STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, EXCEEDING ABILITY, BAD WEATHER, EXPOSURE California, Five Open BooksThomas Kornesczuk (15) and Terry Orman (14) were climbing in T-shirts and jeans on Five Open Books late in the afternoon on November 23. The weathe...
K2, Abruzzi Ridge. It was reported that Ronald Naar (Netherlands) led the first Dutch expedition to K2. Their attempt was successful, and involved around 3000 meters of fixed rope. Summitters were Ronald Naar, Hans Van Gerd Mulen, Rajab Shah (Paki...
Mount Everest. An Indian expedition under the leadership of Major John D. Dias nearly climbed Mount Everest at the end of May. They were driven back only 400 feet from the summit by frightful weather. In a letter to the editor, Hari Dang thus desc...
Manless Climbing. An otherwise ordinary season in the Tetons was enlivened by the success of two new manless climbs of the Grand Teton. On August 3 Sue Swedlund and Irene Ortenburger climbed the Underhill Ridge, Buckingham variation, for the third...
Trisul. The third ascent of Trisul (23,260 ft.) was made by R. D. Greenwood and Gurdial Singh of Dehra Dun on 25 June 1951. Greenwood, who is an instructor at the National Defence Academy, later climbed Ratanban (20,000 ft.) and also reached a poi...
Southern Picket Range, Complete Enchainment. In July this long-standing east-to-west challenge was completed by Mark Bunker, Colin Haley, and Wayne Wallace. All 14 major summits in the southern Pickets were climbed during the four-day traverse, se...
FAILURE AND LOSS OF CRAMPON, FALL ON ICEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade MountainOn December 25, 1981, a Calgary man (24) was practicing ice climbing on the lower pitches of a Cascade waterfall. One of his crampons came off, he lost his balance a...
FALL ON ICE, PROTECTION PULLED OUT—ICE TOOLAlberta, Banff National Park, Professor Falls,On March 10 at 1130, T.M. was leading the last pitch of Professor Falls (III WI4). She was having some difficulty placing a screw due to the brittle nature of...
Climbs in the Northern Rockies Near Redfern Lake, B. C. Two weeks of excellent weather contributed to the success of an expedition to the hitherto unvisited mountains in the vicinity of Redfern Lake. Members of the expedition were Robert West (lea...
Makalu II or Kangchungtse, 1979. On page 605 of A.A.J., 1980 we gave a report on this ascent but did not have the names of the climbers who reached the summit. These have been kindly given by Dr. Gerhard Lenser, the expedition leader. The ascents ...
La Esfinge, East Face, Papas Relleñas. Cedric Cruaud, Gired Devernay, Benoit Peyronnard and Pierre Plaze made the first ascent of the route Papas Relleñas (ED 6c+ A3, 600m) on the east face of La Esfinge (5325m) from July 20-25. The route appears ...
Mount McKinley, Attempt on South Buttress. Our expedition was made up of John Link, Filip Sokol, James Sharp, A1 Gunter, Francis Raley, Nels Niemi and me. We landed in early May on the Kahiltna Glacier, walked and packed loads in eight days to the...
Jannu Attempt. A Czechoslovak expedition led by Ivan Galfy unsuccessfully attempted a new route on Jannu, the west ridge. They gave up the attempt on May 24. Details are lacking.
Articles Resulting from the American Medical Research Expedition to Everest. Only two scientific articles have so far (February 1983) been published. They are:West, J.B. “Man at Extreme Altitude.” Journal of Applied Physiology, 52: 1393-1399, 1982...
Mount Newton, 1983. In A.A.J., 1984 on page 186 it incorrectly stated that Mount Newton was unsuccessfully attempted. Croats from the University of Zagreb in Yugoslavia climbed Mount Newton on July 5, 1983 via its north ridge. Leader Jerko Kirgin,...
Mt. Asgard, east face of South Tower. In July I soloed a new route on the 2,000' east face of the South Tower of Mount Asgard on Baffin Island. My route (VI 5.10 A2) consisted of mostly free climbing with an equal mixture of well-protected crack a...
Mt. Owen. 1940, E. Cromwell, Miss G. Engelhard. Probably the first ascent via N. ridge and traverse. From Lake O’Hara via trail over McArthur Pass into valley of McArthur Creek to old campsite at 5000 ft.; 2 h. Thence up E. face (grass slopes, gul...
Huayna Ausangate, Kiru II and Payachata, Colque Cruz Group, 1985. Our expedition consisting of Bruno Anselmi, Italo Bazzani, Graziano Lampa, Livio Lanari, Dr. Giulio Zagaglia and me as leader climbed on the northern side of the Colque Cruz group. ...
Terrace Tower, Brent's Hammer. On Terrace Tower in the Cirque of the Unclimbables in July, A. Mawson, D.Lavigne, and J. Lavigne established a steep route on the southeast face. Their route, Brent s Hammer (200m, 5.11+), climbs mostly hand cracks a...
Jabel Dalfa and Jabal Haddad Massifs, West Central Arabia, 1989. On January 12, 1989, I made the first ascent of a prominent granitic pinnacle which rises abruptly from the surrounding flat, sandy desert, two miles west of the main mass of the Jab...