Early Morning Spire, Southwest Face variation. On July 4, Lowell Skoog, Gary Brill and I climbed the southwest face of Early Morning Spire. Where the face steepens two-thirds of the way up, we varied from the original line. Instead of climbing the...
LIGHTNINGBritish Columbia, Bugaboo Glacier Provincial Park, Snowpatch SpireA.B. and B.A. were descending the Kraus-McCarthy rappel route in August when an electrical storm developed. Lightning struck the top of the Spire when they were about four ...
Nanda Devi East, east face, attempt. Marco Dalla Longa led a 12-member Italian expedition to attempt the first ascent of the east face of Nanda Devi East (7,434m). The team approached via Munsiary and the Milam Valley, establishing base camp on Au...
Abi Gamin, Ascent by a One-Legged Man. When Baba Manindra Pal was 19, he lost a leg in a railroad accident. The next year he became a sadhu. He led an ascetic life of severe self-discipline, learning to live “on snow and stone with little food and...
Cerro Torre, West Face, Complete Ascent. Only one ascent was accomplished in the ‘96-’97 season; it was in fact the first complete ascent of the mountain since 1991. Spaniards Simon Elias and Josu Merino climbed the Ferrari route on the west face,...
The Penguins, New Route. On the west side of the Penguins, Todd Gordon, Mary Ann Loehr and Margie Floyd established Petrified Bear’s Dick (5.9 A2) in April.Eric BjØrnstadt
Mount Tatlow, Northeast Face. In September, Mark Bebie, Mark Hutson, and I climbed a steep and remarkable route, the cascading ice cliffs of the spectacular, narrow glacier on the northeast face of Mount Tatlow. The route can be seen clearly on th...
Ultar Sar, South Ridge, Attempt. A Pakistan-Korean joint expedition to Ultar Sar (7388 m) failed on an attempt on the south ridge due to bad weather that lasted 20 days. The expedition— the first of its kind—featured two Pakistani climbers, Hidaya...
Pucaranra West Face. Several days of perfect weather were not enough to stabilize the snow at the base of Palcaraju and so Thor Kieser and I decided to try a line of the west face of Pucaranra across the Quebrada Cojup. There were several interest...
Manaslu, East Ridge and Northeast Face, and Tragedy. We had originally hoped to make a new route on Manaslu’s southwest face but in Kathmandu we were permitted by the Tourism Ministry to change to the east ridge, which had been unsuccessfully trie...
Tukuche. Three members of this Spanish Catalan team, Pere Giro, José María Jane and leader Lluis Gómez, reached the summit on October 4. They believe they were the first to ski a part of their ascent and descent of Tukuche. They skied from Camp I ...
Torre Innominata. On January 5, Argentine Carlos Domínguez de San Juan and I completed the second or third ascent of the first-ascent route of the Torre Innominata (Rafael; 2501 meters, 8205 feet) in 2½ days. We climbed ten mixed pitches and four ...
Mount Whitney, East Face Direct. In August 1974, Gary Colliver and I completed a new route on the east face of Mount Whitney. We started climbing in a crack system which starts to the left of the washboard. After seven pitches of F8 to F9 climbing...
Matterhorn: Despite the bad weather prevailing during the summer of 1931, or rather perhaps because of it, two outstanding climbs were effected on this peak, known far and wide for its distinctive form and its impression of inaccessibility. The tr...
The Mountain Rescue Council of Seattle is an extremely active group and does excellent work in rescue and education. They have worked out a well integrated rescue technique involving police, Coast Guard, and a volunteer group of mountaineers. They...
Koshi Toshi Attempt, Kunlun Mountains. An eight-member expedition under the leadership of Hisahiro Moro’oka attempted Koshi Toshi Mustagh (6699 meters, 21,979 feet). They had a difficult approach and got to Base Camp west of the peak at 3800 meter...
Maine, Mt. Katahdin—At 2:00 p.m. on April 5, 1954, while descending the Saddle Slide, unroped and without an ice ax, Ernest Oikelmus (21), a member of the Harvard Outing Club, lost a crampon. Apparently it was a failure of the strap which either b...
Glencoe Spire, South Face. This route, which lies on the western portion of the south face, was climbed first by William Buckingham and Bea Vogel on July 28. From the base of the headwall below the black dike and Glencoe Spire and just to the east...
Sani Pakhush. German Hubert Bleicher led five Germans who climbed Sani Pakhush (6885 meters, 22,590 feet). Details are lacking.
Schoolhouse, Windowsill. A window, beneath the large boulder in the notch just west of the Schoolhouse, was reached directly from the north by Robert Fenichel, Mary L. Denman, and Robert Hoguet, III, on August 12. The route used was the face just ...