1957 Advance of Muldrow Glacier. Muldrow Glacier on the north flank of Mount McKinley in the Alaska Range advanced vigorously in 1957. The lower 20 miles of the 35-mile long glacier had been wasting downward for the last 100 years. In January 1957...
Sometimes you meet someone who easily shares your dreams. On first meeting Colin Haley I could see that he was an open minded, highly motivated climber not easily distracted by mere obstacles. He was keen to explore all the possibilities within si...
Alaska, Kenai Range, Mt. Alice. (See accident report) As Hitt disappeared from sight, Hoeman and Johnston told the other two less experienced climbers to wait on the ridge while they followed the path of the small avalanche caused by Hitt’s fall. ...
FATIGUE—FALL ON ICE, INEXPERIENCEColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Main FallsOn December 8 about 1000, Aaron Shupp (22) fell 20 to 30 feet while leading the Main Falls Route (I WI4) at Hidden Falls. Shupp said that he was about 10 feet beyon...
Wisconsin, Bascom Hall (University of Wisconsin). On 26 June at 1:30 a.m., Charles Cary (20) began climbing Bascom Hall, the administration building of the University of Wisconsin. His companion, Delbert Marshall (19) remained on the ground. Both ...
Huayna Potosí, West Face. The increasingly popular 1000-meter West Face of Huayna Potosí (6088m) had very few ascents this year due to poor conditions. Spaniard Pere Vilarasau and Andorran Frank Van Herreweghe climbed the American Route (later nam...
Mt. Winstone, Passport Couloir. Forrest Murphy, Don Serl, and I climbed the Passport Couloir (TD-) on Mt. Winstone in the Tchaikazan Valley, British Columbia (www.bivouac.com/ArxPg.asp?ArxId=1247) over a long weekend in September. Climbed on the 2...
Fairweather, Eliza and Other Ascents and Traverse from Mouth of Alsek River to Davidson Glacier and Chilkat Inlet. Our trip members were Betsy Fletcher, Craig Hollinger, Markus Kellerhals, Peter Stone and I as leader. After placing food caches by ...
MOUNT DICKEY has one of the largest and steepest rock faces in the Alaska Range and no doubt this was the reason why Tomas Gross picked it. The only previous route on the face was climbed by Rowell, Roberts, and Ward on the buttress to the left ...
After two weeks rock climbing and road tripping with my wife, I arrived home to a phone call from Chad Kellogg: “Dude, when are we going to the Bugs! We have two weeks before leaving for China and we have to get in a training climb.” I checked t...
Mount Index, North Peak, Supercouloir. On February 8, Jim Nelson and I hiked from Lake Serene through a 1360-foot pass to Anderson Creek. Within two hours we were at the base of the west face of the north peak of Index. A couloir, visible from the...
Roraima, Cutting the Line. Our expedition to the Pakaraima Mountains in the southwestern corner of Guyana had two objectives: to establish a new route on the east face of Mt. Roraima; and to set up solar power in the village of Wayalayeng, a small...
TABLE III1951-831959-8319841984USACAN.USACAN.TerrainRock 194225013614Snow 1296219367Ice 893574River 11310Unknown 12620Ascent or DescentAscent 16422621267Descent 12961745212Unknown 2163447Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock 1186125984Slip on snow o...
Big Four, North Headwall. In 1973 Ron Miller and Ben Guydelkon climbed this route. NCCS III, F8.
LAWRENCE GEORGE COVENEY 1898-1981Lawrence was a man of many interests. In addition to a successful business career and a lifelong love of music and literature, he was an enthusiastic outdoors man and mountaineer. His death on July 27, 1981 after a...
Svobodnaya Korea (Free Korea Peak), North Face, New Route. From February 21-26, a Krasnoyarsk team led by Valery Balezin, and comprising Vladimir Alexandrov, Andrew Zakrepa, Yuri Stepanov, Alexander Terentiev, and Sergey Cherezov, established a ne...
In ALASKA THERE are many challenges. Climbers bored with the mountains of the lower 48 states leave to check out the noise they hear rumbling down from the north. Most return, and countless magazines and books emerge from countless coffee shops ...
LOSS OF CONTROL–VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, IMPROPER USE OF CRAMPONSWashington, Mount Rainier, Inter GlacierOn July 15 at 1348, the communication center notified Camp Schurman that a climber had broken his leg near the bottom of the Inter Glacier. Climbin...
University PeakThe wild card of the Wrangell-St. Elias by Carlos BuhlerMy eyes traced our complicated route through the last problematic crevasses. Suddenly, the peaceful silence on the glacier was interrupted by the distant whine of an approachin...
Nepal Himalaya. Shiro Shirahata. Yama-Kei Publishers, Tokyo, 1983. In the United States, Heian International, P.O. Box 2402, South San Francisco. 232 pages. 115 full-page color plates (10" x 14½") with commentary on each, map showing geographic po...