Purcell Range, Farnham Group. During August 1954 a party of five, four of us members of the Harvard Mountaineering Club, climbed in the Farnham Group of the Purcell Range. The party was composed of Arthur Read, Robert West, his wife Peggy, Peter L...
Poincenot, southwest face, Rise of the Machines. Over the years Jens Holsten, Mikey Schaefer, and I spent hours studying a high-resolution photo, picking out a line on this aesthetic face. It looked like high-quality, straight-in cracks to where i...
The Lloyd George MountainsJ. Monroe ThoringtonBECAUSE of improved transportation facilities by airplane, the unexplored region of British Columbia between the Finlay, Peace and Fort Nelson (Liard) Rivers is of increasing interest to mountaineers.T...
Bindu Gul Zorn II. We traveled by jeep through Chitral and reached Zum-gramgran in the Tirich valley on July 21. We pitched Base Camp on July 24 on the Lower Tirich Glacier below the Bindu Gul Zom peaks. A long ridge descends eastward from Tirich ...
Alaska—Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes: (The U.S.G.S. has requested that the person’s name involved in the following accident be omitted out of consideration for the family.) W. J. (24) left the U.S.G.S. Camp on the south bank of Knife Creek just no...
FALL ON ROCK - FAILURE TO BELAY THUMBCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn Oct 12, Matt Krueger (41) and I, John Robinson (64), started climbing up to Sickle Ledge from the base of El Cap, intending to fix our lines for a head start on the Nos...
Five Miles High: The Story of an Attack on the Second Highest Mountain in the World, by Members of the First American Karakoram Expedition. Edited by Robert H. Bates. 8 vo.; xii +381, with 38 illustrations from photos, 1 chart and 2 maps. New York...
RAPPEL ERROR—NO RACKUP/RELAY, INEXPERIENCE, WEATHER British Columbia, Park Range, Watchtower PeakThe Watchtower (2543 meters) is a grade 5.7 rock climb in Yoho National Park. On August 14, 1993, N.W. and J.O. set out from the Lake O’Hara road at 1...
Nepal Himalaya, expedition endorsements cut, Mt. Everest fees lowered, garbage deposits changed. For several years the American Alpine Club lobbied to remove the endorsement letter required for expeditions wanting to climb in Nepal. This included ...
Washington, Mt. Rainier National Park—On September 5, Mr. Sam Raether (24) was rescued from east wall of Nisqually Glacier moraine after being stranded for six hours. He was removed by National Park Service rescue team at 11:30 p.m. No injuries. I...
Mount Hunter, Southeast Ridge, Hard Saying Not Knowing. In early May, Judd Stewart and myself (Wesley Bunch) were flown into a seldom-visited arm of the Tokositna Glacier by pilot Doug Geeting. We arrived with the intention of attempting a new rou...
Panch Chuli II (6,904m), ascents and tragedies. In one of the worst avalanche tragedies in the history of Himalayan mountaineering nine members of an Indo-Tibet Border Police team to Panch Chuli II (the highest of the Panch Chuli Group at 6,904m) ...
An Italian expedition to the Andes has been organized by the Club Alpino Academico Italiano under the leadership of Count Aldo Bonacossa. We understand that the plans call for an ascent of Aconcagua and Cerro del Plomo. The party hope to make a co...
Chogolisa Glacier: Pk. 5,500m, north face; Raven's Peak, south face; Capucin, south face; Pk. 6,000m, northwest face. Charakusa Glacier: Iqbal’s Wall, attempt. As in 2004, when we climbed above the Chogolisa Glacier, north of the Charakusa, comple...
Alaskan Kayak MountaineeringWalter R GovewITH PRESENT TECHNOLOGY and techniques and given sufficient time and willingness to accept risks, it is now possible to climb any serious mountaineering objective. And with the successful ascent of virtuall...
ICE COLUMN COLLAPSE - FALL ON ICE, LATE SEASONWyoming, Yellowstone National Park, Grand Canyon of the YellowstoneOn May 25, Mark Ehrich (28) and Michael Kellch (29) died when a frozen waterfall called Silver Cord Cascade collapsed while they were ...
Stjernebannertinde, Ascent, and Exploration of Kaffeklubben and Oodaap Islands. In July of 1996 the American Top of the World Expedition set up a base camp near Bliss Bugt on the north slope of Johannes Jensen Land 30 miles east of Kap Jessup. The...
Hiunchuli Attempt, Annapurna Group. Slovenes Bojan Pockar, leader, Tadej Golob and Štefan Mlinaric visited Hiunchuli (6441 meters, 21,133 feet), hoping to climb the virgin 2000-meter southwest face. Not finding an easy approach, they moved over to...
In 2007 Dick Isherwood, Peter Rowat, and I attempted Yang- molong [AAJ 2008). In September-October 2009 we returned with Derek Buckle to explore the northern approaches. We traveled up the Sanchu River valley and stayed at lower Sanglong Xi,...
Yerupajá, South Face, Ascent. It was reported that in 1997, an Austrian team climbed the south face of Yerupajá (6634m) to the south summit on what may have been a new route. Further details are lacking. (High Mountain Sports 189)