Maidon Sar, Batura Group, 1985. From Karimabad, Kike de Pablos and I first ascended with two porters the Ultar Gorge, hoping to explore possible routes on Ultar and Bojohaghur Duan Asir. After three days of exploring very complicated terrain of ro...
The West Black Butte, Cascades. During the past summer the first ascent of the West Black Butte, Mount Lincoln, was accomplished by a group comprised of Fred Beckey, Wes Grande, John Rupley, and Herb Staley. The Black Buttes are crumbling volcanic...
Colorado—Flatirons, Boulder: On 16 August 1953, Ann Blackenberg (20), Carlton Fraiser (23), and David Rose (22) set out to climb the face of the First Flatiron with the idea of exploring unknown routes. Rose had attempted to get over an overhang a...
Basketball Wall, Capitol Reef National Park. West-facing Basketball Wall is five miles up the scenic drive from the visitor center. Four high-quality routes have been established by Bret Ruckman and Marco Comacchione: Bench Warmer (5.10a), White B...
STRANDED, WEATHER, HYPOTHERMIA, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn September 27, 1991, four climbers were rescued from two different routes on El Capitan.On September 15, the first winter storm of the season moved into t...
Jabal Misht, Jabal M’Saw, Jabal M'Seeb, Jabal Kawr, Nadan Pillar; new routes. In December, I returned once again to the exotic limestone massifs of Jabal Misht and Jabal Kawr in Oman. My climbing partner on this trip was Richard Simpson, also from...
STRANDED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, WEATHER Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount AndromedaA party consisting of two men and a woman set out to climb the “Sky Ladder” route on Mount Andromeda on the morning of June 21,1993. By 1400 they were on the summit. A...
Nanda Devi, ascent and environmental clean up. In September a 40-member team from the Garhwal Rifles Regiment successfully climbed the 7816m peak via the Normal Route. This is the third ascent of Nanda Devi since the Inner Sanctuary was officially...
Nun and Kun Group. Each year, there are a number of foreign expeditions which hope to make ascents in this group. In 1990, few seem to have been successful. Spaniards led by José López Gros and Italians led by Eliano Passa did not reach the summit...
In early August, Spanish climbers Álvaro Novellón and Óscar Pérez did the first complete ascent of the northwest ridge of Latok II (7,108m). This remarkable climb ended in tragedy, however, when a fall during the descent severely injured Pérez. Wi...
Thalay Sagar, northeast face, new route. Dutch climbers Mike van Berkel, Cas van de Gevel, and Melvin Redeker fixed ropes to the col below the northeast spur and then climbed a new route on the northeast face. Very steep ice smears and an overhang...
Chaukhamba. Colonel Amit C. Roy of the Corps of Signals, Indian Army, led a successful ascent of Chaukhamba (7138 meters, 23,420 feet) from the northeast. Captains Sanjeev Singh, Nandeem Arshad and Vipin Verma, Lance Naik M. Ayoub Sofi, Nima Norbu...
The Forbidden Mountain, by Fernand Navarra. Translated by Michael Legat. London: MacDonald & Co., 1956. 174 pages; ills.; maps. Price 16 s.Mount Ararat is regarded with superstition in that part of Turkey. The story of the Ark seems to be acce...
Arch Wall, Trollveggen, Winter Ascent. Janusz Golab, Stanislaw Piecuch and I made the first winter ascent of the Arch Wall on Trollveggen. We fixed the first three pitches on February 26 and then from February 28 to March 11 stayed continuously on...
First Ascent of Mt. Lilliput. In July of 1940, Dr. Alvin Cox and I drove over the newly opened highways from Revelstoke to the Athabaska Glacier. The weather was pretty continuously unpleasant—lots of rain and low-lying clouds, but we did make a f...
Mount Asgard, North Face. Spaniards Txus Lizanaga, Raoul Melero, Miguel Berazaluce and Natxo Baniciso climbed a new route on the north face of the peak. Nunavut is 800 meters long and was rated VI 6a A4. The team spent 17 days on the wall climbing...
Kiss or Kill: Confessions of a Serial Climber. Mark Twight. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2001.206 pages. $16.95This book contains a collection of Twight's writings that were published mostly in climbing magazines between 1985 and 2000. As he s...
Mt. Proboscis, Spanish Variation, Second Ascent. Over the first two weeks of July, 1997, and as part of the BBC television series “The Face,” Nancy Feagin and I made the second ascent of the Spanish Variation to the 1963 route (McCarthy-Kor-Robbin...
Diran, Ascent and Attempts. Diran (7257 meters, 23,810 feet) was attempted by six expeditions in 1994. All, except for an expedition of 10 Koreans led by Mun Hwan-Choi, failed to reach the summit. These included 8 Swiss led by Martin Bernhard Fisc...
Nilgiri North Attempt. Seven Frenchmen under the leadership of Bernard Moreau had hoped in the post-monsoon season to climb the Netherlands route on the north face to the west ridge of Nilgiri North (7061 meters, 23,165 feet). They reached 19,300 ...