Various activity. In late May I completed my long-term project of linking The Free Nose (V+ 5.12) and Tague Yer Time (V+ 5.12), all free, in a day, leading every pitch. I began with The Free Nose and finished with Tague Yer Time, completing the li...
FALLING ROCKAlberta, Mount Yamnuska, BelfryOn May 23, a climber fell 15 meters and broke both legs while attempting Belfry on Mount Yamnuska. He was with his climbing partner when a ledge broke beneath him and he fell. N.B. called for help and wai...
Chamar Attempt and Tragedy, Sringi Himal. A joint expedition of seven Japanese and three Nepalese led by Yoshiharu Miyashiro attempted the east or northeast ridge of Chamar (7177 meters, 23,580 feet), the route successfully climbed by New Zealande...
Manaslu. A 10-member Austrian expedition led by Arthur Haid climbed Manaslu by the normal northeast-face route. On October 7, from Camp IV Johann Etschmayer, Walter Hauser and Sonam Lhakpa Sherpa reached the summit.Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Clu...
Kiukiurtliu, West Face, New Route. On the right side of Kiukiurtliu's west face, a Saint Petersburg team led by Andrey Andreev and comprising Igor Potankin, Kirsanov Dmitry, and Krivitskiy Alexey established a new route (Russian grade 6B, approxim...
Mount Sanford, Wrangell Range. On August 8 Randy Hargesheimer, Rich Swenson, Jean Borrett and I crossed the Copper River by raft and began the hike to Mount Sanford (16,237 feet). Our route followed Boulder Creek and Sheep Glacier to a point on th...
FALL ON ROCK, WASPS New York, ShawangunksOn July 27, 1986, a man (21) fell ten meters from Ursula (5.5) in wet conditions while being attacked by wasps. He suffered a compound fracture of one ankle, lacerations, and a possible head injury. (Source...
Changtse, Illegal Ascent to Northeast Summit. Early in the Everest expedition I suffered an attack of high-altitude sickness and returned to Base Camp. Despite a rapid recovery, our doctor recommended that I not go high again. Having disregarded t...
Guide to the Colorado Mountains, edited by Robert M. Ormes. 188 pages, 32 maps, 34 illustrations, 6 in color. Denver: Sage Books, Inc., 1952. Price, $3.50.This is a joint endeavor in which Mr. Ormes and the Guide Book Committee of the Colorado Mou...
Eiger. A full article on the remarkable solo climb of the north face of the Eiger in winter by Jeff Lowe appears earlier in this Journal. It should be noted that Lowe’s good friend, Catherine Destivelle, made the first female solo winter ascent in...
YOUTH, RAPID ASCENT, ACUTE MOUNTAIN SICKNESS California, White MountainsOn August 2, 1988, William R. Claybaugh, II (39), Martha G. Miller (36) and William R. Claybaugh, III (2) made a six hour automobile ascent from sea level to a campsite at 280...
Flugbild der Schweiz, by Emil Egli, Peter Meyer, Walter Corti, and Eduard Imhof. Large 4to; 52 pages of text with 200 full- page plates by Swissair. Zürich: Munich-Verlag, 1949. Price Sw. Fr. 49.90.This book continues the tradition of Mittelholzer...
Paine Chico, Eol. I first saw the west face of Paine Chico (also called Cerro Almirante Nieto’s west summit) in late 2002, when I was climbing on the east side of the Torres. I was surprised that there were no routes I knew of on the awesome-looki...
Washington—Denny Peak: On July 27, 1952 David Ward (23) a Boeing Airplane Co. tooling engineer was out alone pursuing his avocation of Geology on the west side of Denny Peak. Venturing out on a corniced snow finger to reach the rock of the borderi...
Chacraraju Este Attempts. On July 18, Slovenes Pavle Kozjek and Gregor Kresal tackled the unclimbed east face of Chacraraju Este. The conditions were bad and so they were forced to bivouac after 500 meters. The next day, they climbed another 200 m...
YearNumber of Accidents Reported USA-CAN.Total Number of Persons Involved USA-CAN.InjuredUSA-CAN.KilledUSA-CAN.195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942–256–231–019–2196047–464–1237–819–419...
Everest, Southwest Face, Winter Attempt, 1991-2. Sixteen Japanese climbers with 25 Sherpas to help them were led by Kuniaki Yagihara. Their goal was to make the first winter ascent of the formidable southwest face, which had previously been ascend...
Korzhenievskovo Valley, Various Ascents. From July 2 to August 22, Rowland Barker, Steven Carter, Hamish Downer, Mark Stevenson and I visited the Korzhenievskovo Valley in southern Kyrgyzstan. We attempted ten peaks and reached the summit of seven...
Southwestern Mountaineers. During 1957, the Southwestern Mountaineers carried out a program of intensive rock climbing in the Organ Mountains of New Mexico. While most of the major peaks had been climbed already, many new routes were pioneered and...
Aconcagua. Four instructors of ski school at Portillo, the Austrians H. Helmstreit, E. Marbreiter and H. Podlipnik, and the American T. Lane, made a winter ascent of Aconcagua, on Sept. 29. They found very little snow and were not able to use thei...