REPORT OF THE SAFETY COMMITTEE OF THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB1950The mountain accidents reported during 1949 from the English-speaking portions of North America have fortunately been fewer than those of the previous two seasons. Particularly striking...
Fox Jaw Cirque, various ascents. During July, Matteo Della Bordella, Richard Felderer, Lorenzo “Pala” Lanfranchi, and Simone Pedeferri from the Ragni di Lecco climbed four new routes in the Fox Jaw Cirque.The team climbed five routes in 20 days an...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, CLIMBING UNROPED, INEXPERIENCE, FATIGUE Alaska, Pioneer PeakOn Monday, March 16, 1987, at 0330,I was contacted by Bruce McCormick of the Alaska Mountain Rescue Group and requested to respond to a staging area al...
Mount Burney, PatagoniaEric E. ShiptonMOUNT Burney is a volcano standing near the northwest corner of the Muñoz Gamero Peninsula, which is about 2000 square miles in area. Though a familiar landmark seen from ships passing through Smyth and Union ...
Over 15 days during February 2012, Mason Earle (U.S.), Sam Farnsworth (U.K.), Siebe Vanhee (Belgium), and I weaved an improbable, intricate path directly behind Salto Tuyuren, topping out within a stones throw of where the waterfall bursts from th...
Alpinisme Hivernal, by Marcel Kurz. Payot, Paris, Second printing, 1928. F. 50.The reprinting of this justly famous work is a propitious moment to bring it to the attention of our readers. One of the few books written in French on winter mountaine...
A JET. YES, I was sure it was a jet. It was only slightly different, but uniquely so, from the roar of avalanches thundering down everywhere around us. I’d only recently seen huge tongues of boiling snow flickering out from the base of the wal...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressClaude Ratté was a member of the Quebecoise 2008 Expedition, which consisted of two party members out of Quebec. Richard Cadorette, the second team member, had left the expedition ap...
Antarctic InterludeWilliam R. LatadyON 19 February 1948 the U. S. Navy icebreakers Burton Island and Adisto plowed through the three feet of ice that gripped the wooden tug Port of Beaumont. The tug had been locked in the ice for a year; and its c...
Simian Climbing Club. The 1966–1967 school year was a busy one for the University of Illinois Simians. More than 100 members received club instruction in rock climbing, while attendance at outings to Portland Arch in Indiana and Devils Lake, Wisco...
Aconcagua (6,962m), 2007-2008 season overview. This season 7,658 climbers and trekkers arrived at the provincial park, 345 more than last season (visitation grows yearly by about 5–10%). Of these, 4,548 had a climbing permit, 1,400 succeeded (abou...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPEDWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, The Grand TraverseOn July 19 about 1030,1 received a call from Fred of Butte, Montana. Fred voiced concern for a friend and climbing partner of his, Dwight Bishop (49), wh...
Our trip had an adventurous spirit, partly because we are 19- and 20-year-old geology students with a lot of time and little money And Norway is one of the last places in Europe where you can enjoy true adventure. For us, during our last year at h...
December 17, 1954.Dear Sir:Ever since Mt. Everest was determined to be the highest known point on the earth’s surface, its elevation, as published by responsible and irresponsible sources, has fluctuated alarmingly from the figure computed by the ...
Ukrainians Igor Chaplinsky, Michel Formin, and Vitali Todorenko climbed directly up the famous south pillar of Ushba, adding 130m of possibly new ground on the steep central section. The center of the pillar was climbed to two-thirds height in 1...
Annapurna Dakshin Attempt. Frenchman Philippe Berger and a companion tried to climb Annapurna Dakshin by its southwest ridge. They reached 5750 meters (18,865 feet) on May 13 but could not go higher.Elizabeth Hawley
FALL ON ROCK – SCRAMBLING WITH FULL PACK, WEATHER and FALL OFF LOG – STREAM CROSSINGWashington, North Cascades National Perk, Inspiration TraverseOn July 26, Cathleen (50) and Bob Terczak (50’s) were on day four of an alpine traverse across the so...
Carstensz Pyramid, Irian Jaya (New Guinea). This is the highest peak (5030 meters, 16,503 feet or 4884 meters, 15,023 feet) in Australasia. We pursued it as a part of Pat Morrow’s successful quest to climb the highest mountain on all seven contine...
Two Southern Peaks of New ZealandKate GardinerWHEN winter winds are sweeping through the leafless trees of New Jersey and the Canadian Rockies are again shrouded in snow, a new summer has begun on the other side of the world and the foothills of t...
Flakstadoy Island, Stortinden, Slovakiaruta. Miro Mrava and Brano Turcek, two climbers from the Slovak Mountaineering Union, JAMES, spent two weeks in northern Norway from August 2 to 17. On the 10th they made a new route on Stortinden, an 866m pe...