Cordón de Portillo. Climbers from the club Andinista Mendoza made a number of first ascents in this range, which also lies southeast of Aconcagua. These were Gemelo Norte, 17,700 feet, January 13, 1956, and Torre del Campanario, 17,050 feet, Janua...
First Koksil Glacier, Peaks 5,636m, 5,609m, and 5,626m. From August 8 to 19 Frank Gasser, from Italy, and Katarzyna Karwecka-Wielicka, Krzysztof Wielicki, and I, from Poland, explored the Koksil (Kuksel or Kuksil) Valley.The first expedition here ...
The Kangshung Face of EverestGeoffrey C. TabinThe 1981 AMERICAN Mount Everest Expedition to China made the first climbing attempt on the vast east face, the Kangshung Face, of Chomolungma. We succeeded in convincing ourselves that the face can and...
Yosemite and the Sierra Nevada. Photographs by Ansel Adams, and selections from the works of John Muir, edited by Charlotte E. Mauk. Boston: Houghton Mifflin Company, 1948. 132 pages, 64 plates. Price, $6.50.John Muir will doubtless remain, for an...
JOHN L. J. (JERRY) HART 1904-1986John Lathrop Jerome (Jerry) Hart, President of the American Alpine Club from 1970 until 1973, died April 27, 1986 at his home in Laguna Niguel, California at the age of 81. He is survived by his wife Jane, his thre...
Trango Tower (6,251m), south pillar, Eternal Flame—Pou Brothers Variant. After arriving in base camp on July 11, mountain journalist Jabi Baraiazarra, my brother Iker, and I spent the next few weeks climbing Eternal Flame. In generally bad weather...
White Fury (Record à l’Himalaya), by Ramond Lambert and Claude Kogan. Translated from the French by Showell Styles. Foreword by Maurice Herzog. Appendices by Albert Zimmermann and Dr. Franz Lochmatter. London: Hurst and Blackett, 1956. 175 pages; ...
Escudo, East Face, Paine Group. In early December, 1994, Brad Jarrett, Christian Santelices and I arrived at the Japanese Camp, high in the Río Ascensio valley. From that base, we made carries up the two-hour approach to the foot of the east wall ...
The Kinetic Theory of the Origin of Mountain-Making ForcesJoel E. FisherHARDLY a climber who has not sometimes wondered how mountain ranges came to be uplifted. An appreciation of their vast bulk—running far beyond trillions of tons of rock, and o...
A Climber’s Tour from Klosters to Zermatt. To those who wish to visit some relatively little known sections of Switzerland, and who eschew the centrist’s approach to climbing, the following itinerary is offered as of possible interest. It is based...
Climbs from the Fay HutJoel E. FisherTHE recently erected Fay Hut of the Alpine Club of Canada is situated behind the peaks that wall in Moraine Lake, in the Lake Louise district of the Canadian Rockies. Its accessibility as a climbing center attr...
HesperusStephen Spalding, Mountaineering Club of AlaskaMOUNT HESPERUS shone bold and beautiful in the 1983 Alaska Mountaineering and Hiking Calendar, beckoning me to its slopes. We began talking about attempting it after coming off Denali in June ...
Above the Clouds: The Diaries of a High Altitude Mountaineer. Anatoli Boukreev. Collected and edited by Linda Wylie. New York: St. Martin's Press, 2001. 290 pages, 26 pages of color photographs. $27.95.When the American Alpine Club received the fi...
Sacred Mountains of the World. Edwin Bembaum. Sierra Club Books, San Francisco, 1990. 291 pages, 1 map, 121 color illustrations, 8 black-and-white illustrations. $50.00.George Mallory’s simple answer, “Because it is there,” is both the most famous...
FALL/SLIP ON ROCK AND PLACED NO PROTECTION—Wyoming, The Tetons, Symmetry Spire. Charles Loucks (44) William Thomas, SallyWestmacott and Mike Westmacott were climbing the Jensen Ridge on Symmetry Spire on August 27. This 1200-foot ridge consists of...
FALL ON ROCK—BLOCK OF ROCK CAME OFF, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, ROPE SHEATH CUT, NO HARD HATMaryland, Delaware Water Cap, Mount TammanyOn March 12, before noon, Ralph Chang (36), Bruce Pollock, and Randall Fairman began lead climbing on Mount Tammany....
The Eastern Pillar of Torre EggerElio Orlandi, Club Alpino ItalianoHAVING REACHED Fitz Roy National Park on October 15, Maurizio Giarolli and I immediately headed for the triad of the Cerro Torre group: Cerro Torre, Torre Egger and Torre Standhard...
Mount Chown and P 9600. The peaks northwest of Mount Robson more than a day distant from the Berg Lake Trail are seldom visited these days, but a passable trail continues north along the Smoky River, portions of which are well built and maintained...
Montana, Delmo Lake, Granite Batholith—On May 17, Gary D. Alexander (21), Force F. Bany, Jr. (19), John Sikkar (25), and Gary Harper (18), were planning to do some practice climbs. Alexander and Bany were attempting to climb a face about 200 feet ...
FALL ON ROCK, OFF ROUTECalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn May 30, at 10:30 a.m., Laurel Munson came into the valley ranger station to report that a climber had fallen from Sentinel Rock. Laurel said that she heard falling rocks and yelling, saw a man f...