Big Four Mountain, Central Summit Direct. A long, though moderate, route on snow and ice. The route follows the narrow couloir that splits a buttress originating directly from the center peak of the five summits evident on the mountain. An icefall...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO TEST HOLDSAlberta, Kananaskis Country, Mount John Laurie (Mount Yamnuska)On September 8, a climber who had been bolting stations on an unnamed route on Mount Yamnuska fell approximately 40 feet, fracturing his ankle. He fe...
Bhagirathi II North Face, Ascent and Tragedy, 1981. In the autumn of 1981, Dawson Stelfox, Tommy Maguire and I visited the Gangotri region. From the usual Base Camp beside the Gangotri Glacier, we made exploratory trips to study the west faces of ...
Warriors of the Wasteland, Second Ascent. Warriors was a communal effort that spanned over 20 years, with over 10 people involved in the ascent. At IV 5.12c it was first completed and free climbed continuously by Matt Maddaloni and Ben DeMenech in...
The Armchair Mountaineer, edited by George Alan and Carol D. Smith. New York: Pitman Publishing Corp., 1968. 361 pages, 20 colored illustrations, 9 cartoons, numerous drawings by Debra Healy. Price: $15.00.This is a delightful and well-put-togethe...
Mount Russell, West Face. While looking at slides taken on a flight over the Sierra Nevada, Galen Rowell was electrified by a striking face on 14,086-foot Mount Russell, one of the finest peaks in the range. On reaching the peak many months later,...
Luracatao. The volcanic peak of Luracatao (5850 meters, 19,193 feet) was climbed on August 19 by Luis Aguilar and Cristián Vitry, of the Club Amigos de la Montaña, Salta, Argentina. The peak is located about 42 miles almost due west of the summer ...
Colorado College Mountain Club. This year the club hosted Mountaineers Weekend, gathering many western mountaineers for three days of climbing and antics at Turkey Rock. The club’s usual activities of rock schools and snow and ice schools have bee...
KESLER L. TETER1933-1978Kes Teter, my friend and oft-times climbing buddy, is still climbing. An astonishing statement? Not really. For those who were fortunate enough to know Kes and to have climbed with this irrepressible dynamo, he will always ...
UIAA International Camp, Various Ascents. On September 7, all 23 members of the Third UIAA International Mountaineering Camp from ten different countries arrived in Chengdu in the province of Sichuan in China after a long journey via Beijing, Hong...
Kangchenjunga. Our expedition climbed Kangchenjunga by the southwest face, the normal route. We left Kathmandu on August 22 and got to Ramze, the last camp before the glacier, in 12 days. There, we lost our fifth Sherpa, Lhakpa Nuru, who mysteriou...
Cordillera Huallanca. A second Italian expedition from Macerata climbed in the southern part of the Cordillera Huallanca. They climbed three peaks of 5115, 5000 and 5170 meters (16,781, 16,404 and 16,962 feet). Unfortunately they have not used the...
Charakusa Area, Fathi Brakk, Parhat Brakk and Beatrice, Ascents. Jimmy Chin, Evan Howe, Brady Robinson and Doug and Jed Workman, guided by Ibrahim Zahid of Hushe, base-camped in the Charakusa (Tsa’racksa) Valley. The team climbed three significant...
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. Last fall the D.M.C. sponsored a six-week course in rock climbing. Most of the participants were members of the Club or candidates for membership, but instruction was offered to any student who wished to satisfy the ...
Central Hindu Kush. There was considerable climbing activity in the central Hindu Kush of Afghanistan in 1969. I have been able to find out the following up to this time. The French had for the first time some climbing successes there; M. Gravost ...
Pumori. Several expeditions successfully climbed Pumori in the postmonsoon season. Spaniards led by José Javier Quinones placed Miguel Angel Serrano and Pedro Pablo González on the summit on October 7. Japanese leader Mitsuo Nomura and Takehiko Ya...
Makalu, West Ridge. On February 16 the French expedition to the west ridge of Makalu headed for Nepal. It was composed of Lucien Bérardini, François Guillot, Robert Jacob, Claude Jager, Bernard Mellet, Jean-Claude Mosca, Jean-Paul Paris, Georges P...
El Gran Trono Blanco, Cañón del Tajo, Sierra de Juárez, Baja California, 1988-90. Dan Curley and I established two new routes on the south face of El Trono Blanco. La Joya (IV, 5.11+) was completed in November, 1988. Ten pitches of face climbing w...
FALL ON ROCK-DISLOCATED KNEE, FALL ON SNOW-UNABLE TO SELFARREST, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INABILITY TO CONTINUE DUE TO INJURIES, TRYING TO PLEASE OTHERS, INADEQUATE COMMUNICATIONWashington, North Cascades, Mt. Baker, Spider/Formidable CouloirMarty, Da...
P6166 on the Arwa-Sweta Divide. A four-member ladies’ team from Calcutta, Munmun Chatterjee, Dola Sirkar, Mousumi Ghosh and Amita Bhattarcharjee, set up Base Camp at Nandanban at 14,500 feet on May 14. They set up six higher camps: Visukital, Sund...