Beyond the Mountain. Elizabeth Arthur. Harper & Row, New York, 1983. 211 pages. $12.95.Elizabeth Arthur’s first novel has some big ambitions. Its structure is intricate, its heroine complicated and its aim lofty: to show, in the context of a H...
In 2009 I climbed new routes in Lofoten (see AAJ 2010) and promised to return to Norway the following year. We did, but unfortunately this time we experienced really bad weather, with long periods of rain. Even when the weather improved for a coup...
FALLING ROCK Washington, Mount RainierA climb of Little Tahoma (3368 meters) was organized by the Seattle Mountaineers as part of their basic climbing course. The party of five left the trailhead at 0815 on August 22, 1988.The party reached the to...
Konsaisu Gaikoku Sanmei Jiten (A Concise Dictionary of Names of Foreign Mountains). Ichiro Yoshizawa. SanseidoPublishing Co., Tokyo, 1984. 613 pages, 55 sketch maps and line drawings, Hardbound.Wholly in Japanese characters, this dictionary survey...
On July 22 a team from the UK, including a US citizen now working in Scotland, set off for Kyrgyzstan. The team consisted of Ian Arnold, Ken Findlay, Paul Hudson, Paul Lyons, Will Parsons (all UK), Susan Jensen (USA) and Shaun the Sheep. Shaun was...
A History of British Mountaineering, by R. L. G. Irving. 240 pages, with 65 illustrations. London: B. T. Batsford, Ltd., 1955. Price, 25 s.There are few places in the world where British have not climbed, and this is becoming true of other nationa...
The Last of the BugaboosLloyd AndersonALL the main summits in the Bugaboo Group of peaks of the Purcell Range in British Columbia had been climbed but one, the South Tower of Howser Spire. The formidable bergschrund on the N. E. face had never bee...
Harvard Mountaineering Club. Last summer being an interim season between the biennial climbing camps of the Harvard Mountaineering Club, climbing by members was carried out independently. Nevertheless, activity was by no means diminished. In Europ...
Kangchenjunga from the NorthDouglas K. Scott, Alpine Climbing GroupFOR MOST OF THE YEAR THE world’s third highest peak, 28,208-foot Kangchenjunga, is hammered by the fierce, westerly-moving air currents which make climbing on the upper reaches of ...
The High Life: A History of High-Altitude Physiology and Medicine. John B. West. Oxford University Press: London, 1998. $79.50.In 1979, when I was in my pulmonary fellowship at the University of Washington, John West invited me to be a climber-sci...
Climbing Days, by Dorothy Pilley (Mrs. I. A. Richards). 340 pages, 69 illustrations, and index. London: G. Bell and Sons, Ltd., 1935. Price 16s.Mrs. Richards says she started writing this book in China, far from her beloved Alps and homesick for t...
Kampire Dior group, Pk. 6,928m, previously unreported attempt. Pk. 6,928m lies on the main east-west watershed separating the Yashkuk and Batura glacier basins, about 5km to the east of the major summit in this region, Kampire Dior (7,143m). The n...
Devil's Thumb and Burkett Needle. On March 15, Gardner Heaton and I were flown onto the Baird Glacier beneath the south faces of Mount Burkett and Burkett Needle. On the 19th we skied the seven miles around to the base of the East Ridge of Devil's...
PROTECTION PULLED OUT, FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY,OFF ROUTECalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn August 6, 1992, Jamie Serrano (25) and Angel Vedo Fernandez (39)—both from Spain, were climbing the Nose route of El Capitan, and were at a lo...
SOLO ascents have been an accepted part of European mountaineering for some time. The solo climbs of Herman Buhl and Walter Bonatti are a small but significant part of modern climbing literature. But until Royal Robbins soloed El Capitan’s Muir Wa...
Baltoro Cathedral. The Belledo section of the Italian Alpine Club climbed two routes on the Baltoro Cathedral, the southwest ridge with camps and the southeast face alpine-style. Members were Giulio Fiocchi, leader, Dr. Alberto Sironi, Giuseppe La...
Toro Peak, southeast face; Castle Peak, south ridge. It wasn’t until the second half of September that Elena Dmitrenko, George Kozlov, and I arrived in India, too late in the year. We came with no set plans. At first we didn’t even know where to g...
North Paine Tower, Patagonia. During January, 1960, an expedition of the Centro Andino Buenos Aires climbed in the Paine group, hoping to ascend the Paine Towers, which had attracted their attention during last year’s expedition to the Dickson and...
The Riddle of the Cordillera BlancaWho Names a Mountain?by Antonio GÓmez BohÓrquez Translated by Bean BowersIn July of 1985, Onofre P. García and I did a wall route in Peru’s Cordillera Blanca on a peak we knew as “La Esfinge” (The Sphinx), but wh...
WILL HANNUM BORROW, JR.1908 - 1964The Northwest lost one of its devoted mountain men by a coronary on September 3, 1964 in the meadows of the mountains he loved. Born June 17, 1908 in Seattle, Washington, “Jim”, as we all knew him, made Seattle hi...