Mount McGinnis, Southeast Ridge. In October, 1995, on our way in to attempt the southeast ridge of McGinnis Peak, Rick Studley plucked me out of the Delta River three times. As we walked up toward the peak memories of my last climb on McGinnis flo...
Autumn fatalities. Ayumi Nozawai was one of seven climbers who died this autumn. He was part of a three-man Japanese expedition attempting the west ridge of 7,140m Nemjung. On October 2 the party had reached ca 6,000m, not quite at the start of th...
Lenak and Giabul Valleys, exploration. In 2009 our group explored the Reru Valley, taking photographs of virgin peaks and producing a sketch map (AAJ 2010). We presumed there were other hidden valleys in this region, where no mountaineers had expl...
The Northeast Rib of Kwangde CentralAlan KearneyI THOUGHT THAT LIVING IN Kathmandu would offer greater climbing opportunities than my home in Bellingham, Washington. When Bellinghamsters aren’t watching the slug races, they manage to pull off an o...
Cerro Torre, Lost Times, Attempt. It was reported that a Spanish team that included Pepe Chevarri ascended the 1994 Marsigny-Parkin line, Lost Times, that ascends an ice couloir from the Torre Glacier to the Col of Hope, but were unable to continu...
Mountain Paintings. Visitors to Washington may be interested in the following. At the National Museum, grouped inside the entrance, are two large paintings of the “Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone,” one by Thomas Moran (1837-1926), the other by Luc...
Lighthouse Tower, Free Ascent. On October 24, Bill Wright, George Bell, John Prater and Ken Leiden made the first recorded free ascent of the Northeast Face on Lighthouse Tower (III 5.9S). The crux was a crumbly offwidth crack; oversize friends ar...
A.A.C., Cascade Section. Several members were very active on climbing trips to Pakistan. Scott Fischer succeeded in reaching the summit of K2 along with Seattleite Ed Viesturs. Steve Swenson led an expedition attempt on Gasherbrum IV. Greg Child c...
Fatal Avalanche at Lake Louise. On March 26th, 1945, about five o’clock in the afternoon, nine skiers from the East, including Hermann Gadner, formerly of Obergürgl, Austria, and more recently ski instructor at St. Jovite, Quebec, were skiing on t...
Tombstone Mountains, Yukon Territory. In August Gary Arce, Steve Will and I spent two weeks in the Tombstone Range. As previously reported, the rock was bad, but the weather was worse. It rained every day. Still, we climbed Tombstone Mountain via ...
Salathé, one-day free ascents. In December 2001 I was in a hospital bed after severing my left index finger in a home-remodeling accident. The digit had been reattached but wasn’t looking good. There were stitches and pins protruding through the s...
FALL ON ROCKWisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkOn May 10, 1980, Allen B. Hamilton (59), a man considered to be a skilled climber and a member of the Chicago Mountaineering Club, fell about 78 feet to his death from the east bluff. From the reports ...
Pute Towers, Various Ascents. It was reported that Tom Goodwin and Pete Scott (N.Z.), Johan Gouws (South Africa) and Sam Stacey and Peter Thompson (U.K.) made the first ascent of the Third Tower (5800 m) via a long east-facing gully above the Yain...
Long’s Peak, Hidden Diamond and Glenwood Springs Canyon. Robert Anderson and I discovered the previously unnoticed Hidden Diamond on the Diamond in August. We climbed the route in 1 ¼ days, using about 80 feet of aid. Two weeks later I returned wi...
On June 4 Steve Lyall and I left the 14,000' camp on the West Buttress of Denali and descended to the lower Peters Glacier via the north side of Motorcycle Hill. Seven V-threads later we landed on the Peters Glacier with the intent of climbing one...
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING UNROPEDCalifornia, Kearsarge PinnaclesIn mid-July 1982, Walt Stephey (23) broke his hip in a 300-meter fall from the top of Kearsarge Pinnacles. He had been ice climbing at the 3650-meter level above Onion Valley and had reac...
Huascarán Norte, North Face. Danilo Tic, Marjan Freser and I first made four acclimatization climbs. We wanted to climb Huascarán’s south face, but alternate snow and rain forced us to change our plans. We started for an unclimbed route on the nor...
STRANDED, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Rock Face near Cascade WaterfieldOn August 19, 1984, three scramblers decided to explore and climb the rock face on the right-hand side of the Cascade Waterfall in BanffNational Park. This waterfall ...
ANKLE INJURY AND HAPEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressThis summary is comprised of two separate incidents that ended up as one continuous effort using many shared resources and with multiple overlapping responsibilities.On May 26 Lee Jung Park...
Payu, South Face. A. Enzio, Giovanni Calcagno, M. Pellizzaro and Tullio Vidone climbed a very difficult new route on the south side of Payu in August. The first part was on granite and the second part mixed rock and ice.Renato Moro, Club Alpino It...