Robert C. Hind 1911–2000Michelle Potkin 1956–2000Adam Kloff 1972–2000Brian Reagan 1972–2000John Jackson 1976–2000
FALL ON ROCK – OVERCONFIDENCE ON FOURTH-CLASS TERRAINWashington, North Cascades, Washington PassThe plan of the day (August 13) was to do a bunch of routes on the Early Winter Spires from 5.6 to 5.9. We were on the ascent/descent gully trail to th...
DEAN PEABODY, JR.1888-1951The sudden passing of Dean Peabody at the premature age of 63 leaves a very real void in the lives of all who were in any way associated with him. Although he had been a member of this club since 1929, and had served in t...
Front Range Bouldering. Bob Horan. Chockstone Press, Denver, 1989. 196 pages, numerous maps, diagrams and black and white photos. $11.95.Most good climbers are good boulderers, but there are a few exceptions. Tobin Sorenson, the best climber of th...
EQUIPMENTIce Screws. The first successful use of the newly developed ice screw was made by Gary Rose and Dick McGowan on the second ascent of the Nisqually Icefall this summer. The party reported that their use was highly advantageous on a 200-foo...
Spear Spire, Northeast Face, and East Peak, East Ridge, Vowell Group, Purcells. On July 7 James Hebert, Robert Kruszyna and I made the first ascent of the northeast face of Spear Spire, climbing a couloir which runs diagonally from the summit down...
Desert ClimbingEric BjørnstadIN 1986 THERE was a surge of climbing on the southwest desert that exceeded any year since the initiation of technical desert ascents with the climbing of Shiprock in 1939. Several dozen first ascents and new routes we...
The Fall. Simon Mawer. Boston: Little Brown, 2003. 370 pages. $24.95The Fall is the first novel with a climbing background by a respected talent since James Salter’s Solo Faces 20 years ago: long enough to suggest that the climbing novel is an end...
Spice FactoryAn Alaskan debut ends with a major new route on Mt. Bradley.Maxime TurgeonEveryone spices differently. Some carefully measure quantities, make sure aromas will match, and never make a mistake, while others just pour it on and see what...
Nevado del Güican (or Cocuy), Cordillera Oriental. Greg Beliveau and I made two ascents from the Concavito valley. On February 25 we made the first ascent of Gorro Blanco (16,558 feet) and on the 27th, Nevado del Chiflón (16,568 feet) by a new rou...
Hwang Gi-yong, Shin Dong-seok, and I started climbing a new line on the left side of the north face at 1 a.m. on December 13 [the prominent spur immediately left of the 2008 Polish route, Independence Day. See AAJ 2009]. We had hoped to find the w...
On the Edge of Europe: Mountaineering in the Caucasus. Audrey Salkeld and José Luis Bermúdez. Hodder and Stoughton, London, 1993. 260 pages, 20 black-and-white photographs, 4 maps. £18.99.In theory, the would-be adventurer to little known mountain...
The Pioneer Photographer, by William II. Jackson, Yonkers, World Book Co., 1929. $1.40.The author, the well-known photographer of the Hayden Survey in the Seventies, here gives us a different side of the picture from that published in the official...
Colorado, Crestone Needle—With the intention of doing winter mountaineering in the Crestones, Leif Patterson (25), Eliot Goss (24), and David Isles (24) met Stuart Krebs (25) at Westcliffe, Colorado on Saturday evening, January 30. Sunday they pac...
Logan Mountains. During July and August of 1967, Lew Surdam and I climbed in the previously unvisited northwestern sector of the Logan Mountains. We flew to the area by helicopter and established our first camp in a spacious boulder cave in a broa...
Huascarán’s East Face — Camino del EnfermoGEOFF WAYATT, New Zealand Alpine ClubTHE wind blew and shook the Camp IV tents around two A.M. At three A.M. Paul yelled to awaken me and I started brewing hot cocoa and the prior evening’s left-overs of c...
New Hampshire, Mount Washington, Huntington Ravine. On March 17 Christopher MacRae (24) and Don Jensen (18) were involved in an avalanche in Damnation Gully. The background: a rope of two (from the Harvard Mountaineering Club) climbed North Gulley...
“Irish Peaks” of the Starbird Ridge, Taurus Group, Purcells. On July 2 Bruce and Sue Magnuson, my wife Gretchen, our one year-old daughter Kara, and I began our packing up “Irish Creek”, which crosses the Forster Creek road around mile 21½. From a...
SERAC FALLAlaska, Mount Johnson, Ruth GorgeOn May 15, Seth Shaw (38) and Tim Wagner (34) checked into the Talkeetna Ranger Station and filled out a backcountry permit to climb Mount Johnson. They were flown into the Ruth Glacier, Denali National P...
Mount Everest, Austrian Expedition. Our expedition consisted of Dr. Oswald Ölz, Dr. Raimund Margreiter, Peter Habeler, Franz Oppurg, Helmut Hagner, Reinhold Messner, Hanns Schell, Robert Schauer, Horst Bergmann, Josl Knoll, the German Reinhard Kar...