Asia, China, Siguniang

Publication Year: 1982.

Siguniang. After leaving Japan on July 5, we got to Base Camp on July 12 at 14,750 feet southwest of Siguniang despite bad weather. We established Camp I at 17,050 feet on July 16. On July 25 we climbed a couloir and established Camp II at 18,875 feet on the southeast ridge. On this part there was avalanche and rockfall danger. From Camp II to the summit we ascended the steep, narrow ridge. The south (main) and north peaks are nearly the same height. The main summit (6250 meters, 20,506 feet) was reached by Yoshiharu Suita and Hiroshi Sumiya on July 28, by Yoshifumi Takahashi and Takashi Iwata on July 29 and by Takafumi Miyazaki, Jun Tagawa and Shinichiro Kono on July 30. Miyazaki and Tagawa climbed two more hours and got to the north summit. Therefore all members, except for me, the leader, left their footprints on the top. We fixed about 6500 feet of rope. The university had sent an earlier group in April and May which got to 5620 meters (18,440 feet). All but two of the first group returned to Japan.

Tetsuji Kawada, Doshisha University Alpine Club, Japan