American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Huacshash, Southern Cordillera Huayhuash

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1976

Huacshash, Southern Cordillera Huayhuash. After our Bolivian climbs (see that section), we went through Cajatambo and ascended the Quebrada Ularagra to establish Base Camp a mile northeast of Huacshash at 16,400 feet on the slopes of P 5295 (17,372 feet; “Cerro Amistad”). On April 6 Jaskula, Lisiecki, my wife and I made a new route on the latter, the great chimney in the northeast ridge. On April 10 Wawrzyniak, Gutowski and Zimny made another new route on the peak, the west buttress. On April 8 Wawrzyniak, my wife and I made the second ascent of P 52651 (17,273 feet; 1 mile north-northeast of Huacshash) by its northeast ridge; this climb was repeated on April 13 by Chrzan and Lisiecki and on April 14 by Zimny and Jaskula. On April 9 Wawrzyniak, my wife and I made the second ascent of Copan1 (18,061 feet) by its southwest ridge, a climb repeated on April 14 by Jaskula and Zimny. On April 8 to 10 Chrzan, Jaskula made the second ascent of Huacshash (18,517 feet) by a new route, the northwest ridge. On April 11 and 12 Wawrzyniak, my wife and I, followed by Zimny and Gutowski, made another new route, the center of the southwest glacier. On April 13 and 14 Chrzan, Lisiecki, Wawrzyniak, my wife and I made the second ascent of P 5495 (18,028 feet; northeast of P 5265) by its southwest ridge. We suffered from bad conditions as we were there in the rainy season.

Mariusz Grebieniow, Akademicka Wyprawa Górska, Poland

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