This is the twenty-ninth Annual Report of the Safety Committee of the American Alpine Club. Again it can be reported that the total number of accidents recorded here are less, though not considerably less, than the total number which likely occurr...
The Location of Mt. Milton and the Restoration of the Names “Mt. Milton” and “Mt. Cheadle”Raymond T. ZillmerTHE expedition of Milton and Cheadle is one of the most remarkable in the amateur exploration of Canada. But the marker on the monument to ...
Clemenceau’s Northeast ArêteGray ThompsonMOUNT CLEMENCEAU is the fourth highest peak in the Canadian Rockies. Like Mount Robson, it is a massive and complex peak, isolated from neighboring summits on all sides by low-elevation drainages and glacie...
Mountain of Storms, The American Expeditions to Dhaulagiri, 1969 and 1973, by Andrew Harvard and Todd Thompson. New York: Chelsea House, New York University Press, 210 pages. 52 pages of black and white illustrations and 14 color plates plus maps....
K2 Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition was composed of Slovenes Dr. Damijan Meško, Viki Grošelj, Davo Karnicar, Boštjan Kekec, Rado Nadvenik, Zvonko Požgaj, Boris Sedej and me as leader, Croat Stipe Božic, Mexican Carlos Carsolio, Swede Göran Kropp...
Oliver Perry-Smith Profile of a MountaineerJ. Monroe Thoringtonin evaluating the record of a climber whose activity reached its climax sixty years ago, one must place it against the standards of its time. In the 1860s when many of the 4000-meter p...
Dorado Needle, South Side. In August Margarite Hargrave and I did a new route on the south side of Dorado Needle up a prominent ridge leading towards a point southeast of the main summit. We approached from a camp at the Klawatti col, traversing w...
Meru South, west face/northwest ridge to below summit, BASE jump of northeast face; Meru Central, second ascent, west face/southeast ridge. May 23 saw the completion of a six-year project to climb to and perform a wingsuit BASE jump from the “high...
Mountains with a Difference, by Geoffrey Winthrop Young. A volume in “The New Alpine Library,” edited by Arnold Lunn. 282 pages, 14 illustrations. London: Eyre and Spottiswoode, 1951. Price, 18/-.All who know Mountain Craft and On High Hills are s...
OME DAIBER1907-1989The “Father of Mountain Rescue,” Ome Daiber, died on April 2, 1989 in his 81st year. A member of the American Alpine Club since 1937, he was made an honorary member in 1976.The story goes that young George Daiber went to the lun...
BRUCE ALLAN CARSON1951–1975Bruce Carson died on September 4, 1975. He fell through a cornice on the summit of Trisul, a 23,362-foot peak in the Indian Himalayas. Falling through a cornice is not a common way to die in the Himalayas. Climbers are m...
Peak royalties. Nepalese authorities keep trying to spread expeditions both geographically and seasonally. “Keeping in mind that mountaineering tourism is the backbone of Nepal’s tourism,” a Ministry official stated on April 30, “to make royalty f...
Mt. Hunter, Moonflower Buttress, Ascents, Attempt and Tragedy. The Moonflower Buttress on Mt. Hunter saw two ascents this year and one tragic attempt. Steve Larson and Charlie Townsend began up around May 22; a day later, Joe Terrevecchia and Carl...
Harvard Andean Expedition, Cordillera Blanca. In June, Henry S. Francis, Jr. and his wife Sharon, John S. Humphreys and his wife Alice, Stephen Pomerance and I explored new routes in the Quebrada Parón. Laguna Parón was crossed with the aid of a m...
IN the northern Cascades destiny gave a peak of no special significance a precipice that in recent years has almost become legendary. Because Bear Mountain is flanked by more prominent summits and because its great north wall is slightly concave a...
The idea of a route up Lhotse from the South Col had been floating in the air for a long time. The north ridge is a logical line, but what about the pinnacles on the crest? What about climbing lower, along the west flank, along the rocky ledges th...
Our primary objective was the Gran route on the north face of Monolith. We approached the mountain from Dickinson Park on the northeast (Lander) side and established Base Camp near Papoose Lake. Preferring to warm up on an easier climb, Al Rubin a...
Harvard Mountaineering Club, The past year added another year to a sequence of active ones. During the summer members participated in expeditions in the Yukon, Alaska, and South America. In the St. Elias Range, Boyd Everett’s expedition made the f...
FALL ON ROCK—HAND HOLD CAME OFF, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, OFF ROUTE Wyoming, Grant Tetons, Symmetry SpireOn July 14, Chris Schroeder (34) and his partner Ronald Fleck were attempting an ascent of the Southwest Ridge of Symmetry Spire (II 5.7). Schro...
Makalu II (7,678m), new route and first ascent from Tibet. Jean Christophe Lafaille’s ambitious and committing plan was a solo expedition to make the first ascent of Makalu II (aka Kangchungtse) from Tibet, traverse the summit to the Makalu La at ...