Asia, India—Himachal Pradesh (Punjab), Methosa

Publication Year: 1972.

Menthosa. An expedition of the Frosinone section of the Club Alpino Italiano was composed of Vittorio Kulczycki, leader, Lorenzo Favè, Antonio Colasanti, Roberto Ferrante, Roberto Franceschetti, Luigi Lauro, Leone Mincio, Vicenzo Monti, Luciano Ploner and Cesare Stefanoli. After approaching via the Chandra valley, they set up Base Camp at 14,750 feet on the Menthosa Glacier on September 25. An Advanced Base was placed some 650 feet higher. Camp I at 17,000 feet was used for reconnaissance of the northwest ridge of Menthosa but they gave up this route in favor of that used by previous attempts. The chief difficulty was a 200-foot wall of ice. Camp II at 19,350 feet was in an enormous cirque, the left ridge of which is deceptively difficult. Finally on October 5 Ploner and Fave made the second ascent of Menthosa (21,140 feet). Other members climbed two lower peaks. (The first ascent of Menthosa was made on October 13, 1970 by the British Rae and Cape.) A Japanese expedition from Keio University, Makoto Tokemura, Kouhei Ikubo, Ken Uchida and Masayuki Yoshikawa, had failed to climb the mountain in June.