FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY AND COMMUNICATIONSColorado, Rocky Mountain National ParkOn April 27,1985, on Old Man Mountain, Toby Cotter (30) was demonstrating rappel and belay techniques to two friends and was explaining the importance of mainta...
Santa Cruz Norte, west face attempt; Pyramide de Garcilaso, east face attempt. Jay Burbee (Canada), Michel van der Spek (Netherlands), and I (Canada) spent June in the Cordillera Blanca, where we began with an attempt on the unclimbed west face of...
P 7500 +, Ruth Gorge. On July 14, Michael Rutter and I completed a first ascent on beautiful granite on P 7500+ (“Werewolf"). The top of this pinnacle lies 200 meters to the northwest of the number 29 on the D-2 Talkeetna quad. It is in the easter...
California, Yosemite National Park. On 21 August Peter Ullrich (17), and Allen Harris (15) and two skiers were attempting to scale 3rd and 4th class cliffs east of Tenaya Creek Bridge. Their companions turned back. Ullrich and Harris continued on ...
Several routes went up on Acopan Tepui, not all of which are reported here. In December, Polish climbers Boryslaw Szybinski, Maciej Dziedzic, and Michal Szeliga teamed with Venezuelan Cheo García to establish Lapa, Yuca y Kachiri (300m, 7 pitches,...
Tawoche Attempt. John Roskelley, Naoe Sakashita and I climbed to 18,000 feet to observe Tawoche’s east face. Alternating warmth and cold produced avalanches, running water and rockfall, a deterrent to insane behavior. We made no attempt on the fac...
La Esfinge, El Diente de la Esfinge. In March 2003 Boud Docter (Holland), Geoff Hall (Australia), and Dave Lucas (U.K.) established a five-pitch alternative start to Cruz del Sur. The variation starts to the right with a first-pitch 7a crux. It th...
Mount Hajdukovich, Delta Mountains, Alaska Range. Almost 22 years to the day of the first ascent, twin parties converged on the top of Mount Hajdukovich to achieve the second ascent of the north summit and the first of the slightly higher south pe...
On July 25 Carlos Cabaza (Spain) and Diego Fernández (Peru) climbed the rocky north ridge of unfrequented Cashan West as far as the upper snow crest. They approached through the Rajucolta Valley and established base camp on the 21st at 4,250m. ...
Annapurna Dakshin Attempt. The first Yugoslavian women’s Himalayan expedition hoped to climb the southwest ridge of Annapurna Dakshin (Annapurna South; 7219 meters, 23,683 feet), the 1982 Japanese route. Marija Frantar, leader, Nives Boršic, Maja ...
Peaks near Noshaq. Our expedition from Berchtesgaden was composed of Herbert Eglauer, Albert Steinbacher, Heini Brandner, Sepp Rasp, Roland Bannert, Manfred Hillebrand, Gerd Gsottschneider, Reiner Maier und Udo Blaes. On July 4 Hillebrand, Rasp an...
Pico Polaco, An Offer You Cant Refuse. On January 12, 2006, Scott Vanderplaats and I completed a new route on Pico Polaco (6,001m), in the central Argentine Andes. The route follows an obvious couloir up the northwest face, then summits via the no...
Hagshu Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Tadeusz Slupski, leader, Ms. Katarzyna Piróg, doctor, Pawel Józefowicz, Miecyslaw Zabomiak, Radoslaw Motrenko, Marek Glogoczowski, Pawel Szczepkowski and me. Base Camp was established on September 13 ...
Nanga Parbat Correction. On page 304 of A.A.J., 1984 we incorrectly stated that the 1976 ascent led by Hanns Schell was the sixth ascent of Nanga Parbat when it really was the fifth.
Fitz Roy, Tragedy in the Supercouloir. The United States-New Zealand Patagonian Expedition entered Argentina on October 22, after the Peruvian-Bolivian season, cruising in a yellow pick-up headed for Fitz Roy. We were intent on legendary Fitz Roy ...
Ulamertorssuaq, Tasermiut Fjord, South Greenland. An international expedition composed of Ben Masterson, Kurt Albert, Walter Obergolser, Stefan Glowacz, Hans Martin Götz, Dieter Langen and me climbed above Tasermiut Fjord in July. We made a new ro...
Washington, Mt. Rainier National Park—On August 4, Mr. Robert Berg (18) slid down a snowbank into morainal debris while descending to Nisqually Glacier to assist with rescue of Nicholas Peters (see above). Injuries consisted of lacerations of left...
Mount McKinley, Northwest Face of the West Buttress, Beauty is a Rare Thing. In June, Steve House soloed a line to the left of the Collins-Powers-Walters route on the northwest face of the west buttress of Denali. A full account of his story appea...
Tronador. A reconnaissance of this peak with a view to finding the best approach was made by the same party that climbed Lanin They forced a route up the Rio Tronador but found that one of the ridges which they had thought to be possible would be ...
Everest Attempt. The Iranian climber, Mischa Saleki, who lives in West Germany, is reported to have attempted Everest’s west ridge from the north and to have reached 7800 meters on May 26. [Previous reports from Saleki have often proved not to be ...