The Chopping Block, first winter ascent. On February 14, 2004, I hiked in via Goodell Creek and The Barrier to climb the Southeast Face route. The next day, from below the east face, I climbed a steep, north-facing gully to gain the southeast ridg...
FALL ON ICE, EXHAUSTIONAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Louise FallsOn December 31, 1981, two men were ice climbing on Louise Falls at Lake Louise. The leader was making the final move when he fell approximately 50 feet. His fall was held by his belayer ...
FALL THROUGH CORNICE, OFF ROUTE, UNROPEDAlberta, Banff National Park, Mount BalfourOn April 12, N.F., a ski patroller from Whistler and member of the ACC Whistler section, was skiing the Wapta Icefield traverse with two companions, D.S. and G.M. T...
Mount Allen, Goodsirs Group. On July 21, Gertrude Smith, Don Redman, Bernie de Vos and I made the third ascent of Mount Allen by a new route. Climbing from the Canadian Alpine Club Camp we crossed the lower Vaux Glacier to about the middle of the ...
Makalu II or Kangchungtse Attempt. Armando Menocal, Jim Jennings, Ken Morr, Geoff Radford, Mike Warburton, my wife Elizabeth and I arrived at Tumlingtar on April 17 and established Base Camp on April 26. We gradually moved up towards Makalu II, an...
Siula Grande, West Face, Avoiding the Touch. On June 16, Carlos Buhler and I completed a new route on the west face of Siula Grande in the Cordillera Hauyhuash of Peru. This was the same mountain face on which the British climbers Joe Simpson and ...
Mount Foraker. A Japanese expedition which climbed Mount McKinley sent two members, Gentaro Sakae and Hidenobu Tezuka, to the summit of Foraker. It is not known by which route.
Mount Everest. Our expedition consisted of New Zealander Nick Banks, American Ray Genet, Swiss Hans von Känel, Germans Tilman Fischbach, Günter Kämpfe, Dr. Herman Warth, my wife Hannelore Schmatz and me as leader. We left Kathmandu on July 31 but ...
Pumori. The four members of our expedition were Pierre Faivre, Jean-François Lemoine, Guy Mevellec and I, all mountain guides. We made an alpine-style ascent of the south ridge (French route of 1972) and descended the east ridge, the normal route....
Peaks on the Kaskawulsh Glacier. Six members from the Queen Mary College Mountaineering Club of the University of London undertook a two-week expedition to the Kaskawulsh Glacier. We commenced from the south end of Kluane Lake on July 11 and proce...
From April 14 to May 5 Louise Jarry, Vicki Sahanatien, Doug Stern, Vivian Wasiuta, and I made a ski traverse of an unnamed icefield on the Cumberland Peninsula from Iqalugajut Fiord to Kaniqturusiq Fiord (south fork of Padle Fiord), all east of Ki...
Vanguard Peak. The same party. Listed in Guidebook as having elevation of 8800 ft. The summit, which bore no cairn, is as high as Mt. Niles, and therefore about 9600 ft. Guidebook probably refers to slabby E. shoulder prominent from Wapta camp, wi...
North and South of Pelechuco, Cordillera Apolobamba, 1985 and 1986. The tortuous road from Ulla Ulla to Pelechuco roughly divides the Cordillera Apolobamba into a northern half that extends from Bolivia into Peru and a southern half that lies enti...
Coast Mountains, remote areas summary. Craig McGee, Sean Easton, and Eamonn Walsh spent time on the south side of Waddington late in July. Their major accomplishment was an outstanding new ice route (Uber Groove, 600m, ED1 ice to 90°) well left of...
P 6247, South of Gorichen, Arunachal Pradesh, 1987. A 37-member team of the 21st Mountain Division of the Indian Army was led by Lieutenant Colonel Subhendu Sen. They left Chansari railway station in Assam on September 29, 1987 and went via Sela t...
Shishapangma, 1981. In A.A.J., 1982 we mentioned the ascent of Reinhold Messner and Friedl Mutschlechner but we lacked details. The pair got to the summit on May 27, 1981 by a route which lies to the right of the normal route. An article with a sk...
Churup, 496spa-$mos. On October 2,I placed my tent at the upper Churup Lake and the next day broke trail to the base of the wall, where I left ropes, harness, and ice ax. On October 4 it took 1 hour and 30 minutes to return to the base, thanks to ...
Ranrapalca, Southwest Ridge. After having faced the Customs bureaucrats of Callao, we split into two groups. Five of us packed the equipment we brought in the plane and went beyond Huaraz to reconnoiter. The last two of us hired a customs-broker, ...
Lichtenberg Mountain, Winter Ascent. Ken Johnson and I climbed a delightful mixed route on December 16. We skied a couple of miles to Valhalla Lake directly below Lichtenberg Mountain and northeast of Stevens Pass. Leaving our skis behind, we star...
HYPOTHERMIA, WEATHER, INADEQUATE EQUIIPMENT California, Yosemite National Park, Polly DomeOn May 16, 1987, at 1445, three climbers at the top of the third pitch of the Great White Book on Polly Dome were requesting assistance after having been cau...