A Climber’s Tour from Klosters to Zermatt. To those who wish to visit some relatively little known sections of Switzerland, and who eschew the centrist’s approach to climbing, the following itinerary is offered as of possible interest. It is based on a trip made with William Harrover, of the Sierra Club, in the summer of 1948; and it includes both what was actually accomplished and what was only planned. We did reach Zermatt on foot from Klosters, but a combination of miserable weather and sundry weaknesses of the flesh made our trip in fact somewhat different from our trip in theory. What follows offers many possibilities of improvement or amendment according to one’s inclinations. May those blessed equally with sound limbs and good weather make the most of it!

1st day: Klosters to Silvrettahütte. A pleasant afternoon’s walk via Monbiel, Novai and the Sardasca Alp.1

2nd day: Silvrettahütte to Vereinahaus. The preferable route— but a long day—is up the Silvrettagletscher to the Silvrettajoch, and thence S. and W. over La Cudera and the Vadret dellas Maisas (which can also be reached more directly from the hut by the Verstanklator) to the Vernelasattel on the S. ridge of the Verstanklahorn. From here, a descent is made directly to the Vernelatal, at the distant mouth of which is the Vereinahaus. An easier way is to return from the Silvrettahütte to Novai and proceed thence up the carriage road to the Vereinahaus. This walk takes only an afternoon, leaving a morning for the Silvrettahorn or one of the other easy peaks at the head of the Silvrettagletscher.

3rd day: Vereinahaus to Grialetschhütte. No climbing, but a good day’s walk via the Süsertal, Flessjoch and Val Grialetsch.

4th day: Grialetschhütte to Keschhütte. For the energetic, the preferable route lies over the Vadret da Grialetsch to the depression between the Piz Grialetsch and the Piz Vadret (either of which can be climbed en passant), and thence down the Vadret da Vallorgia to the Alp Fontauna and up the Val Fontauna to the hut. An easier way—hardly more than a half-day—is via Dürrboden, the Scalettajoch (contouring around to the pass from the hut is not recommended) and a good path which forks to the right just beyond the pass and contours easily along the side of the Val Fontauna to the Keschhütte.

5th day: Keschhütte to Bergün. The ascent of the Piz Kesch (two or three hours from the hut and easy) is a "must" for the view, but Bergün can still be reached by the Val Tuors by noon.2 Bergün, an attractive little village, tempts one to linger. Also, it is a convenient point from which to detour for a visit to the Bernina, Morteratsch station being only two hours away by train. Those in a hurry, however, could well go on to the Aelahütte the same afternoon.

6th day: Bergün to Savognin, via the Aelahütte, the Pass d'Aela, the Val d'Err and Tinzen. An easy but enjoyable day through lovely country. Weather permitting, an extra day for some climbing on the Piz d’Aela, Tinzenhorn or Piz Michel would be rewarding. These three peaks constitute the westernmost geological outpost of the Dolomites and offer a wide variety of rock climbs.

7th day: Savognin to Splügen, via the Val Nandro, Schmorrasjoch, Ausser Ferrara and Rofflaschlucht. Another day of easy walking through typical high summer pasture country—a gentler and opener aspect of the Alps than is generally found in the Oberland or the Valais.

8th day: Splügen to Zapporthütte, via Hinterrhein. Although the route lies along the road to a point just beyond Hinterrhein, this walk is still worth while, for the path to the hut makes up in interest what the road lacks. The map’s contour lines fail to give a true impression of the spectacular gorge at the mouth of the Rhine, with the hut perched high above. Those wishing to avoid the road, by taking a direct route over the mountains from Ausser Ferrara to the hut, should note that to reach the hut from the S. side of the Rhine would not be easy and, in any event, would involve a long detour S. and W. around the gorge.

9th day: Zapporthütte to Olivone, via the Rheinwaldhorn. The traverse of the Rheinwaldhorn is an easy snow climb, but is rewarded with a fine view. The descent from the Rifugio Adula to Olivone is made preferably by the Val Carasina.

10th day: Olivone to All' Acqua, via Val Piora and Airolo. A long day’s walk, but quite feasible. One follows the Lukmanierpass road to a point a mile or so beyond Acquacalda, and then strikes across country (no trail) for the Pizzo Columbe, which is flanked by two passes, either of which one can use to gain the Val Piora. One can best reach Airolo from Lago Ritom by following the road to the head of the funicular and then making a straight line for the town across the mountainside, without attempting to follow a path. A dirt road leads up the Val Bedretto to All' Acqua. Airolo is the best point from which to make a detour to the sunny South: Locarno and Lugano are only about two hours away by train, and both offer perfect surroundings for a day or so of loafing.

11th day: All' Acqua to Binn. The better route is up the Griesgletscher and over the Blindenhorn and Hohsandhorn to the Binntal. Alternately, one can cross the Nufenenpass, at the head of the Val Bedretto, thence descend to Ulrichen, and follow the Rhone Valley to Ernen, where the postroad to Binn starts.

12th day: Binn to Simplon village, via the Saflischpass and Berisal. Locating the pass requires strict attention to the map; and the descent to the Simplon road should be made via Rosswald, and not by Im Stafel. The latter route, on the map, is ostensibly the more direct.

13th day: Simplon village to Saas Fee, via the Fletschhorn. Primitive accommodations can be had at the Rossbodenalp, 1500 ft. above the village, which is 8000 ft. below the summit of the Fletschhorn; and most climbers will probably conclude that the discomforts of the Rossbodenalp are outweighed by the gain in altitude. A pleasanter though somewhat longer route to the summit than the official one (via the N. E. ridge, the Breitlaub) is by the Griesserengletscher, Rossbodenjoch and Sengkuppe. The descent to Saas Fee is by way of the Weissmieshütte.

14th day: Saas Fee to Zermatt, as one pleases.

No allowance has been made for weather, weakness or wanderings from the straight and narrow path. We took 21 days, including detours to the Piz Bernina and to Lugano and several days of inactivity due to the weather. A margin of 50% in the time allotted for a climbing tour is safest, especially in the Alps, where the distractions are plentiful and tempting.

As is evident, this itinerary offers only the quieter satisfactions of the Alps. Those seeking the excitement of great climbs will not find them here. But ambling day after day through village, pasture and valley, and crossing pass and peak, can bring one close to the land and the people, and leave a more vivid impression of a way of life that is far removed from the normal routine of civilized living than can a stay at some great climbing center.

Donald W. Brown

1All geographical references are to the Topographischer Atlas der Schweiz, the sheets of which are the indispensable vade mecum of the perambulating traveller in the Swiss Alps.

2The itinerary to this point would make a perfect ski tour. Indeed, the country between Klosters and Bergün is probably more frequented in winter than in summer.