Brammah II, Kishtwar. Brammah II (6425 meters, 21,080 feet) was climbed by Indians led by Bibhas Das in June.
Kurikashajana. On July 14, Briton Mick Davie soloed the southeast face of Kurikashajana (5510 meters, 18,078 feet) from the Quebrada Santa Cruz. He followed the obvious left-to-right traverse of the southeast face.David Sharman, Scotland
Nomenclature in the Terong Valley. The following names have been proposed to the Survey of India. Sondhi = a sudden beautiful appearance. Sundbrar = a beautiful place. There is a place by the name of Sundbrar in Baltistan. Kashmiri Brahmins and Hi...
Piz Popena. One of our members, Christine Reid, with two guides, Guiseppe Dimai and Angelo Verzi, made a new ascent of the S. face of the Piz Popena. The climb which took 4.5 hours as rated as “fourth to fifth grade” in the Dolomite “scale of diff...
South Face of Brazos Peak, New Mexico. An excellent climbing area exists on the south face of Brazos Peak in northern New Mexico. The face varies in height from 500 to 3,000 feet, the angle from 60 degrees to vertical. The cliffs, which are readil...
Voodoo Dome, Southeast Face, The Skull. As one looks at the southeast face of this broad monolith the most apparent feature is a gigantic arch which begins at tree level and rises 400 feet to its zenith. Gregory Cloutier and I chose to make a clea...
El Capitan, “Flight of the Albatross. ” In the spring, Will Oxx and I climbed “The Flight of the Albatross” (VI, 5.10, A3+), between Magic Mushroom and the Shield. It starts at Heart Ledge and climbs up the right of the Heart. It continues for 13 ...
Coonyard Pinnacle. Slightly left and 400 feet above the top of Monday Morning Slab on Glacier Point Apron rises a 40-foot slab, Coonyard Pinnacle. On September 7, Joe McKeown, Rich Calderwood and I ascended this pinnacle from the top of Monday Mor...
Gasherbrum I and II, Ascents, Attempts and Tragedy. Our international expedition of 13, led by Peter Guggemos (Germany), successfully saw 11 summiting GII and one reaching the top of GI. The weather was persistently stormy and, aside from a week o...
Chogalisa from the Northwest, Third Ascent. Our expedition was composed of Françoise Hénault, Pascal Poizat, Christian LaVergne, Philippe Arnaud, Christine Da Ronch and me. Our approach march was from July 18 to 27. Base Camp was at 4950 meters on...
Sierra Nevada de Cocuy. The Chilean Evelio Echevarrí a describes this little known region as a handsome glacial chain, located about 300 miles northeast of Bogatá, easy of access by road. When he visited the range in December 1956 he was plagued b...
Abi Gamin and Mukut Parvat East, Ascents. A 15-member Korean expedition led by Nam-il Kim made ascents of Abi Gamin (7355m) and Mukut Parvat East (7130m) in August. (This same team had climbed Mukut Parvat East II two years before.) They establish...
Everest Winter Attempt and Tragedy. A large Korean expedition led by Kim Ha-Kyung with 25 members attempted to climb Everest by the South Col route in winter. They apparently reached the South Col on December 29 but could go no higher. There was a...
Mount Waddington, New Route. During July Dave Mention and I climbed Mount Waddington by a new variation. Other party members were Tim Riordan, Jack Tackle and Dave Brunk. We approached the mountain by the Franklin Glacier, with Base Camp on the Di...
Borkoldoy Khrebet, Pik Alexander, Father’s Peak, and Pik Ibex ascents. A British team comprising Sharon Abbott, Wayne Gladwin, Mike Rosser and Stephen Saddler were the first climbers to visit the southwestern sector of the Borkoldoy range. This is...
Annapurna Attempt. Our group of ten Americans, mostly professional mountain guides, attempted to climb the north face of Annapurna by the Dutch Rib. We arrived at Base Camp on August 28, finding a large Korean expedition already at Camp I. We caug...
Makalu, South Face Attempt. A strong Austrian team failed to climb the 10,000-foot south face of Makalu, previously attempted by Yugoslavs. The leader was Wolfgang Nairz; other members were Horst Bergmann, Yves Buchheim, Walter Almberger, Helmut H...
Hypothermia and Cold Injury. Evan L. Lloyd. Apen Systems, Rockville, Maryland. 1986. 397 pages. 19 figures and tables.Although this is an excellent review of virtually all that is known today about hypothermia, the title is misleading: only seven ...
FALL ON ROCK, BELAYER TAKES HAND OFF ROPEKentucky, Red River GorgeOn Friday, March 4, I (name and age not on post) was climbing at The Motherlode on a route called Kick Me in the Jimmie (5.12) when I fell late in the day. The last fall of the last...
Nanga Parbat Tragedy. A Korean expedition led by Ryoo Gil-Man attempted the Diamir face of Nanga Parbat. On June 23, Kim Kwang-Ho slipped and fell to his death. The other members of the expedition were Chae Su-San, Jung Eun-Sang, Ha Jeong-Lea and ...