Winstone, Passport Couloir. Forrest Murphy, Don Serl, and I climbed the Passport Couloir (TD-) on Mt. Winstone in the Tchaikazan Valley, British Columbia (www.bivouac.com/ArxPg.asp?ArxId=1247) over a long weekend in September. Climbed on the 2...
Fairweather, Eliza and Other Ascents and Traverse from Mouth of Alsek River to Davidson Glacier and Chilkat Inlet. Our trip members were Betsy Fletcher, Craig Hollinger, Markus Kellerhals, Peter Stone and I as leader. After placing food caches by ...
MOUNT DICKEY has one of the largest and steepest rock faces in the Alaska Range and no doubt this was the reason why Tomas Gross picked it. The only previous route on the face was climbed by Rowell, Roberts, and Ward on the buttress to the left ...
After two weeks rock climbing and road tripping with my wife, I arrived home to a phone call from Chad Kellogg: “Dude, when are we going to the Bugs! We have two weeks before leaving for China and we have to get in a training climb.” I checked t...
Mount Index, North Peak, Supercouloir. On February 8, Jim Nelson and I hiked from Lake Serene through a 1360-foot pass to Anderson Creek. Within two hours we were at the base of the west face of the north peak of Index. A couloir, visible from the...