DENALI NATIONAL PARK AND PRESERVE 1985 MOUNTAINEERING SUMMARYMount McKinleyExpeditionsClimbersSuccessful ClimbersWest Buttress104311153West Buttress (Guided)25200116Muldrow Glacier6159Muldrow Glacier (Guided)22619West Rib14355West Rib (Guided)2131...
Chiwawa Mountain, Intravenous. Inspired by John Scurlock’s photos of the northwest face, Dave Burdick and I snowmobiled and skied almost 30 miles up the Chiwawa River valley on March 5, 2005, to a bivy below the south side of Chiwawa Mountain. On ...
AVALANCHE, FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING ALONEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount CirrusA solo climber (27) was ascending the Polar Circus ice climb on Mount Cirrus on February 5, 1982. He had successfully climbed the first two falls and was crossing a small ...
Three Fingers, North Peak, Northeast Face. On February 3, 2007, John Frieh and I climbed a new route (IV WI4+ M3) on the northeast face of Three Fingers. We approached up the Squire Creek valley to the basin under the east face in early morning. A...
Yosemite Climbs: Free Climbs. Don Reid. Chockstone Press, Evergreen, Colorado, 1994. 413 pages, black-and-white photos, maps and topos. $25.00.Comment: The second installment in the series is just as thick as the entire 1987 edition, which had bot...
Shishapangma, Attempt and Tragedy. An expedition from the Ukraine led by Ivan Valenya planned to make ascents of Cho Oyu and Shishapangma but owing to organization difficulties got stuck in Kathmandu for 21 days and started climbing Shishapangma b...
Paine Grande, East Face, 1984. South Africans John and Hilton Davies and Chris Lomax climbed the east face of Paine Grande, which they found to be very avalanche prone. They reached the summit on December 9, 1984 after a final push of 4½ days in v...
Chilean Patagonia, Overview. The weather in Chilean Patagonia was terrible from November to February. March was very good from the first to the 16th. Climbing activity in Paine National Park was down in general—perhaps 50% less than in the last th...
Kumbhakarna, North Face. Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition consisted of Ger Friele, Edmond Öfner, Ferry van Wilgenburg, Rudolf de Koning, Dr. Ingo Doomenbal and me as leader. With 55 porters we set out from Hille on September 5. Base Camp was at ...
Milne Land, probable first ascents. Between May 8-16 David Cook and Simon Turner, guided by me, climbed seven peaks on Milne Land. We were taken to the island from Constable Point by Skidoo, across the sea ice of Scoresby Sund, but had to be helic...
FALL ON ROCK-DISLODGED ROCK, WEATHERColorado, Snowmass MountainThey’d waited a year to take another stab at summiting Snowmass Mountain after weather forced them to turn back last summer. On Saturday, two climbing buddies finally reached their goa...
North Palisade, “Es lässt sich nicht lesen."” The day after climbing the previous two routes, Cameron Bums and I attempted to climb the west-face route on this peak. Unfortunately, we got lost trying to follow the description in the guidebook. We ...
TABLE I Reported Mountaineering AccidentsYearNumber of Accidents Reported USA-CAN.Total Number of Persons Involved USA-CAN.InjuredUSA-CAN.KilledUSA-CAN.19511421103195229321713195324271412195432423181955343926619564671511319574553281819583238221119...
STRANDED–RAPPEL ANCHOR FAILUREColorado, Capitol PeakIn June, Kevin Smith (32) was rappelling with a partner on Capitol Peak, a 14,000 foot peak with a Grade IV 5.9 North Face route and a classic “knife- edged” hiking route about 14 miles west of A...
Cerro Taruj Umaña, East Face and Other Climbs, Araca Group, Cordillera Quimsa Cruz. Our Swiss expedition was composed of Hanspeter Bricher, Gian-Andri Tannò and me. We placed Base Camp in the eastern fork of the Taruj Umana valley at the same spot...
Alaska, Mt. McKinley. A party of six was attempting the West Buttress route and were at the 17,200 foot level on the night of 16 June. Gary Cole (32), vomited several times that night. He with one companion was left in a snow cave, while the other...
LOSS OF CONTROL–RAPPEL, NO BELAY, NO HARD HAT, INEXPERIENCE North Carolina, Table RockOn August 16,1986, a father and two sons were top-roping and rappelling at a popular training area. Their equipment was a few carabiners and some Goldline rope. ...
Gasherbrum I, II and K2. We established Base Camp at the foot of the Gasherbrums on June 1. The weather was very unstable and there was much snow. We placed an Advance camp at 5900 meters between Gasherbrum I and II. On June 15 Benoît Chamoux and ...
Mt. Bryce. On July 23, 1955, Richard Irvin and Fred Ayres made the third ascent of the main peak of Mt. Bryce. Our route was via the south glacier and southeast face, the same as that used in 1937 by the second- ascent party consisting of Lillian ...
Middle Teton, Northeast Face. A new route on this face, involving some 500 feet of roped climbing, was made by Roger Briggs and Art Higbee on July 8. Three hundred feet of snow and easy rock from the Lower Saddle took them to a large ledge about 7...