Todd Richard Skinner 1957-2006Todd is gone, fallen from life. My greatest friend, my chosen brother, a part of my heart and world for 30 years. We have lost a contagious source of energy, which fueled the lives and dreams of countless people.Todd ...
Tetons, Wyoming: (1) Nez Perce. On 5 July 1948 Winthrop Akin and Ben Pedrick, members of the Kachina Mountain Club, of Phoenix, Arizona, climbed Nez Perce from Jenny Lake by the usual route (west ridge and north face). They reached the summit at 1...
Little Tirich Mir Attempt, Owir VII. The Alpine Club of Canada expedition was composed of Murray Foubister, Dr. James Prahl, Jan Smith and me as leader; our liaison officer was Captain Abbas Raza. We left the town of Chitral on September 2 and tra...
hHainablak, Ascent. Hainablak is the prominent granite aiguille named by Ardito Desio in 1929 during his exploratory reconnaissance up the Baltoro Glacier. The tower, which can be seen in in this journal on page 25 and in AAJ 1997 on page 322 behi...
Little Snowdome, North Face, Columbia Icefields. Ward Robinson and I climbed an interesting route in April on the north face of Little Snowdome. It can be seen on the approach to “Slipstream.” The face is about 2500 feet high. We climbed the centr...
Moses, Canyonlands National Park. One of the last great desert towers, this one discreetly hidden in remote Taylor Canyon east of the Green River, was climbed October 26. Lin Ottinger, Moab tour guide, had long known of it under the name “Moses,” ...
Alaska Alpine Club. The 1961 climbing season began with a January attempt on still unclimbed McGinnis Peak in the eastern Alaska Range. In March, eleven climbers made the first ascent of Old Snowy in the Castner Glacier area of the Alaska Range. U...
Mt. Western Doppah, Northeast Face/Northeast Ridge. From July 21-27, a team from the Moscow mountain club Strannik (“pilgrim”) comprised of V. Zadokhin, leader; V. Doolnev, M. Borschev, V. Polivko, A. Filipov and P. Yatsenko established a new rout...
Pumahuacanca and other peaks. I met Alistair McKeith, a Scottish climber, by chance in Huaraz. Hoping to make the first ascent of Pumahuacanca (“weeping puma” in Quechua), we left the road at Olleros on June 19 and followed the ancient trade route...
Jurau, West Face. A British expedition had hoped to climb the previously unascended west face of Siulá Chico but failed because of bad weather and health problems. However, Brian Barker and Jonathan Preston did complete a new route on the difficul...
1951-651966GeographicalDistrictsNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedCanadaAlberta14616213British Columbia18832223Yukon Territory101000Quebec111000United StatesAtlantic–North722493707South323000...
Mount Everest Reconnaissance from the North, 1978. Fifteen Iranian and twenty Chinese climbers made a reconnaissance of the North Col route on Mount Everest in 1978. They brought 185 tons of materials and were supported by several hundred. Base Ca...
Passu Peak Attempt. Our expedition consisted of Mamoru Shimizu, Norihide Taniuchi, Makihiro Wakao, Kazuhisa Ikegami, Hitoshi Mitsuishi, Kanichi Ichikawa and me as leader. We placed Base Camp at 13,300 feet on May 22 after a three-day approach from...
Basaseachic Waterfall, Soy Caliente. Morgan Black, Aidan Oloman, and Sean Easton established Soy Caliente (5.11, Al, 9 pitches) ground-up over two weeks in November and December. Forty 3/8-inch bolts and 20 rivets were placed. Thirty meters were A...
Truce Group, Purcells. On July 19 John Barton, Nick Dodge, Tom Ettinger, Gary Kirk, Mark Temple and I finally met at the end of a new logging road, 11 miles up Glacier Creek. After crashing through a landslide which had covered the last third of a...
New Hampshire, Mt. Washington. On 24 March Jeff Damp (21), Tom Davis (19), and Donn Stahlman (19) were climbing the Odel Gully in Huntington Ravine. Conditions were snowy and foggy and at a near white out. They climbed on firm ice and snow. After ...
FALL ON ROCK, RAPPEL ERROR-FAILURE TO EQUALIZE ENDS OF RAPPEL ROPE, AND FAILURE TO TIE KNOTS IN THE ENDCalifornia, Joshua Tree National Park, Solid GoldOn February 8, Jay Fitzgerald (21) and Victor Guzik (21 were simul-rappel- ling off of the seco...
Everest, Winter Attempts. A team of six French and two Belgian climbers led by Eric Dossin attempted to climb the west ridge of Everest. South Koreans led by Oh In-Whan were on the South Col route. Strong winter winds kept both parties from climbi...
El Gigante, Bernat Pudent. Last summer we flew from Catalonia to Mexico. We had seen pictures of the impressive west face of El Gigante and our goal was to open a new route. Although June seemed too late to climb this sunny wall, we decided to try...
Bhrikuti Attempt. An expedition of nine French, a Nepali, a Sherpa and a Tamang were climbing on the Japanese route of the spring of 1982, the west ridge. On April 30, Jean-Yves Ferrand, Pierre Gaillot and Bruno Kriner got to 6250 meters but Ferra...