Joshua Tree Rock Climbing Guide. Randy Vogel. Chockstone Press, Denver, 1986. 401 pages, black and white photographs, line drawings, maps. $25.00 (paper).Joshua Tree National Monument is the winter playground of snowbound climbers from all over th...
Saraghrar Southeast, first ascent. In July a Neuchatel Swiss Alpine Club expedition, which comprised nine members led by Jean-Michel Zweiacker, made the first ascent of Saraghrar Southeast (7,208m) in the High Hindu Kush.On June 22 the expedition,...
El Mocho, Torre de la Media Luna, Saint Exupéry, Aguja Rafael, Poincenot, 1993-94. From December 28 to 31, 1993, Adriano Cavallaro and I climbed a new route on the northwest dihedral of El Mocho. This beautiful 400-meter- high route ascended in it...
The Exploration of the Sources of the McLennan RiverRaymond T. ZillmerWHEN exploring the sources of the Canoe River two years ago, Lorin Tiefenthaler and I were intrigued by a spectacular group of peaks to the N. of the river. We saw them as we lo...
EDWARD FEUZ, SR.1859-1944In 1899 the Canadian Pacific Railroad brought out its first Swiss guides, Edward Feuz, Sr.,1 and Christian Häsler, Sr., and stationed them at Glacier House. As Charles E. Fay, soon to become first President of the American...
Operation White TowerBradford WashburnTHE ORIGINAL idea for Operation White Tower was developed by Paul Hollister, of RKO Radio Pictures, which expects to film The White Tower in the Alps next year. This picture will require infinitely more “on lo...
Introducing First Ascents and New Routes In The Greater Ranges” an annual list compiled by the Expeditions Commission oj the Union Internationale des Associations d:Alpinisme (UIAA).Joss LynamIn 1996 the Expeditions Commission of the UIAA decided ...
My Path to ParadiseFinally, a direct route on Cerro Torre’s east face.Ermanno SalvaterraI clip another copperhead, then two rivets, and finally reach the last belay station of Cerro Torre’s headwall. A few more moves up icy rock and I am there. Ha...
At 2:30 p.m. on October 29, Michael Lerjen, my brother Samuel, and I stood on the summit of Pasang Lhamu Chuli. We were not exactly full of joy. Pasang Lhamu Chuli hasn’t got an easy way off down the backside. Like the Matterhorn, once you reach t...
Washington, Mt. Rainier—Ingraham Glacier—On September 1, the collapse of a large mass of snow and ice into a hidden crevasse above the 13,000 foot level of the Ingraham Glacier on Mt. Rainier resulted in the death of a novice climber, William Haup...
FALL/SLIP ON SNOW—New Hampshire, Mt. Washington, Tuckerman’s Ravine. On Saturday, May 8, Scott Whinnery (25) hiked with two companions to Tuckerman’s Ravine for a day of skiing. Scott was a professional ski patrolman and was considered an excellen...
After an expedition to Dolpo, Tamotsu Ohnishi’s Osaka Alpine Club expedition returned to Kathmandu, and some members flew home. The remaining six left for a trek up the Buri Gandaki on October 7. Before Nyuk (Ngyak) they turned right and headed up...
Aguja de la Media Luna. Robyn Bunch and I ascended the standard East Face route on this rock spire below Cerro Torre during the first week of February, 1996. It is an 11-pitch rock route directly above the Norwegian Bivy and follows obvious corner...
Ships Prow, Sarchasm. As reported in last year’s volume, Pat Adams and Jim Redo climbed the three-pitch Bologna Pony (5.12c) on Ships Prow. This was one of the hardest climbs in the Park until Tommy Caldwell upped the ante with a 120-foot direct s...
Satopanth, Northeast Ridge. The expedition consisted of 12 members with two high altitude porters. We established Base Camp in Vasuki Tal at 4900 meters on July 3, 1995, Camp I on the Sundar Glacier at 5400 meters on July 7, and Camp II on the nor...
Artesonraju, Southeast Face, and Pisco Oeste, from Laguna Parón. Since it is not possible to get to the other end of Laguna Parón on foot, we crossed it in a rubber boat we were lucky enough to borrow. Base Camp was at the far end of the lake. On ...
Texas Tower has a big reputation, as it is one of the tallest pure sandstone towers in the desert southwest. The only existing route, first climbed in 1987 by Tim Toula and Kathy Zaiser on the west face, still seems to see as many failures as asce...
North Face of North Early Winter Spire. This new route, the second on the imposing North Early Winter Spire, is almost on the opposite side from the original climb of 1951. It is an excellent 400-foot climb on good granite. On August 31 Joe Hieb a...
P. 5400m, Ascent. It was reported that a five-man German team (Markus Aigneherr, Martin Grziwarsch, Bernd Illguth, Christian Schultes and Florian Siemer) climbed the north pillar of a 5400-meter rock spire above the Biafo Glacier. They established...
Mount Temple, North Face in Winter. Barry Blanchard and I climbed a winter route on the north face of Mount Temple from March 16 to 18. We believe it is a new line. It had been tried twice earlier in the season by two other teams which were thwart...