Asia, China, Kongur Tragedy

Publication Year: 1982.

Kongur Tragedy. Three prominent Japanese climbers, Yoji Teranishi, Shin’e Matsumi and Mitsunori Shigi, were lost while trying a new route on Kongur. Naoki Takada was the leader. Because the British were on the southern side, the Japanese went to the north, where they planned both a siege and an alpine-style climb. In early June they acclimatized on Mustagh Ata. The three who were later lost made a ski ascent and descent. Base Camp was established early in July at 11,500 feet. The siege party was to climb the east ridge from the Qurghan valley and the alpine climbers were to try the north ridge from the next valley west. Progress on the siege was slow. Teranishi, Shigi and Matsumi set up their Base Camp at 12,150 feet on July 16 and set out. They were last seen at 20,675 feet on July 23 the day before the weather turned bad for a week. No trace of the climbers could be found. Base Camp was evacuated on August 18. More details, photos and a map are published in Iwa To Yuki N° 85.