North Face of the Devils Tower. After a thorough reconnaissance, Jim McCarthy and I proposed to put a route through the only remaining unclimbed face of the tower, the north. The climb followed a single crack from the easy base slabs to within one...
TWENTY years ago, in 1956, four parties attempted to climb Mount McKinley but none were successful in reaching the summit. Ten years ago, 22 climbers in five parties were on Mount McKinley. Ten of these climbers reached the summit. On July 6, 19...
DONALD G. ONTHANK1891-1981At the Annual Meeting of The American Alpine Club on Mount Hood in 1979, Don Onthank was given a standing ovation as the first Endowed Life Member of the Club. This recognition was symbolic of the respect and affection fe...
Andringintra National Park, Mitsinjoarivio, east face, Relief. In July and August 2007 Pawel Wycislik, and I visited the Tsaranoro massif, where we repeated six established routes, one of these a redpoint ascent of the 1998 Piola-Robert route Le C...
FALL ON ROCK, TOP-ROPE ANCHOR PULLED OUT Wyoming, Blacktail ButteOn July 5, 1986, Chuck Blackwell (27) was attempting a 5.11 move on Blacktail Butte when he fell about a meter. His partner, Chris Lloyd (24), was belaying from below—the rope being ...
FALL ON ROCKWyoming, Grand Tetons, Cloudveil DomeOn July 1, about 0630, Heather Paul (34) and Susie Schenk (38) departed from Lupine Meadows with plans to complete a traverse of Cloudveil Dome from the South Fork of Garnet Canyon. When they arrive...
Wet and Wild in KichatnasFour thousand feet of rainy big wall on Middle Triple Peak by Kitty CalhounKitty, something is bothering me,” Jay Smith said with apprehension.“What?”“I’ve gotta go back and do that route on Middle Triple that Steve Gerber...
West of the Stikine — Part II*Fred BeckeyThe highest and most rugged mountains in the British Columbia and Alaska Coast Range between the Waddington and Fairweather groups are the majestic peaks between the historic Stikine River and the Pacific O...
Mountains of the Pyrenees. Kev Reynolds. Cicerone Press, Milnthorpe (Cumbria), 1982. 151 pages, 72 black and white photographs, 17 sketch maps, bibliography. £10.00.Not a guidebook but a general introductory work to the high borderland peaks betwe...
South Georgia, various activity. Bad weather thwarted attempts by a team off the 15m ketch Gambo to make three first ascents on South Georgia, and a new route up the island’s highest peak, Mt. Paget. During the team’s month-long stay, mass balance...
Jabal Yiti, Hassal Hidn Pillar, Jabal Kawr-Kawr Tower, Mawal Needle, Jabal Awi, various ascents. Drawn by an exotic fascination with the Arabian Peninsula, Roberto Masia and I left Sardinia on December 23. Our idea was to explore the central part ...
Huascarán. Generally this was a disappointing year for climbers in the Cordillera Blanca. The weather never completely stabilized, a condition which has grown progressively worse in the last four years. Twenty-four groups composed of 134 climbers ...
Atlas Mountains, Taghia, Jbel Tagoujimt N’ Tsouaint, Tamdoine. At the end of September the team of three Catalonians (Jordi Jambert Dorca, Moisés Llado Dorca, David Font Ventura) and one Mexican (me) drove from Girona, Spain, to Algeciras. Once th...
Condoriri, Northwest Face and Kalhuani, Cordillera Real. On July 3 John Ross and I headed toward the 1500-foot-high northwest face of Condoriri. Since it seemed relatively free of obstacles, we aimed straight at the eastern summit. First we had to...
K2, discovery of Dudley Wolfe’s body. Most of the expeditions gave up toward the end of July and headed for home, but Araceli Segarra’s team, which included the Mexican, Hector Ponce de Léon, and American cameraman, Jeff Rhoades, remained and were...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONWashington, Icicle Creek CanyonThe accident occurred on April 29, during the final hours of a two day rock climbing training session for intermediate students from the Everett Branch of The...
JiaziRichard M. NoltingTHE WEST FACE of Jiazi rose into veiw as I made my way across boulders to the edge of the Riuchi Glacier. The face was probably a mile high, broad, craggy and laced with snow-and-ice runnels—an ice-climber’s mountain with a ...
Postcards from the Ledge: Collected Mountaineering Writings of Greg Child. Greg Child. Mountaineers Books: Seattle, 1998. 25 black-and-white photos. 224 pages. $22.95.Among the voices of the several climbers writing well about climbing today, Greg...
FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, CLIMBING ALONEColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Flattop MountainOn May 11 between 1100 and 1200, a man (57) fell approximately 50-100 feet while climbing a 45-degree snow colouir on the northwest flank of...
Mountain People. Michael Tobias, editor. University of Oklahoma Press, Norman, 1986. 219 pages, black-and-white and color photographs, maps. $29.95.For the past several years I have been looking forward to the Christmas season. Just about that tim...