South America, Bolivia, Soral Este, Soral Oeste, Salluyo and Chaupi Orco, Cordillera Apolobamba

Publication Year: 1981.

Soral Este, Soral Oeste, Salluyo and Chaupi Orco, Cordillera Apolbamba. Italians Ostilio Campese, leader, Nico Bidese, Bortolo Fontana, Paolo Conte, Giancarlo Contalbrigo and Giuseppe Pierantoni traveled in June from La Paz to Peluchuco and thence to Base Camp at 14,275 feet, apparently north of the Soral peaks. They climbed to the col between these peaks. Fontana and Campese continued along the narrow but not too steep ridge to the summit of Soral Este (5470 meters, 17,946 feet). The other four climbed to the top of Soral Oeste (5630 meters, 18,471 feet). They then pitched a camp below Chaupi Orco at 16,400 feet. They all followed the long south glacier to the top of Salluyo (5808 meters, 19,056 feet), not a difficult climb. From that high camp Bidese, Pierantoni and Contalbrigo in twelve hours made a new route, the north face of Soral Oeste. The 2000-foot ice face was difficult low and very difficult high, ending in a final vertical wall of 250 feet. Bidese and Pierantoni moved camp to the north to the very foot of Chaupi Orco while Fontana, Campese and Conte explored a marvelous glacier in the opposite direction, surrounded by twelve peaks. Bidese and Pierantoni climbed Chaupi Orco (6044 meters, 19,830 feet) by its long but not difficult southwest ridge. Campese and Conte moved a camp to the east side of Chaupi Orco but failed to climb the peak from there, being turned back by an icefall at 18,950 feet.