Peaks East of Head of Bute Inlet, Coast Range. Jerry Calbaum, Frank Slater, Nick Dodge, and I landed at Icewall Lake on August 8, after first making an airdrop on a small glacier 3½ miles to the southwest. Our objective was the unclimbed peaks sur...
British Columbia, Coast Range, Golden Ears. In June 1966, Leslie Evans and his son John (13) set out to climb the Golden Ears. Search began when they failed to return. The weather was bad and precise information on their objective was not availabl...
Nanga Parbat Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Walter Ruppert, leader, Lili Alfrid Ruppert, Walter Knezicek, Herbert Jesenko, Naz Gruber, Walter Snehotta, my brother Gerhard Neumayer and me. We attempted the 10,000-foot-high Diamir Face of N...
The World Among the Summits: The Julian Alps, by Jaka Cop. Ljubljana, Yugoslavia; Drzavna Zalozba Slovenije, 1962. 233 pages, 100 black and white illustrations. Price $5.00.The author is one of Slovenia’s best known climbers. He is 52 years of age...
P 6392 (Janam), Kishtwar Himal, Second Ascent. P 6392 (20,970 feet), locally called Janam, is located north of the Kiar Nalla. The first ascent was reported in A.A.J., 1978, page 612. Base Camp at the Sarbal meadows at 11,800 feet was reached on J...
Mt. Babel, east face; Mt. Louis, east face. Kevin Thaw and I arrived in the Canadian Rockies on August 1 with two weeks set aside for an alpine climbing holiday. It seemed that the weather was less unsettled on the more southerly peaks in the foot...
Peter Left. The first pitch is the left side of Tinker Bell at the base of El Capitan. The second is a 4-inch crack ending at the base of an extremely overhanging dihedral. The next pitch is one of the finest individual sections of climbing existi...
Hannes Schneider, the Austrian ski expert, has arrived in the United States, and is conducting classes at the Eastern Slope Inn, North Conway, N. H.
The most notable ascent of the otherwise quiet Canadian Rockies summer, despite a noteworthy succession of cloudless days, came in early August, when J Mills and Dana Ruddy slogged over Woolley Shoulder and sent the Lowe-Glidden on the north fac...
History of the Sierra Nevada by Francis P. Farquhar. Berkeley, University of California Press, 1965. 262 pages, 1 color plate, 48 other illustrations, 5 maps. $10.00.Who but Francis Farquhar could, or should, write the story of the range that hold...
Kangchenjunga Traverse. Our expedition was organized by Ryutaro Hashimoto and led by Katsuhiko Kano. It had 20 Japanese and three Nepalese climbers, 18 other Japanese including scientists and members of the media and 28 high-altitude porters. On F...
Thors Land, Queen Lilliana, first ascent. John Burcham, myself and brother Andy, together with Shinichi Sakamoto again visited the fjords near Thor’s Land north of Tassilaq in East Greenland. The 200-mile boat journey from Tassilaq needed two boat...
Saraghrar Group. Kohichiro Umezu and Shiro Yokoyama of Niigata University left Chitral on June 27 and via Shagram and Washish reached Base Camp (13,750 feet) in the Ziwar Gol on July 4, in the same place where the Italians had established theirs i...
Arwa Tower, First Ascent and Arwa Spire, First Attempt. From May 7-14, Britons Mick Fowler and Steve Sustad climbed the Northwest Face (VI 5b A3 Scottish V/VI, 1000m) of the Arwa Tower (6352m), making the first ascent of the peak in the process. A...
FALL ON SNOW-DISLODGED ROCK, FAILURE TO TEST HOLDS, POOR POSITION, CLIMBING UNROPED AND ALONEOregon, Mount Hood, South SideWhile ascending the Hogsback on Mount Hood’s South Side route on September 30, Patrick Marcuson (63) dislodged rotten rock, ...
Papsura or Fabsor. After crossing the Sara Umga pass from the Tos Nallah to establish Base Camp on May 28, Flight Officer A.K. Bhatta- charyya, Havildar Lopsang and G.S. Malia of a 10-man Indian Air Force expedition climbed Papsura or Fabsor (21,1...
Don Bosco, South Face. The very difficult south face of Don Bosco (2150 meters, 7054 feet) was finally climbed by Italians. The expedition was composed of Giuseppe Alippi, Benigno and Ugo Balatti, Oreste Lafranconi, Afredo Passini and Luciano Spad...
FALL ON ROCK, MISCOMMUNICATION Wisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkOn April 17, 1987, Richrd Kelso (21) was climbing on East Bluff when he decided he wanted to be lowered. His belayer thought he had said, “Off belay.” Kelso fell, and his belayer was...
Gasherbrum II, Ski Descent. Our expedition was composed of French skiers and climbers Christian Muller, Christiane Drieux, François Labande, Dr. Dominique Dock, Patrice Bournat and me as leader and Swiss Wim Pasquier. We reached Base Camp at 5250 ...
Huascarán. In one of the commercially organized trips of Bepe Tenti, seven Italians, Romeo Colombo, Giancarlo Corbellini, Carlo Del Dot, Antonio Foi, Lodovico Gaetani, Giuse Locana and Francesco Maragnoli, and the Pervuvians Emilio and Macario Ang...