Accident Reports ANAM
Alaska, Wrangell Range

Alaska, Wrangell Range. On 10 May Katsuomi Aoke (24), Hyhozi Matsunaga (21), Hirokazu Yamazaki (30), Osamu Iwatake (24), Take- hisa Shiono (23), and Kiyoshige Seiryu (20), six climbers from the Tokyo University Alpine Club, Japan, were flown to th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Himachal Pradesh, Koa Rong Peaks

Koa Rong Peaks. Koa Rong 3 (6157 meters, 20,200 feet) was climbed by Indian women Bani Bose and Smirti Bhattacharjee and Sherpas Dawa and Pas- ang Thondup on July 25. The leader was Miss Lipika Ghosh. Japanese Shigemi Toyoda, Takamasa Tsukamoto, A...


Accident Reports ANAM
Colorado, The Dome, Near Boulder

Colorado, The Dome, Near Boulder. On 12 May Skip Bailey (22), and Michael Mertaugh (23), began a day of climbing with the expectation of trying a new route on the Dome. Because several teams of climbers were already at work on its face they decide...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock, Fall on Rock, British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Takakkaw Falls

FALLING ROCK, FALL ON ROCKBritish Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Takakkaw FallsOn July 8, 1988, a field test was being held for Association of Canadian Mountain Guides endorsement. The climb was on the route nearest the falls on the left side. One of ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India–Karakoram, Rimo III and Other Peaks in the Terong Basin, Eastern Karakoram

Rimo III and Other Peaks in the Terong Basin, Eastern Karakoram. Our Indo-British expedition was a joint venture between Bombay Mountaineers, Harish Kapadia, leader, Arun Samant, Muslim Contractor, Dhiren, Zerksis Boga and Dr. Meena Agrawal and Al...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Tetons, North Face of Disappointment Peak

North Face of Disappointment Peak. Two routes, one direct and the other on the western edge of the face, were pioneered by William Cropper and John Dietschy on August 4 and 15. The direct route on the previously unclimbed face involved a very diff...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Black Pyramid, Northeast Face

Black Pyramid, Northeast Face. Dave Davis and I did a new 5-pitch climb on this crag. Grade II, F6.Greg Markov


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Mount Kent, North Face in Winter, and Little Finger, Southeast Face

Mount Kent, North Face in Winter, and Little Finger, Southeast Face. On February 15, Dallas Kloke and I ascended the unclimbed 1200-foot north face of Mount Kent, southeast of McClellan Butte. Unroped cramponing up low-angle snow and ice led to a ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington—Cascades, Mixup, East Face

Mixup, East Face. On September 11 Larry Baum and I made a new route on this face, beginning up the second large chimney north of Gunsight Pass. This chimney, which might also be called a gully, runs in a north-northwesterly direction from its base...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Communication, Inadequate Belay – Belayer Not Ready Canada, Alberta, Canadian Rockies, Wicked Gravity Wall

On June 16, PH was sport climbing on the Wicked Gravity Wall at the Back of the Lake climbing area at Lake Louise, Banff National Park. He had done several routes and was climbing one last route to “cool down” before dark after a long afternoon an...

| Published 2009


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Cerro Don Bosco, Patagonia

Cerro Don Bosco, Patagonia. An eight-man expedition of the Centro Andino Buenos Aires spent 32 days at the northern end of the central range of the Patagonian Icecap, northeast of where Tilman was in 1956. They discovered two high peaks on the Chi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mount Noyes

Mount Noyes. In late July, Jack Cade, Hugh Johnston, Pierre LeMieux and I met much of Clan Gmoser at the height of land near the extreme head of Porcupine Creek in the Murchison Group. We had spent the previous five days in the headwaters area of ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Pamir Alai – Karavshin, Kara-su Valley, Kirkchilta, Northwest Face

Kara-su Valley, Kirkchilta, northwest face. PavlaPavlikova and I climbed a new line (1,000 Years of Russian Christianity, 4,507m) on the northwest face of Kirkchilta. The walls of Kotina, Kirkchilta, and Asan lie an hour and a half above base camp...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Komarova Glacier, Pic Babushka at Pt 4,850m ("Pic Sabor"), New Routes

Komarova Glacier, Pic Babushka and Pt 4,850m (“Pic Sabor”), new routes. As half of the Scottish Kizil Asker expedition, Blair Fyffe and I climbed two alpine style routes. The expedition visited the Kokshaal-Too region with the aim of climbing the ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Manaslu Attempt and Tragedy

Manaslu Attempt and Tragedy. Our expedition attempted to climb Manaslu by the northeast face, the first-ascent route. We were Albert Brugger, Gregor Demetz, Karl Grossrubatscher, Friedl and Hans Mutschlechner, Stephan Plangger, Christian Rier, Eri...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Kangbachen

Kangbachen. Our expedition was in the mountains from April 16 till May 31. Our members were Piotr Mlotecki, leader, Wojeciech Branski, Andrezej Gardas, Wieslaw Klaput, Marek Malatynski, Jósef Olszewski, Maciej Piatkowski, Dr. Andrezej Pietraszek, ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, Vinson Massif, 1992

Vinson Massif, 1992. Doug Scott and Sharu Prabhu organized a group that flew to Base Camp on the Branscomb Glacier in early December. After several days of ferrying food and gear to the col between Vinson and Shinn, the party spent a rest day befo...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington-Olympic Mountains, Church Peak, Southeast Face

Church Peak, Southeast Face. In the spring my husband Ken and I climbed the southeast face and then for two leads up the exposed summit ridge. This new route is class four.Terry Anderson Pearce


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Ledge Breaks Beneath Climber's Feet, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs Peak

FALL ON ROCK, LEDGE BREAKS BENEATH CLIMBER’S FEET Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn Sunday August 28, Keith Brett (29) fell from the North Chimney while simul-climbing with his partner Matt. Their intention was to climb Perverti...


Accident Reports ANAM
Washington, Mt. Rainier National Park (2)

Washington, Mt. Rainier National Park (2)—On August 10, 1956 Sam C. Silverstein (19) fell while descending the snow chute along Gibralter as he returned from the summit. He apparently tripped on his crampon, rolled about 100 feet, and was stopped ...