Asia, Pakistan, Baltoro Cathedral
Baltoro Cathedral. The Belledo section of the Italian Alpine Club climbed two routes on the Baltoro Cathedral, the southwest ridge with camps and the southeast face alpine-style. Members were Giulio Fiocchi, leader, Dr. Alberto Sironi, Giuseppe Lafranconi, Ernesto and Sergio Panzeri, Gianluigi Lanfranchi, Carlo Duchini, Amabile Valsecchi, Daniele Chiappa, Pierino Maccarinelli, Benvenuto Laritti, Giacomo Stefani and Armando Colombari. They had hoped to climb the Trango Towers but the Pakistani government instead gave them permission for the Baltoro Cathedral or Thunmo (19,246 feet). From camp at Liliwa, they cut diagonally across the Baltoro Glacier to Base Camp at 12,800 feet at the confluence of the Dunghe Glacier with the Baltoro. After three days of reconnaissance they decided on the routes. On June 23 the siege of the southwest ridge began. They had UIAA V to V+ difficulties to climb the 2500 feet on often rotten granite to Camp I. To there they fixed 3300 feet of rope. Bad weather then delayed operations. On July 3 E. Panzeri, Lafranconi, Lanfranchi and Valsecchi returned to Camp I but Panzeri fell sick and was replaced by Laritti. Despite snow, cold, fatigue and insufficient food, they pressed on. The next section presented difficult mixed climbing, particularly around 16,000 feet. They had next two rope-lengths of overhanging rock, then dangerous loose snow and nearly vertical ice. Finally from Camp IV they reached the summit at 2:30 P.M. on July 10. The attack on the 5000-foot-high southeast face began on July 3. Chiappa, Maccarinelli, Stafani, Duchini and S. Panzeri climbed 1650 feet up a gully in the east face and traversed right on a shoulder. They climbed another 1650 feet the next day to the foot of the final buttress. To there they had had UIAA III to V difficulties. Bad weather drove them back to Base Camp. Two days later, July 6, they were back at their high point. Chiappa and Maccarinelli climbed two rope-lengths where they could not place a single piton. They bivouacked at 16,400 feet. On the 7th Stefani and S. Panzeri took the lead, climbing overhanging cracks on aid and then ice, and finally more difficult and rotten cracks before returning to the bivouac. On the 8th Chiappa, Duchini and Maccarinelli left first and above the former high point climbed rotten, snow-covered flakes. Panzeri and Stefani followed. Chiappa led a vertical dihedral to get to the top of the face followed by the rest. (UIAA V, V+, A2, A3). Easier mixed climbing took them to the top. They used 500 feet of fixed rope and 150 feet of metal ladder. A deep depression separates this high point from the summit of Thunmo.