Denali National Park and Preserve, summary. Life is still fragile in the rangeæour human vulnerability became painfully evident again this year when three brothers perished on Mt. Foraker in an apparent avalanche, and one soloist fell to his death...

Cerro Torre, Patagonia. Just before this Journal west to press, the editor received, thanks to Sr. Rodolfo Benvenuti, of Buenos Aires, an account of the remarkable ascent of the Cerro Torre signed by all surviving members of the Austro-Argentine-I...

FALL ON ROCKS, CLIMBING ALONEWashington, Mount RainierOn June 7, 1982, Dr. Paul Shearer (60), a cardiologist from California and a locally- registered solo climber, broke his leg when he fell. He reported the following to Ranger Bundy Philips.Shea...

Ala Derecha, Possible New Route. On August 7, Erik and Grigota Monasterio (Bolivia-New Zealand) climbed the ice face to the right of Ala Derecha and to the left of the rock band, west of the small but distinctive pyramidal snow peak marked Cerro I...

Chimney Rock, North Peak, North Ridge. From an approach on the Overcoat Glacier, Donna McBain and I did this route on August 14. The first four pitches follow steep, lichen-covered rock, just east of the ridge crest, to the base of a large tower b...

Miyar Nalla, Lahul. Susan Brener, Barry Owen and I were in the Miyar Nalla area in September. After three days’ walking from Udaipur, we reached the glacier which leads up to the Kangla Jot. As we had only a short time at our disposal, we took the...

Grand Teton Direct North Face. Despite the fuming comments of the guide (Willi Unsoeld), Jolene Unsoeld (wife) dallies in bed at Amphitheater Lake until 5:30 A.M. The first ascent of the north face took 18 hours from the foot of the face, but Jole...

Prusik Peak, Lady Godiva Route. On May 28 and 29, Stephen Mitchell, Charles Sink, and I climbed Prusik Peak’s west face. The climb was done entirely clean with over forty chocks and involved about 40% aid. Begin climbing in cracks on the right-han...

FALL ON ROCK, OFF ROUTE, PROTECTION PULLEDAlberta, Kananaskis Country, Mount YamnuskaOn June 18, W and NB were climbing Grillmair’s Chimney (5.6, 8 pitches) on Mount Yamnuska. W was leading and went off-route. NB lowered W on a single piton, which...

Kangbachen, Second Ascent. The members of the fifth Yugoslavian Himalayan expedition were Jože Andlovic, Peter Soklic, Zoran Jerin, Rado Riedl, Zvone Andrejcic, Stane Belak, Danilo Cedilnik, Janez Dovžan, Janez Gradišar, Franc Jeromen, Marjan Manf...

P 4800, “Mount Kershaw, ” east of Vinson, and Mount Shinn, 1992. On December 14, 1992, Sundeep Dhillon and I set up Camp III at 4300 meters northeast of the summit of the Vinson Massif and ascended the previously unclimbed peak two kilometers due ...

North Sister, Early Morning Couloir. I made a solo ascent of this couloir. This fall the record lack of precipitation and lower temperature offered unusual possibilities. At 1:30 on December 20, I left the lower screes and progressed quickly up th...

Washington, Olympic Mountains (1)—On July 1, 1956 Roy Harniss (20), one of a party of five climbers from Bremerton, was standing on a steep snow slope on the Sawtooth Pinnacles, putting on his mittens. He lost his footing and before he could grab ...

Marcus Baker. A three-man Japanese party led by Koichi Okuda flew to the Matanuska Glacier on July 29, 1976 and placed Base Camp at 7500 feet on the glacier on the 31st. Their original objective, the north ridge was abandoned because of falling ic...

Sangay. Sebastian Snow and I were sent by the Weekend Telegraph to climb this 17,463-foot volcano in May. We were accompanied by Jorge Larrea, one of Ecuador’s most experienced climbers. It must be the world’s highest truly active volcano. While w...

Ultar Attempt. After acclimatizing by climbing the neighbor peak Bublimotin from the Hassanabad side, Geir Arne Bore, Jan Ivar BØe, Kim TophØj Olsen and I attempted Ultar, hoping to reach the south ridge via the east face. This was similar to the ...

Middle Cathedral Rock, Direct North Buttress. For several years Yvon Chouinard and I had looked at the true north buttress of Middle Cathedral Rock and wondered—if, who, when. What was climbed in 1954 and called the North Buttress route lay, actua...

The Lapps, by Björn Collinder. 252 pages, with frontispiece in color, 25 photographic plates, bibliography and index. New York: Princeton University Press for the American Scandinavian Foundation, 1949. Price, $3.75.The professor of Finno-Ugric la...

Shisha Pangma. The Chinese claim that they have made the first ascent of Shisha Pangma or Gosainthan (26,291 feet), the 14th highest mountain in the world and the last of the unclimbed 8000ers. They state that they had previously reconnoitered to ...

Cerro Stanhardt, Aguja Poincenot, Cuatro Dedos. Gran Gendarme de Pollone and Other Peaks in the Fitz Roy Area. The British South American Mountaineering Expedition started its eight month’s time with ascents in the Fitz Roy area. From that region ...