Mount Temple, South Face. Fritz Zimmermann, Stan Gregory, and I made the first complete ascent of the south side of Mount Temple on September 3. Starting from the western end of Snow Lakes we followed a long system of slabby but easy gullies to th...
Huantsán. Our expedition placed Base Camp at Rajucolta Cocha on July 16. We placed Camp I at 16,900 feet on July 19, traversed the peak west of the col at the foot of the northwest ridge of the north peak of Huantsán and established Camp II in the...
Peak 10,091' and Other Activity. On May 10, Tracey Becken, Bill Drake and I were flown by Kelly Bay of Wrangell Mountain Air into the 8,300-foot level of the upper Chisana Glacier some seven miles north of Frederika Mountain. On May 11, we skied u...
El Gran Trono Blanco, Sierra Juárez. Werner Landry and I made the second ascent of the superb route, the “Giraffe,” in March, 1978, during three days of poor weather. The previously unreported first ascent was done in two-and-a-half days in 1975 b...
Quitaraju, Alpamayo, Artesonraju, Chacraraju Este and Other Peaks. While we were in the Cordillera Blanca, the weather was rather unstable. There was little snow, which exposed rock and black ice and left bergschrunds open. We placed Base Camp in ...
Mount Everest, Ascent by George Mallory. Our team ascended the North Face route. On May 10, our first summit team left ABC to position themselves at C6 for a May 14 attempt. Chirring Sherpa, George Mallory and Jeff Hall were the first to summit at...
In April I climbed the east face of Mt. Osborne (4,714') with Phillip Hofstetter. The climb was 2,500' of moderate 45° snow, ice, and cliff bands. Osborne is the monarch of the Kigluaik Range, 35 miles north of Nome, along the spine of the Seward ...
ILLNESS-DIABETES, STRANDED, BAD WEATHERColorado, Capitol PeakOn September 8, 1981, Mike Harder (20) died before rescuers could reach him at the base of Capitol Peak. He was in a party of four who became stranded in bad weather. Two of the climbers...
Mulkila, 1977. On their way home from K2, on October 10, 1977 the Japanese Yu Watanabe and Yoji Teranishi climbed Mulkila (21,380 feet) from the north. They climbed the Mulkila Glacier to a 18,000-foot col. On October 8 they followed the snow ridg...
Peak 6100m, Ascent. A seven-member expedition from Bengal, India, led by Himadri Shekhar Bose, climbed an unnamed peak of 6100 meters near Kali nala, Losar area. The peak was climbed on August 31 by Soumen Deoghoria, Bijan Dey and Chhering Palden ...
The Pulpit, Zion National Park. Standing alone just across the Virgin River a few hundred feet from the end of the road in Zion National Park, the hard red sandstone of the Pulpit was an obvious climbing challenge. Pat Callis, Galen Rowell, Eric B...
SLIP ON SNOW, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn July 4, 1983, about 1230, Kevin Brown (23) was traversing the top of a snowfield on the way to the base of the Northwest Face of Half Dome when he slipped and fell about 75 meters dow...
Pier Giorgio. Pier Giorgio (9515 feet) is doubtless one of the most important virgin peaks in the beautiful FitzRoy region. Violent and continuous storms have prevented various expeditions from climbing it. The expedition of the Centro Andino Buen...
Nanda Devi Attempt. An Indian Army Engineer Expedition of 24 was led by Captain Jai Bahuguna. They lost a porter in a crossing of the Rishi Ganga on the approach. Base Camp was placed at 16,800 feet on May 6. Up to Camp III at 20,800 feet all went...
Cerro Fitz Roy, Diedro Directo. Ben Gilmore and I completed a new variation to the Casarotto Route on the North (Goretta) Pillar of Fitz Roy. Diedro Directo (VI 5.10 A3, 32 pitches) has 12 new pitches of climbing before joining the old Casarotto l...
South Face of Chimney Rock Ridge. From our campsite directly below Indian Pass on the north fork of Bull Lake Creek, Martin Epp, Ernst von Allmen, and I climbed the obvious skyline route on the south face of the ridge formed by Chimney rock. The r...
SLIP ON ROCK OR ICE, UNROPEDBritish Columbia, Yoho National Park, Mount Dennis, Carlsberg ColumnOn November 19, two climbers were approaching the base of Carlsberg Column (60 m. II WI5), a waterfall ice climb on Mount Dennis in Yoho National Park....
P 6648. P 6648 (21,812 feet), which lies between Devistan and Devtoli, was finally climbed by three members of a Japanese expedition on September 22. The six-man team, led by Kenji Hirasawa, approached by the Trisul Nala.
Mount Tyndall East Face Couloir. Mount Tyndall’s rather expansive and sheer east face falls from a long north-south summit ridge. Strangely, it has not seen climbing except at its extreme south end, quite distant from the summit. On May 31, 1970, ...
Fünf jahrhunderte Triglav, by Julius Kugy. 8vo. ; xi + 378 pages, with 48 full-page illustrations. Graz : Leykam-Verlag, 1938. Price RM. 11.50.The Triglav is not merely a mountain, it is a kingdom : the realm of Zlatarog, the white chamois, whose ...